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ROG Rampage V Ed.10 + 2 Strix 1080ti SLI + M.2 - Cannot even fresh install

montekristo75
Level 7
Hello.

I am trying to make the following setup (without any overclocking) to boot stable and without issues Windows 10 64 bit Pro:

Motherboard: Asus ROG Rampage V Edition 10
CPU: Intel i7 6850k
GPU(s): 2 x Asus Strix 1080ti
EVGA Pro SLI Bridge 80 mm HB (2-Way).
The two GPUs are placed in the suggested PCI 16 slots and the appropriate jumper in motherboard has been set for 2 way SLO.
RAM: 4 x 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws V DDR4
M.2 SSD: Samsung 960 Pro 512GB
SATA SSD: Samsung 850 Pro 1TB
Cooling: No CPU Fan. 2 x 360 radiators. Fans connected to the NZXT Grid + fan controller hub
PSU: Corsair HX 1200 Watt 80 Plus Platinum

I used a temporary CPU AIO cooler in order to cool the CPU.

The latest UEFI/BIOS version and drivers were installed.

I've setup the system with Windows 10 Pro from DVD and after a lot of updates and time, I managed to make the system boot from the M.2 SSD.
Then everything was disassembled in order to be water-cooled.

After successful leak-testing, the ignore CPU fan speed option has been setup in the bios in order to be able to continue booting and I fired up the system but...

- the M.2 was not recognized anymore as the booting device...
- Windows (?) is producing various kinds of blue screen errors (BAD POOL CALL, PFS LIST, IRQ LESS THAN OR EQUAL, TRYING TO WRITE IN READ ONLY MEMORY.. and others) and restarts the system itself
- Sometimes Windows gets in 'Preparing Automatic Repair' mode and -after 3-4 seconds in which M.2 seems to work- it freezes
- When I choose to boot from a Windows 10 USB everything freezes after 1-2 seconds
- I tried to boot from a Linux Khali USB but it was not possible to come to the point to use the OS even after selecting a 'safe mode'. Everything freezes

I tried the following with no obvious change/success:
- removed and installed again the M.2 and tried to boot without the M.2 installed
- changed the PSU cables to the stock ones from Corsair -in case the modded ones were causing less power to be distributed to the motherboard-

I am thinking of uninstalling the SSD and M.2 and formatting them through a different PC and then trying to install again windows from scratch.
But most probably is not a Windows problem...

Any suggestions as to how to proceed ? Because currently I cannot even make any new fresh install ! 😞

Looking forward for any help/suggestion you may provide.

best regards
Montekristo75
5,223 Views
12 REPLIES 12

Menthol
Level 14
What is the difference from when it worked and not work,
check your CPU water block mount, an uneven block mount or block over tightened can cause connection problems between the CPU and socket pins causing all kinds of issues

Menthol wrote:
What is the difference from when it worked and not work,
check your CPU water block mount, an uneven block mount or block over tightened can cause connection problems between the CPU and socket pins causing all kinds of issues


Thank you for your message.
I am using the EK Monoblock for the motherboard (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-r5-e10-monoblock-nickel)

The CPU, its temperatures and status are fully recognized and everything looks fine within UEFI
For some reason everything freezes after 2-3 seconds I try to boot from M.2 or any USB device (i.e. Windows USB)

Chino
Level 15
montekristo75 wrote:

The two GPUs are placed in the suggested PCI 16 slots and the appropriate jumper in motherboard has been set for 2 way SLO.

What jumper are you referring to?

montekristo75 wrote:

RAM: 4 x 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws V DDR4

Is that a single memory kit?

Hi.

Sorry, no 'jumper' but 'switch'. Wrong word...
The one that is in the bottom right of the motherboard and is referred on page 1-12 of the manual as 'SLI/CFX switch'.

There are 4 dimms of 16GB of exactly the same kind.

I have created a memtest86 usb and boot and test with it and only pass 1 completes and everything freezes with Pass:8% Test: 14% (Pass 1/4 Errors: 0) (this happens right after a first pass completes)

I have also played with all the possible combinations of the DRAM Lane switches and I get the same result and behaviour.

I also executed boot trace test that progressed for 31 steps and then froze, the last three steps were as follows:
CPU:0 Line: 561 Message: medt_thread
CPU:0 Line: 734 Message: smp_find13
CPU:0 Line: 235 Message: Boot APΘ

Memory is also water cooled and I am trying to see if there is anything meaningful that can be done in order to test/fix before I drain and disassemble the loop and start testing from scratch...


kind regards
montekristo75

That switch only indicates which PCIe slots to install your GPUs for maximum performance. You can disable it after you've installed them.

montekristo75 wrote:

There are 4 dimms of 16GB of exactly the same kind.

That doesn't answer my question though. Are you using a single memory kit? If so, what's the model of the kit?

Chino wrote:
That switch only indicates which PCIe slots to install your GPUs for maximum performance. You can disable it after you've installed them.


That doesn't answer my question. Are you using a single memory kit? If so, what's the model of the kit?


If you are suggesting that all sticks were bought in the same package the answer is no.
They are 4 16GB DDR4 memory sticks: G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200, Item model number: F4-3200C16S-16GVK

Nothing is overclocked and they seem to work fine during the test build without any water cooling/block has been installed.

I hope this answers the question.

Chino wrote:
Test your system with a single memory module.


I did not have any issues related with the memory in the test build that I did before installing the water cooling related components.

Anyway thank you very much for the support.

I will probably wait until the end of the weekend in case any other suggestion occurs and then start dis assembling and building and testing step by step...

kind regards
montekristo75

Chino wrote:
Test your system with a single memory module.


So I disassembled everything and started tested stick by stick in the suggested DIMM position.
The last DIMM had a problem. So after a while I booted on Windows 10 and continued to prepare the working environment while still inspecting for leaks...

After some hours I felt safe in terms of leaking and I shutdown through Windows 10.
First time that I did something like that... (it was always restarts and hardware based resets).

I close also the PSU for 4-5 minutes in order to move the PC to final position and when I fired up everything I am stuck with Q-Code: 00 and the 3rd from the top PCIEX16_SW Lane switch blinking and the 4th having no light at all.

It must be some sort of a curse...