[DISAPPOINTMENT] New build, overheating & memory problems

[AdayaB]

Firstly, after almost 7 years, decided to go head in on a full blown new build to replace my

Core-I7-950
EVGA X58 Classified 3
EVGA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980
G.Skill 24GB DDR3-1833MHz
12TB of HDD Space
Dual 28" ASUS 3D 144Hz, 4K Monitors
1000W Thermaltake PSU Gold Rated

for

AMD ThreadRipper 1950X
ASUS ROG Zenith Extreme X399
MSI AMD Radeon RX Vega 64
G.Skill 32GB DDR4-3200Mhz
2x1TB Samsung 960 PRO NVMe
Single 49" Samsung CHG90 144Hz QLED
Seasonic 1000W Titanium PSU

and this new AMD has been a complete f!@#ing disaster, a disappointment and money not well spent. So from the start, originally had order a Corsair H115I AIO Cooler for the CPU and G.Skill TridentZ RGB Memory, the memory would not post under any configuration, and i do mean any, from single slot tries in every slot to different dimms placed in various MB spec orders. So sent the TridentZ back (ruined my RGB theme) for G.Skill HyperX memory which was suppose to be compatible with Ryzen chips. well yeh, got it to post after reversing how the slot was configured, but not to the MB Specifications.

Before I get into the wealth of issues with the HyperX memory, when the system post, the tempature was insane on the CPU 63-71C, did everything trying to see if maybe the CPU install was bad, nope everything looks proper, than thought maybe the H115I was bad, so sent that back for a refund, and went with an EKWB Water Cooling solution. Hrm...Nope, system still booting with 63C~ Okay, so run through the OS install process, thinking maybe the cpu-monitor is just wonky etc, install steam with some games, launch 3dmark, BAM! system shutdowns with the LED on the MB stating CPU Temp etc. Okay

Booted back in, downloaded the latest bios 0503, oh hey the CPU temp dropped to something reasonable 32C~-43C, but notice the s#$! sparaticuly jumps around in all types of temparture ranges...weird, but more stable before, attempt to set the memory to correct timing from auto etc, 14-14-14-34-3200Mhz DOCP, boot back into OS, seems okay, input devices are wonky. crank into my favorite game (Dota 2), within 5m, my system shutdowns, repeat this everytime.

Now mind you, this buld is in the $6500~ range, and I am beyond mad and pissed off with this. Right now, every indication of problems point to this motherboard. I am in complete utter disgust, that paying $549 for an ASUS ROG Zenith Extreme has been my bane for this entire project. right now I have a $6500~ unusable piece of crap because my tempartures are wonky and memory is just not function properly.

Is this just a one off extreme issue with power capacitors or is this even more wide spread?

[Pwnologist]

Maybe there is still some packaging plastic on the base of your CPU water block? Seems simple but I've seen it happen before

[vsimone67]

I have a thermaltake 360 mounted in the front of my case. Right now my temp is 26.6 in Rysen master. I am overclocked to 4ghz and docp ram to 3200. I do have my voltage on auto instead of 1.35 so I get the 4 ghz when the cpu's are in use. I ran benchmarks where I pegged the CPU for 15 minutes and the highest temp reported was 55.5

I am on bios 0503, the one thing to add is I have a push/pull configuration (I bought originally more rgb fans and had to use them ;)). In the front, two 140's in the front of the rad and 3 120 on the back. The reason why I chose to mount the rad on the front was a saw a video that it is 10 C cooler to mount it to the front then the top when you have a video card that has fans and exhausts into the case instead of one that exhausts from the back. Which makes sense because you are cooling the rad with clean air from the room instead of warm air from the case.

[Saturn7]

Use bios 9960.

Remember to press the clear CMOS button on the back after updating the bios.

[AdayaB]

I'm done. as you see from the pictures, redid the loop system, cleared the thermal paste, drew an X with some new paste, refitted the tubing for no kinks, and bam! still temperature problems. reset bios defaults etc etc. going to RMA and try a new board.

[Ljugtomten]

AdayaB wrote:
I'm done. as you see from the pictures, redid the loop system, cleared the thermal paste, drew an X with some new paste, refitted the tubing for no kinks, and bam! still temperature problems. reset bios defaults etc etc. going to RMA and try a new board.

Looking at your pictures and then looking at EKWB own page, you can see that the inlet for the waterblock is on the far corner of the EKWB logo:



What I'm assuming is your reservoir and pump, is either pumping water in the wrong direction, or first to the radiator and then into CPU--> Pump?

[thesmokingman]

Ljugtomten wrote:
Looking at your pictures and then looking at EKWB own page, you can see that the inlet for the waterblock is on the far corner of the EKWB logo:



What I'm assuming is your reservoir and pump, is either pumping water in the wrong direction, or first to the radiator and then into CPU--> Pump?

Yea, inlet is at the top of the block, ie. at the side of the two screws closer together. If OP's block is plumbed incorrectly, it defeats the the jet plate but it's hard to tell. That said the board/bios could still be the issue. Each bios seems to affect temp readings differently.

[gupsterg]

AdayaB wrote:
It's not the waterblock thermal pasting issue, as the original corsair h115i that as on here had the same temperture issue. that screenshot isn't a constant, it's just a random spike, as I've stated earlier it ranges between 45C-6x~ depending on whats going on. Fortunately there's some angler G1/4 coming to fix those kinks to ensure proper waterflow. If an BIOS update stablized the system tempertures to some degree, its not some residue issue.

Also EKWB is the only one offering a TR waterblock, and I highly doubt EKWB is crap. My two cents

In your image of interior, the hose from pump/res outflow to rad is kinked slightly, the hose on the lower rad port not seen in image must be even more kinked, so your flow rate to the CPU block must be pants. IMO your probably also placing extra load on the pump due to the kinks creating resistance of water flow.

Perhaps remove the PSU from case and use it placed close to case whilst waiting for fittings. If you orientate the ports of rad towards rear of PC case is there any restriction allowing hose not to be fitted to ports? then you could place your PSU back in case without kinking hose.

I use 2x MagiCool G2 Slim 360mm rads. Loop flow is pump/res > GPU block > CPU Block > Top rad > Front rad > pump/res. I have a water temp sensor on inlet of top rad to measure warmed water temp. I have water temp sensor on outlet of front rad to measure cooled water. These are cheap/thin rads, I use the cheapest fans at present Arctic Cooling F12.

Here is temp result of CPU stock but RAM 3466MHz The Stilt preset, link. I use CHA_FAN1 for fans on top rad, 4 in 1 cable powering fans via molex, then I set in UEFI for then to use T_Sensor1 which is the warmed water temp sensor. I use CHA_FAN2 for fans on front rad, again 4 in 1 cable and UEFI set to use T_Sensor1. I use H_AMP_FAN for PWM to the water pump, it's powered by molex and again I set UEFI to use T_Sensor1. So IMO it's pretty easy to use the headers to control fans/pump based on water temp.

The CPU sensor in HWiNFO under Asus Zenith Extreme has some odd skewing going on. I trust the tCTL and tDIE temps as I have Sense MI Skew set as disabled in UEFI, this makes temp readings as AMD AGESA should be without any skewing from ODM UEFI mods.

This is photo of interior of my setup, still need to do a bit of tidying. I will be replacing the hose from front rad to pump/res with a shorter one once a 90 degree fitting arrives. I have all panels on my Dark Base 900 but I have modified front panel to have mesh mod, link.

I use the EKWB TR block, I opted to spread the TIM using a card on IHS, like I always have done on any CPU. Link to image/post on OCN. Did you tighten the block screws fully down?

[gupsterg]

AdayaB loop from all images seems like this:-

EK XRES 100 Revo D5 outlet to rad port, rad port to EK TR block inlet, EK TR block outlet to EK XRES 100 Revo D5 inlet.

AdayaB would you mind posting a HWiNFO screenshot?

On Extreme Tweaker page of UEFI, within Tweakers Paradise is a setting Sense MI Skew, change that from [Auto] to [Disabled]. Then please show the 2 sets of tCTL and tDIE data, I don't use RM as was useless on Ryzen IMO.

Personally I think doing TIM spread by card is best method on TR, the IHS is huge.

[AdayaB]

replacement motherboard finally got here, order different ram this time (corsair vengeance 32gb white led) and a backup heatsink for testing, notcua.
ATTACH=CONFIG]67845[/ATTACH]
it seems without any bios update, the motherboard is completely unstable temperature wise. after updating to 0701, temperature dropped to 36c~ on air right now. currently doing a full memtest/stress test to ensure durability. going to attempt to reinstall the water loop system, someone told me the pump simply may not be strong enough to circulate the water well, which could be causing problems. the loop is a standard in>out>in>out>in>out configuration.

only other problem, I'm guessing due to the PCI-E riser, the TDP of the Radeon RX Vega 64 is too much, causing the monitor to dim out when under load. this does not happen with the monitor connected to my other system running a GTX 980.

[edit] FYI, Memory is Corsair Vengeance LED 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3200 (PC4-25600) C16 for DDR4 Systems - White LED PC Memory (CMU32GX4M4C3200C16) clocked @3200Mhz, Bios DIMM AB/VB Set to 1.375 to get 1.350v with 16-18-18-36 timings

[nycgtr]

AdayaB wrote:
replacement motherboard finally got here, order different ram this time (corsair vengeance 32gb white led) and a backup heatsink for testing, notcua.
ATTACH=CONFIG]67845[/ATTACH]
it seems without any bios update, the motherboard is completely unstable temperature wise. after updating to 0701, temperature dropped to 36c~ on air right now. currently doing a full memtest/stress test to ensure durability. going to attempt to reinstall the water loop system, someone told me the pump simply may not be strong enough to circulate the water well, which could be causing problems. the loop is a standard in>out>in>out>in>out configuration.

only other problem, I'm guessing due to the PCI-E riser, the TDP of the Radeon RX Vega 64 is too much, causing the monitor to dim out when under load. this does not happen with the monitor connected to my other system running a GTX 980.

[edit] FYI, Memory is Corsair Vengeance LED 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3200 (PC4-25600) C16 for DDR4 Systems - White LED PC Memory (CMU32GX4M4C3200C16) clocked @3200Mhz, Bios DIMM AB/VB Set to 1.375 to get 1.350v with 16-18-18-36 timings

First thing I noticed looking at the first picture of this thread is your IN and OUT are reversed. That alone is your temperature problem.