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High CPU Temps and crashing when OC'd

aceisme
Level 10
Since I've updated to BIOS 3504 (from BIOS 1302) and the ME Driver to the latest Version 11.7.0.1040 my CPU temps are extremely high and after the latest MS updates I can't even OC my CPU. Used to run smooth at 4.6GHz and 1.240V and temps would barely touch 60C under load on BIOS 1302. Now on BIOS 3504 and the new ME firmware, with CPU at stock, it idles in the 50's even in BIOS window.
All these new updates coming from ASUS and MS have completely stuffed up my stable PC. Anyone know how I could revert everything back to BIOS 1302 and older ME firmware? With all the issues I'm having, I really don't care about Spectre anymore.

OS: WIN10 Enterprise Build 16299
Motherboard: MH8 / BIOS 3504
CPU: 6700K
Cooler: Corsair H110i
RAM: 16GB Trident Z 3200MHz
M.2: Samsung 950Pro (512GB)
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14 REPLIES 14

aceisme wrote:
one tube is quite warm while the other tube is cold.


This was my prediction from above...This is a sure sign the cooler is failed...there should be no appreciable difference between inlet and outlet...

Just because the pump is spinning doesn't mean it's pumping anything.

aceisme
Level 10
I don't quite follow your logic. If one side is warm and the other is cold it's telling me that the cooler does its job as it's supposed to. Pump hot coolant from CPU to the radiator, the radiator cools it down and brings it back cold to the CPU. What am I missing here? One side of the tubing should be hot while the other should be cold.

aceisme wrote:
What am I missing here?


Quite a lot actually 😛 half of the things I post to start and then an understanding of how a cooling loop works.

cold water from the radiator to block where it is heated and goes off to radiator where it is chilled, is not how it works.

Water from radiator is heated very slightly passing through block at good flow rate and returned to radiator where it is cooled slightly. This loop slowly warms to reach an equilibrium temperature with the ambient temperature of the air in your case/room/universe. Therefore, there should be no (to hand touch) discernible difference between one side of the block and the other...EXCEPT WHEN THERE IS LOW FLOW...i.e. something is not working...pump...blockage in loop...

Now, it is impossible for me, from here, to diagnose your problems...but from everything you tell me your cooling loop is defective. I can't really do much more here...

Arne Saknussemm wrote:
Quite a lot actually 😛 QUOTE]

Thanks for your explanation. It turns out you were correct. The cooler was starting to play up. Got a new one (RMA) and now everything is back to normal.

Cheers.

Arne_Saknussemm
Level 40
Sorry, :o...maybe the post was a bit harsh but I just really wanted to save your rig in case there was a leak etc.

Real glad you got it sorted! 😄