PC Specs:
CPU:
Intel Core i7 8770K, Socket H4 (LGA1151), Coffee Lake-S, 6 Core, 12 Thread, 3.7GHz (5.0Ghz All Core OC), 4.7GHz Turbo, 8 GT/s Bus, 12MB Cache, 1200MHz GPU, 95W, 14 nm – BX80684I78700K
Cooler:
Corsair Hydro H100 Liquid CPU Cooler, 240 mm Radiator, 2×120 mm PWM Fans
Motherboard:
Asus ROG Maximus X Hero, Intel Z370, Socket H4 (LGA1151), DDR4, 2×M.2 Socket 3. 6×SATA 6Gb/s, Raid 0, 1, 5, 10, 2 × PCIe 3 ×16 (×16 or dual ×8), 1×PCIe 3 ×16 (×4 mode), 3×PCIe 3/2 ×1, HDMI/DisplayPort 1.2
Memory:
32GB (2 × 16GB) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 PC4-24000 (3000MHz) C16 – CMK32GX4M2D3000C16
Graphics Card:
EVGA GeForce RTX 3080Ti FTW3 Ultra Gaming, 12GB GDDR6X, iCX3 – 12G-P5-3967-KR
Storage:
M2 NVMe: (2 slots available, 1 used)[/spoiler]
SSD: (2TB Total)
2TB – WD Black SN750 – M2 NVMe – C: 64GB Win 10 Pro v20H2 + 😧 1.71 TB Latest Installed Games (currently playing get moved here)
SATA 3: (6 slots available, 6 used)
SSD: (1.75TB Total)
1TB – Samsung 850 Pro – I: Games and Programs
512GB – Samsung 840 Pro – K: Newer Installed Games
256GB – OCZ Vertex 4 – J: App Data + Program Data + User Folders
HDD: (22TB Total)
8TB – Seagate Barracuda – E: Game Data
8TB – Seagate Barracuda – F: Other Installed Games (ready to play anyrtime)
6TB – WD Black – G: Modding Data
PSU:
1200W Corsair Professional Series AX1200 Full Modular, 80 PLUS Gold - 90% Eff', EPS – CMPSU-1200AXUK
Case:
Corsair Obsidian Series 650D All Black Mid Tower Case with SATA Dock and Side Window – CC650DW-1
Monitor(s): Three of these (Now using two of these, still have 3rd as a backup, only central "Gaming" monitor is upgraded
Dell U2711 A12 – 27 Inch Widescreen IPS, 2560×1440, HDMI, 2×DVI-D, Display Port, 5 × USB, 8-in-1 Reader
Now Upgraded:
ASUS ROG Swift PG329Q Gaming Monitor – 32 Inch WQHD (2560 × 1440), Fast IPS, 175Hz*, 1ms (GTG), Extreme Low Motion Blur Sync, G-SYNC Compatible, DisplayHDR 600
Sound Card:
ASUS Xonar D2X Ultra Fidelity 7.1 Hi-Def PCI-Express Dolby/DTS
Headphones:
Audio-Technica ATH-M50X Studio Monitor Professional Headphones - Black
No facility for Spoiler tags here, so you get a Cut&Paste of my Spec reminder text, though I've deleted most of the original 2013 components, some
Case, Sound Card, and 2 SSDs remain from that build.
Even so I suspect my issues are Motherboard, or RGB related, from purchase, but only really noticed by me since Nov 2021.
I've used a Master Plug controlled extension based Turn off system ever since I first got this PC if not longer, it worked great.
I'd switch off my PC in Windows, and all Peripherals attached to that surge protected extension, switched off within a second of the PC shutting down.
My old EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2, had no RGB crap, I wanted, and I never noticed this issue, but suspect now it's existed since I bought the Mobo:
Purchase Date: 2018/10/04
Since I upgraded my GPU to the EVGA RTX 3080Ti FTW3, and started using the only useful RGB feature, Temperature indication, I've noticed the problem.
My PC doesn't shut Down via Windows, or front Case switch at all, Windows shuts down just fine, but PC remains on, and thus All peripherals are fully on or in Standby mode, wasting my expensive electricity.
OK, turn off at rear of PC, and while it works it's only after 10 seconds or so that the RGB stops drawing power, by draining Capacitors I assume.
This is way to slow to trigger the Master Plug though, and the monitors (Main culprits with old Dells having power hungry standby) are why I got the plug.
The Master Plug turns the monitors, and other peripherals with separate power supplies on/off with my PC.
So the system in practice has acted as zero power use standby controlled by windows shut down, it's ideal, or was.
So I need a solution, and I'm not convinced the RGB is actually the problem, since last night I remembered to turn off the back Power button on the case, to no effect. I'd like to keep the RGB on for Temp indication, but can live without it, if the 10 second shutdown goes away with it.
Not actually tried doing that yet, as it's a last resort solution, and if capacitors must be drained before mobo shuts down, why would RGB off even change that.
Hence making this post to see if anybody else uses such Master Plug extensions, mine was one of the first models available, as I'm a great believer in if it still works, it's worth keeping, but maybe newer ones can even cope with this no/slow power off issue.
