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fa506qm-nh008 thermal interfaces

Xasthur93
Level 8

Hi! Need help with fa506qm tuf a15. 5800h/3060 config.

Can someone tell me thickness of original thermal pads on it? i think gpu's memory is 1mm but what to do with vrm? Thermal interface on vrm looks like gum, liquid thermal pad maybe. I want to replace it with classic good thermalpad like thermalright odyssey, which thickness should i use?

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1 ACCEPTED SOLUTION

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Liquid metal will make a nice difference in shifting the heat, PTM7950 is a good second and easier to use. The additional HS, the ones over the dies themselves, I believe it was a 3mm M.2 cooler that I cut in half, flatted and polished the bottom and used a thin layer of thermal adhesive (glue not tape). The VRMs have generic mini Heatsinks (5mm+ definitely) on them, had to flat the bottom as they're pretty outwardly domed. They're pretty thick though, they worked in the FA506QR, but when I went to see if they would fit in the FA507RR there wasn't enough headroom in the chassis. In the RR I used another slimline M.2 cooler (2-3mm I think) across the top of the Copper/aluminium branch.

Depending on how handy you are, you can build your own to a better standard than a typical bough one. I tried several over the counter options and they worked OK. They got thrashed when I made my own though. If you get a decent solid laptop stand, mark out where your intakes are, line up some PC case fans, for me I used 2 Arctic P14s with the daisy chain cables. Marked up mounting holes, and actual fan aperture, drilled the holes for mounting and cut out the section where the fan actually blows at, mount them up, take the spare daisy chain end, chop it, and solder it to a USB to 12v or in my case a 15v stepper. (works fine with 2 of those fanes) Dust screen the back of the fans and boom. You have yourself a monster USB cooler pushing air where ever you want it. Aside the IETS GT500, I didn't find a bought cooler that could stand up to that. There's several vids on Youtube where people have some similar to great effect. You don't lose portability then either. Most USB coolers are just generic 5v things with no static pressure, they can be better than nothing, but building your own is much better for actual performance.

You should try learning how to undervolt and OC your GPU with MSI afterburner. You get better performance and use much less voltage too which drops temps.

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9 REPLIES 9

Ragnaraz690
Level 11

I had a "pro" work on my laptop and do a ton of guess work with pads and he just couldn't get it right. TBH the guy was crap, but also there are too many waves and bends in the cooling assembly and tolerances are all over too. You best thermal options are Upsiren UX Pro Ultra from Aliexpress. It's currently one of if not THE best thermal putty around at the moment. Grab yourself a tub of that for the VRMs and VRAM. As for the CPU and GPU, your best long term options are PTM7950 or TG Conductonaut.

If you're a novice I'd say grab some PTM7950, it's the second best thing on the market and remarkably easy to use. It comes in sheets, you cut it to die size apply and forget. I doubled my sheet just to be sure and it worked perfectly when aa few cycles had happened. I have also used liquid metal, which is better than PTM, but comes with a whole host of risks and mistakes can cost you your machine.

I did this on an A15 FA506QR, LM on the CPU and PTM on the GPU. The biggest gain I got aside those options was modifying the chassis bottom and sitting it on a high performance cooler. If you want more detail I can link you to my Reddit post of that build with pics.

Thanks, give me the link please, I'll read with pleasure.

But my main question was about thickness of thermalpad on vrm. 

Also, what are your temperatures? For now I've used 20wt/mk thermal plastid, originally made for miners, and mx-6 for gpu and CPU. And gpu always on 86 degrees and throttling. Dunno what's wrong with this cooling system or it is just normal for this laptop

Ragnaraz690
Level 11

Temps on that laptop sat on an IETS GT500 CPU max around 80C, GPU max around 70c I believe.
Finally I finished my FA506QR project. : GamingLaptops (reddit.com)
That's my old post with all the details if you're curious.

What's that thermal plastid? At 20w/mk that's insanely good, why even change that 😛 As for thickness on VRMs, they came with putty so you're best using putty, I couldn't get the mount to sit nicely with any pads. I asked ASUS and they themselves said just use a putty as there are no specifications on the gaps as they're pretty uneven.

Thanks for the reply. Will read your reddit post 🙂 dunno what's wrong with my laptop, too high temps... Maybe something with heatsink pipes, dunno.

I mean thermal plasticine, sorry for my English 🙂 it looks exactly like plasticine for kids, you must warm it up in hands before using. Brand is "frost-mining" small local company specializing in thermal interfaces for mining hardware. 

Xasthur93
Level 8

IMG_20230417_185456_585.jpg

IMG_20230417_182953_555.jpg

 btw I asked for thickness because I'm trying different solutions including classic thermal pads in hope for better temps... But I'm started thinking that selling this is the best way. 

Ragnaraz690
Level 11

I wish I could offer more incite, I did try and fail to make pads work, unfortunately even ASUS didn't try with pads on this one.

GIve liquid metal or PTM 7950 a go on the chips. Thing is, when you boost the heat being taken away from the VRMs and VRAM, the temps of the cooling loop are going to raise some and give higher temps unless you do something to increase the general airflow and thermal mass in the cooling loop. It's why if you look at hat post you'll see that Iadded more copper over the top of the VRMs and over the top of both dies themselves as well as adding more ventilation so a high power cooler can help remove heat locally as well as through the system fans.

Before I did all my modifications I disabled Boost via a registry edit. locks it to the base clock of 3.2ghz in turbo, That alone Shaved about 20c off the temps. you can also limit the max wattage via a program called AATU. I know it is a lot of messing but you can reign in those temps, it's just a lot of trial and error.

Thanks for help! Hope this topic will help other people.
I diabled boost a long time ago. I've read the reddit topic. So, basically, good thermal putty + additional copper mini-heatsinks +  laptop cooling pad? 
I just wanted to see acceptable temps without additional coolers, because i cant take cooling pad anywhere, its not mobile. But now i see its impossible for this laptop.

CPU temps without boost are high, but acceptable, im worried about GPU, which is ALWAYS in throttling mode at 86 degrees. Maybe i will try liquid metal.
Will try to add mini-heatsinks later. Btw, can you tell me sizes of HS you've used?

Also, IETS isnt available at my country, so what you think about ZALMAN ZM-NS2000? Or Deepcool multicore x6

 

Liquid metal will make a nice difference in shifting the heat, PTM7950 is a good second and easier to use. The additional HS, the ones over the dies themselves, I believe it was a 3mm M.2 cooler that I cut in half, flatted and polished the bottom and used a thin layer of thermal adhesive (glue not tape). The VRMs have generic mini Heatsinks (5mm+ definitely) on them, had to flat the bottom as they're pretty outwardly domed. They're pretty thick though, they worked in the FA506QR, but when I went to see if they would fit in the FA507RR there wasn't enough headroom in the chassis. In the RR I used another slimline M.2 cooler (2-3mm I think) across the top of the Copper/aluminium branch.

Depending on how handy you are, you can build your own to a better standard than a typical bough one. I tried several over the counter options and they worked OK. They got thrashed when I made my own though. If you get a decent solid laptop stand, mark out where your intakes are, line up some PC case fans, for me I used 2 Arctic P14s with the daisy chain cables. Marked up mounting holes, and actual fan aperture, drilled the holes for mounting and cut out the section where the fan actually blows at, mount them up, take the spare daisy chain end, chop it, and solder it to a USB to 12v or in my case a 15v stepper. (works fine with 2 of those fanes) Dust screen the back of the fans and boom. You have yourself a monster USB cooler pushing air where ever you want it. Aside the IETS GT500, I didn't find a bought cooler that could stand up to that. There's several vids on Youtube where people have some similar to great effect. You don't lose portability then either. Most USB coolers are just generic 5v things with no static pressure, they can be better than nothing, but building your own is much better for actual performance.

You should try learning how to undervolt and OC your GPU with MSI afterburner. You get better performance and use much less voltage too which drops temps.