Why does my computer randomly not POST?

[JOSHSKORN]

I've had this random problem for years it seems like, but once in awhile, and well, it's been happening moreso lately than other times, my computer will not post. Other times, I'll hear two beeps upon start up. The first beep is what's exacted and the other beep is a completely different tone, much higher pitched.

When my computer doesn't post, I use the Reset CMOS button in the back, put my BIOS settings back to default, restore what settings I need (basically M.2, Booting from PCIe for WOL and enabling virtualization). I otherwise do not have any overclocking settings.

I recently swapped out my RAM, and the problem did not go away, nor did it get worse. So, I doubt that's the culprit. My PC is connected to my monitor via DisplayPort. Don't know if there's some sort of compatibility issue there or not. I tend to think (but am not sure) that my computer will not POST under certain weather conditions. I'm in Southern California, not in the mountains. Weather isn't crazy here and my bedroom is usually kept in the mid to latter 70s degree temperature range.

Any thoughts as to why I've seemingly had this problem?

[PipJones]

When it hangs, what's on the Q code? The LCD screen on the motherboard.

What USB devices do you have connected? See this thread, it sounds familiar. I think we are making progress too.
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?121005-RVE-Edition-10-issue-after-issue-new-one-is-system-...

What are your boot options in the BIOS? Try disabling Fast Boot.

What are your CSM options in the BIOS? Enabled or Disabled?

What are your Windows settings for Fast boot?

[JOSHSKORN]

I'm thinking I should observe the QR codes on my motherboard on good boots vs bad boots. I had another bad boot this morning. I don't get how I can go several days and be just fine and then all the sudden it's like every other time or every time I boot my machine. There's absolutely zero difference as to what I'd have plugged in each time which kind of leads me to believe it's climate related, but I'll look at that link right now. I can tell when my computer actually will post because when I press the power button, I hear the computer starting up each time, and when it's about to post, it sounds like my fans will slow down, then it'll post and then the fan speed seemingly goes back up to normal. I have no performance tweaks in my BIOS, other than what I mentioned: Boot to M.2, Enabling Virtual VT and enabled PCIE-e devices for startup (for WOL).

EDIT: @PipJones are you implying that I should purchase a PCI to USB 3.1 card, a cable and a 10 port USB 3.0 hub and see if my results differ and my computer finally boots up consistently? I'm still waiting for the other guy on that thread to see if it has worked for him. Such a waste though since we've all got a bazillion USB 3.0 ports on this motherboard and you're saying they're defective and cause power issues? I guess to a point, I can understand that since USB 3.0 didn't have proper shielding to begin with.

[PipJones]

QR Codes: Yes, definitely. The QR codes will really help us find out what is going on.

They are all listed in manual, they will tell you what part of the boot process it is stuck on. From cold boot you should end up with AA. If you are using "fast boot" you will get a different code. This will change to "AA" when you restart, explicitly the "Restart" from windows option.


Buying: If you don't mind spending the money to have a go, yes, why not!?!

Go for the exact same ones if you can? This would add weight to the theory and/or fix that more people could use.

I picked that Sonnet USB card based on a Linus video where he analysed different USB3.0 addon cards. The Sonnet cards were the safe but more expensive option. Something to do with individually powered ports. I picked the USB C variant because I believed it was more modern and would carry more power.

It also got bonus points from me because it did not require additional power.



How similar is your setup? We (Me and OP) are both using steering wheel / pedals. I am using VR.


I've had no end of trouble with my USB's, VR, steering wheel and LCD screen (for AIDA). Popping in and out, thinking they are USB2.0. Real pain.

These issues have gone away since I:

Bought the card,
Bought the hubs
Bought the USB-C to USB 3 cables for the hubs
plugged everything into the hub apart from
- mouse
- keyboard
- Corsair USB headset
- LCD panel
Stopped using fast boot
Set my BIOS as per earlier posts
Oh, and, finally, disabled all USB ports and controllers that I'm not in the BIOS.

I can not say with 100% certainty which one of these things solved my issues, but, combined - my problems have not come back.

I'm being as honest as I can, I hope this helps.

Pip

[JOSHSKORN]

Off the top of my head, this is what I currently have plugged into the back of my machine. First, I'll list things I'd always had plugged in, and then I'll list things I've added. I can say with 100% certainty that I even had these issues before adding a few more USB devices.

• HDMI
  
• DisplayPort
  
• Ethernet (even changed the cable not too long ago because it didn't snap in and it still doesn't, there must be something wrong with the motherboard jack)
  
• (USB 2.0 backside port) G933 Headset dongle
  
• (USB 3.0 backport) 4-port USB 2.0 hub (not powered)
  
• (USB 2.0 port off of USB 2.0 Hub) Logitech Unifying Receiver (for keyboard & mouse, this device would not work properly when plugged into one of the USB 3.0 ports due to interference)
  
• (USB 2.0 port off of USB 2.0 Hub) Logitech Keyboard Charging Cable
  
• (USB 2.0 port off of USB 2.0 Hub) Logitech Mouse Charging Cable
  
• (USB 2.0 port off of USB 2.0 Hub) G933 Headset Charging Cable
  
• (Line-in jack, Back port) 1/4" to 3.5mm Adapter cable
  
• (USB 3.0 front port) USB to USB C phone charging cable for Samsung Galaxy Note 9, usually left unplugged.
  

I always keep the Logitech wireless devices plugged in because their batteries aren't very reliable, and I know that defeats the purpose of wireless.

Here are the rest of the things I have plugged in, to which I've added just this year. Note that my bootup problems were an issue PRIOR TO adding these devices and still are:

• 
  
• (USB 3.0 backport) Logitech c922 Webcam
  
• (USB 3.0 backport) USB desk fan
  
• (USB 3.0 backport) FURUI Capture card (HDMI to USB 3.0)
  
• (the three connectors in the back where the device pops in) The included Wi-fi/Bluetooth antenna.
  

I think in my particular case since the Ethernet connector is a little bit flakey, it might be in my best interest to look into an Ethernet to USB adapter and try that route. In the past when I've reset my CMOS battery, I would unplug everything, and actually recently I discovered that it works even with everything else still plugged in. Upon successful bootup after resetting my CMOS Battery, I would notice that I had no internet connection, and the culprit was always me not pushing in my Ethernet cable in completely. Again, it doesn't snap.

Come to think of it, I actually have zero actual USB 3.0 devices plugged into my machine.

That said, it would be nice to find a hub which includes both Ethernet and a line-in jack, or I'll end up having to buy USB adapters for those, as well. Ugh.

I'm wondering if the problem is strictly related to DisplayPort. I feel like that was a rumor thrown around awhile ago.

I'll start looking into the parts. One issue I have is that the PCI to USB device you listed is from a different Amazon site (I think off the top of my head Amazon UK?), I'm in the USA. Plus, there's only one picture so I can't get a clear idea as to which exact model this is. Hopefully, it doesn't get down to it but I might end up with one REALLY huge hub.

If it comes down to it, would I lose any performance if I decide to plug in both of my HDMI and DisplayPort connectors into USB 3.0 through an adapter? I haven't actually tried it but I'm wondering how that would even work with my GTX 980.

First thing is first, though...I'll start looking into the motherboard codes. I booted up just fine today. Imagine that. Might just be a fluke, but then again, so is not booting up successfully, except for this week, it's been consistent.

EDIT 10/25/20:

It happened again tonight. Didn't boot to Windows 10, no post, left it for 10 minutes and came back, tried to boot, THIS time it reset itself shortly after I pressed the power button, then it attempted to boot again and did not POST.

Linked to my Google drive below, are three videos and one image.

I tried looking some things up but nothing makes any sense to me, I bet it's one of the numbers that flicker in between.

Please excuse me sounding like Darth Vader. :rolleyes:

BootandRestartsItself (Does not post here)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T__mp7K9HdKi0Je2ZWT-gIPFoNyedTAE/view?usp=sharing

BootIntoWindowsAfterBIOSReset (video starts just before I save the BIOS settings)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PevXg_MHL9tLem2p8rwxrf18Cpj8Ay6M/view?usp=sharing


BootToBIOSAfterCMOSReset
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ktfU_nKI9Frv2ewSswbD96Q3WmdLVU2_/view?usp=sharing

MBCodeAfterBootingToWIndows10
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hdIOwbEa-QlBC0TM0mbWqLCnCarEtqzk/view?usp=sharing

EDIT: I have removed the videos from my Google drive.

[PipJones]

Hi!

Thanks for the very detailed post, it's this kind of detail that really helps.

I am not a qualified expert but I am very happy to share my thoughts and experiences.

I am not aware of any HDMI/DisplayPort (DP) issues. Don't change anything
I am not aware of any Ethernet port issues. Don't buy a USB ethernet adapter. If your port is flakey, buy a new Ethernet card, they're $20 at most.

That's a lot of USB devices, I am counting 9x. Some of them might be quite a high power draw? I'm no expert, but this this sounds a lot and I don't think our RVE's can cope.


The USB card I bought was to resolve VR issues. You're not using VR, so let's try this:



I would start with just the new powered USB hub. The hub that we are talking about is made by "ANKER", I believe they are a well respected brand.

"Anker 10 Port 60W Data Hub with 7 USB 3.0 Ports and 3 PowerIQ Charging Ports"

Link to Amazon for US: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerIQ-Charging-MacBook-Surface/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keyw...

Although it is 10x ports, 3x of them are for charging only (e.g. your phone and USB fan)

Leave the keyboard and mouse plugged into the rear ports on motherboard, the ones at the very top, like so (this is my machine):

https://photos.app.goo.gl/kZLBJraZePJH5kbh7

The keyboard and mouse are the red and grey USB connectors at the top of the shot.


Move everything else onto the new hub, make sure you put the fan and phone charger into the charging ports.

Plug the USB hub into a bank of USB ports just on it's own, isolate it.

Go into the BIOS and disable all other USB ports that are not in use. This is a painful job, sorry.


I hope that's covered everything? If you need anymore, please ask! Happy to help.




For reference, the Q codes when it did not boot:

https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/Rampage_V_Extreme/E9550_rampage_v_extreme_ug_WEB.pdf

Page 47 in the PDF. Asus refer to it as 1-29 at the bottom of the page. The Error code is "B1" (looks like b1). No real clue to what this means, I'll keep looking

[JOSHSKORN]

PipJones wrote:
Hi!

Thanks for the very detailed post, it's this kind of detail that really helps.

I am not a qualified expert but I am very happy to share my thoughts and experiences.

I am not aware of any HDMI/DisplayPort (DP) issues. Don't change anything
I am not aware of any Ethernet port issues. Don't buy a USB ethernet adapter. If your port is flakey, buy a new Ethernet card, they're $20 at most.

That's a lot of USB devices, I am counting 9x. Some of them might be quite a high power draw? I'm no expert, but this this sounds a lot and I don't think our RVE's can cope.


The USB card I bought was to resolve VR issues. You're not using VR, so let's try this:



I would start with just the new powered USB hub. The hub that we are talking about is made by "ANKER", I believe they are a well respected brand.

"Anker 10 Port 60W Data Hub with 7 USB 3.0 Ports and 3 PowerIQ Charging Ports"

Link to Amazon for US: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerIQ-Charging-MacBook-Surface/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keyw...

Although it is 10x ports, 3x of them are for charging only (e.g. your phone and USB fan)

Leave the keyboard and mouse plugged into the rear ports on motherboard, the ones at the very top, like so (this is my machine):

https://photos.app.goo.gl/kZLBJraZePJH5kbh7

The keyboard and mouse are the red and grey USB connectors at the top of the shot.


Move everything else onto the new hub, make sure you put the fan and phone charger into the charging ports.

Plug the USB hub into a bank of USB ports just on it's own, isolate it.

Go into the BIOS and disable all other USB ports that are not in use. This is a painful job, sorry.


I hope that's covered everything? If you need anymore, please ask! Happy to help.




For reference, the Q codes when it did not boot:

https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/Rampage_V_Extreme/E9550_rampage_v_extreme_ug_WEB.pdf

Page 47 in the PDF. Asus refer to it as 1-29 at the bottom of the page. The Error code is "B1" (looks like b1). No real clue to what this means, I'll keep looking

Just a thought and I have no idea if this would be the culprit, I'm guessing not, but my G933s one day awhile back got stuck on a firmware version that would not install. I've read that there's a workaround to get it to stop doing that behavior but I've just been too lazy to do it. This wouldn't have any affect on my problem, would it? I'm guessing either no or doubtful at the very least.

Also, plugging my phone into the charging port, I don't think that'll work because I use my phone for file transfer or sometimes DeX on PC.

Would you think that it might be better to get a PCI to USB 3.1 card, get a hub for it and just shut off all of my USB 3.0 ports?

And by the way, I may have roughly 10 USB devices plugged in but remember, 4 of them are currently plugged into a USB 2.0 hub. Should I try to take this hub out of the mix and just plug them all into the USB switch you linked to?

Edit: Not sure if you did take the time to look at the videos I posted, but my computer has always had this one issue where I would hear two beeps upon bootup, both with distinct tones. I watched/listened to my videos through headphones and the beeps were audible.

Edit #2: I forgot, I cannot have my USB Unifying device plugged directly into the USB ports on my PC, due to interference. I'll have to get an extender cable, to which I'm sure I have it somewhere, as I've had to use one in the past.

[PipJones]

JOSHSKORN wrote:
Just a thought and I have no idea if this would be the culprit, I'm guessing not, but my G933s one day awhile back got stuck on a firmware version that would not install. I've read that there's a workaround to get it to stop doing that behavior but I've just been too lazy to do it. This wouldn't have any affect on my problem, would it? I'm guessing either no or doubtful at the very least.

Also, plugging my phone into the charging port, I don't think that'll work because I use my phone for file transfer or sometimes DeX on PC.

Would you think that it might be better to get a PCI to USB 3.1 card, get a hub for it and just shut off all of my USB 3.0 ports?

And by the way, I may have roughly 10 USB devices plugged in but remember, 4 of them are currently plugged into a USB 2.0 hub. Should I try to take this hub out of the mix and just plug them all into the USB switch you linked to?

Edit: Not sure if you did take the time to look at the videos I posted, but my computer has always had this one issue where I would hear two beeps upon bootup, both with distinct tones. I watched/listened to my videos through headphones and the beeps were audible.

Edit #2: I forgot, I cannot have my USB Unifying device plugged directly into the USB ports on my PC, due to interference. I'll have to get an extender cable, to which I'm sure I have it somewhere, as I've had to use one in the past.

Do you think you'll need 2x powered Anker hubs? Sorry, this is getting expensive!

Answering your questions:



G933: Firmware version. I doubt it, but, if it comes down to it, fix everything. At least it can then be ruled out.


Phone charging port: OK, sorry, didn't realise


PCI USB 3.1: It fixed my specific issues with VR. I would hold back until you have tested with hub(s) first. If you are in the mood, why not! I bought this one:

https://www.sonnettech.com/product/allegro-usbc-pcie.html

You will also need the USB-C to USB 3 cables that I talked about:

This looks like it will work.

https://www.amazon.com/JSAUX-Briaded-Compatible-Docking-External/dp/B082M16BQB/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&k...


Should I try to take this hub out of the mix and just plug them all into the USB switch you linked to: Yes, I think that would be a good idea. One less piece of kit to consider.


Shutting off USB ports and getting everything onto powered USB hubs: Yes, I think this is a key step in the process.


Videos: Yes, I watched them. You have strange things happening and I think it is related to the number of devices you have attached to USB. An interesting test would be to remove all devices apart from Keyboard and Mouse, see how you get on. I have deliberately not suggested this as our goal is to get you working with your devices. If you are happy to spend the money on buying the same kit, I'm happy to help!


Extender cables: OK. Might as well buy a couple of new ones too. We can then rule out old/bad/worn cables.


Beeps in headphones: I think this is normal. I think what you are hearing is the Windows device detect "beep bop" sound. I also get this in my headphones.

[JOSHSKORN]

You know what, I'm going to try this, first...

Considering that I have essentially five devices plugged in, two of which are not a necessity (the USB powered fan and the webcam), I'll just relocate my USB 2.0 4-port hub to the unused USB 2.0 back port. This will leave all of my USB 3.0 back ports open, therefore I can safely disable them. This would only leave my capture card as the only device that I would need, not plugged in, to which I can work around. I only bought that thing so I could plug my stereo receiver output into it rather than flipping monitor inputs all of the time, and actually multi-task better.

So what do I do if I come to the conclusion that this ends up working? Should I make my way through my USB 3.0 ports 1-by-1 to see if one in particular is problematic? Or is there a known issue where the USB 3.0 ports were problematic all along?

In the BIOS, forgive me, as I haven't actually looked, but is there an absolute way of telling which port is which so I know which ones to shut off or is it a complete guessing game? That would be seriously annoying if there was no easy way to tell. Ugh

Before I do anything, what do you think about a BIOS upgrade? Would that at all improve USB 3.0 stability? I'm on v3701. I've been hesitant in touching my BIOS version because it "works" and we all know how delicate upgrading BIOS can be, plus I've heard the latest BIOS (I think it's 4101?) causes a slower boot time. Just looking at the BIOS page, I'm noticing that 3801 fixes Logitech devices issue, I'm wondering if that could be related to my G933 issue. Basically, I'd been getting a popup to install to v. 98.3.27 for quite awhile now, as the installation process itself actually "works", but for whatever reason, it seems to not remember that it's installed and keeps popping up each time I boot and won't let me into the software to see what version it's currently on.

[PipJones]

I have no idea if the BIOS upgrade improves USB stability. I had to upgrade mine to resolve overclocking issues. Sounds like you are running stock settings? In that case, nope. Not worth it. I don't think there is any advantage for for your 5960.

The options in the BIOS relate to how the ports are identified in the manual, it's not that bad once you figure it out.

Yes, it sounds like it might be worth trying, go for it.

I have given up on my onboard ports and only use them as a last resort