Help! CPU's temperature gets hotter after every boot.

[DWgia]

Motherboard model: Asus Rampage V Extreme
UEFI Version: 3301
CPU: I7 5960x
Memory kit: F4-3000C15Q-16GRK (4x4 GB).
GPU: 2x Titan X Hybrid (Maxwell).
SSD/HDDs/Optical drives: Samsung 850 Pro 512gb / Seagate 2TB 7200RPM SSHD.
PSU: EVGA Supernova 1600 P2.
USB Devices (model/version number): Logitech G910, G502.
Monitor: Asus VG248QE.
CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GTX.
PC CASE: Corsair C70.
Operating system: Windows 7 Ultimate (activated).
Drivers Installed (include version): All drivers are up to date, except IMEI and AI Suite are not installed.
Any third Party temp/voltage software installed: Corsair Link, RealTemp.
System Overclocked (provide details)? No

Issue:
Hello, my pc is acting very strange over the last month. After I left it unused for about 3 months (unplugged), now the CPU just keeps getting hotter after every boot. By that i mean the average temp between each boot is higher than the last. Everything was running at stock settings (optimized default).
Sorry for my bad english but i will try to explain this the best i can:
+When first turned on (after 3 months), temp was at around 36C idle and mid 60s when in load.
+ 2nd boot: 38c at idle and high 60s in load.
+ 3rd boot: 40c at idle and 70c in load.

I figured its a bit hot. So i tried to install Corsair Link to read the cooler's pump speed. When i finished installing, CPU's temp suddenly went to 70-80s. Turned off the pc -> cleared cmos -> boot windows and temps still at 70-80s. Then i opened Corsair Link, changed profile to performance and then back to quiet then things are back to normal.
After that i tried to update the bios (from 1701 to 3301) then Clear CMOS, load optimized default. Nothing changed. CPU still get hotter after every boot.

So i decided to do a clean up that havent been done since Fall 2015.I reapplied thermal paste (coolaboratory liquid ultra), clean off all the dust on fans and radiators. Now notice how the temps change again.
+ 4th boot (after clean up): temps at 30c idle and never past 53 in load. I was very happy.
+ 5th boot: 33c at idle, 56 in load.
+ 6th boot: 37c at idle, low 60s in load.
+ 7th boot: 38c at idle, mid 60s in load.
+ 8th boot: with just 1 google chrome tab, RealTemp 3.7 software on screen, im seeing 44C (CPU load is at around 1.5%). It never reach 40 like this when i first bought it in Fall 2015. Im pretty sure it will reach high 60s to low 70s when in load this time. By "in load" i mean when playing Battlefield 4 after 30mins. Fans curves remain the same for every boot. CPU cooler's pump speed is always at max (3100 rpm, reading from Corsair Link).
I have found a temporary solution:
**Turn off pc --> Turn off PSU's power switch --> Unplug power cable --> pushed the power button on the case and on the motherboard a few times (i guess this is to discharge any remaining electricity left) --> turn it on again after 1-3 hrs. Now temps are back to 30c when idle and never goes past 53 in load. After that, cpu's temp just keeps getting hotter after each boot like before. And temps are always back to 30 idle when i try to do the method mentioned above.
So in conclusion, if i dont unplug and push the power buttons on the mobo and on the case before i turn the pc on again, cpu's temp will keep getting higher. Im very frustrated about what i should try next.
Core voltage remains stable at 0.744V-0.948-0.978V.
Even though everything is at stock settings, i've noticed that my CPU only reach 3298 Mhz but not 3498 Mhz when playing BF4. I see the core speed 3498 Mhz number pop up in a blink of an eye very rarely on RealTemp software. But it never get to and stay stable at 3498 Mhz when gaming.
I'm suspecting the motherboard since i've heard this board have had all kind of issues since release. However, in my case, this is the first problem i have with it since when i bought it.
Below is a screen capture showing stats by the time im typing this.
https://flic.kr/p/MFRx29
Please help!!
Any advise on how to fix this problem would be very appreciated.
Thank you very much.

[Chino]

Your liquid cooler is probably defective or gone bad. You should verify it's functionality. Start by checking the pump.

[qwertz]

Even if pump shows normal rpm it may have problem with moving water in loop.
Touch cold and hot pipes , temp should be almost equal if pump moving water normally.

[Arne_Saknussemm]

Cooler defective for sure..get it RMAd

[snafup]

Hi,
Don't rely on your corsair software to show what is happening.Mine said everything was running fine as the pump slowly died.

My 110igt slowly died and my temps started to creep up. I didn't realize this until i started to get blue screens.
It was the last thing i noticed as i was looking in the wrong direction for the blue screens.( cpu voltage, oc etc.etc.)
I actually reapplied thermal paste thinking that was the problem, but it actually was enough to kill the pump totally.

Dealing with Corsair was an absolute joy. I had a ok on my rma within a half hour of putting in a ticket for replacement.
I had a new cooler within a week.
Let them know the temperature is slowly getting higher. It may actually be a known issue.

[DWgia]

Hello. Thanks for all the replies guys. I just checked the cold and hot pipes' temp yesterday by touching it after playing BF4 for straight 3hrs. They were a bit warm (if not hot). And the hot pipe i think it's just a little bit hotter than the cold pipe at the section near the cpu.

I also checked the coolant's temp from Corsair Link and it showed 38.5. That seems understandable for me. So I guess they are running ok right?
Thanks for all the advices about the cooler. But one thing that's been bugging me is that if the cooler is defective, how can it cool the cpu just fine if I unplug PSU then press the power button on the mobo a few times then let it rest for few hrs before turning it on again.

I have also tested that if i only unplug and not pressing the power button on the mobo after that, CPU would still get hotter on next boot. Something is storing some kind of power into the CPU while pc is off maybe? Could it be dust on the CPU socket?

I'm willing to replace the cooler right away if i know for sure it's defective. Is there any chance that the CPU, or the mobo or even the PSU is defective? I will need to buy another cooler if I RMA my current one because I dont have any other cooler available. I cant wait that long.
Do you guys have any other ideas to check where the problem came from?
Thanks!!!

[Raja]

The loop temp will increase to a given thermal ceiling according to the ambient temps and the heat that's being dumped into it. If the testing doesn't include shutting the system down between reBOOTs to allow the temps to drop back to the same state as initial power on, the rise is what I would define as normal operation.

[Arne_Saknussemm]

Now I'm not sure if the cooler is defective or the description 😮

There should be zero difference between the temps of the two pipes ....there is no cold pipe and no hot pipe. The system comes to equilibrium with ambient temperature as a whole and with normal flow there will be an all but immeasurable difference between in and out temp across the block.

Obviously this equilibrium is not reached instantly. The loop will slowly come to equilibrium. If ambient (room) temp is not changing wildly then maximum temp under same load conditions should vary very little between periods of use. For example you use the computer normally for 20 minutes at the same ambient temps and the max loop temp should be within a couple of degrees.

Run a stress test would be a better and more constant load/reproducible test.

If temps are varying a lot under similar use and similar ambient temps and there is a noticeable difference in temps of the pipes then the cooler is on the blink.

[Raja]

Arne Saknussemm wrote:
Now I'm not sure if the cooler is defective or the description 😮

There should be zero difference between the temps of the two pipes ....there is no cold pipe and no hot pipe. The system comes to equilibrium with ambient temperature as a whole and with normal flow there will be an all but immeasurable difference between in and out temp across the block.

For sake of accuracy, a well-ventilated rad will create a disparity between inlet and outlet temps - should be a few degrees between the two, even after prolonged use. As the rad gets closer to being saturated, the delta shrinks. One can measure the IO disparity with accurate sensors.

[red454]

I do cooler (and case) reviews for a website, and I started using a FLIR camera a couple of weeks ago. The cooler I just finished (FrostFlow 240L) showed roughly a 5 degree C difference between the inlet and outlet temps. I can trace the temperature drop visually (using the FLIR camera) along the path of the coolant through the radiator. This is using a 4770K clocked at 4.2 under a Prime95 load for 1 hour. Ambient temp was 23 C.