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[GL702VM & similar] Solution to Performance issues / Overheating / Throttling / Whine

onjax
Level 9
Hi guys, I bought GL702VM and was upset with its ability to handle games and high load. I had immediate temperature jump to over 85 jump and throttling / frame drops in games. So I decided to understand how to improve things, even though, I already lost my warranty due to my experiments, but at least I can answer for everyone, that:
- the main problem of this notebook is inefficient, insufficient cooling system with too thin fans, too small heatsinks, vent holes in a wrong places (aside, not above the fans).

To prove this, I first changed the thermal interface to liquid metal. That doesn't solve the issue. This proves, the thermal contact is ok, but heat dissipation is bad. Second, I ran stress tests with back cover removed - helped a lot, about 15-20 degrees off. The proves that air intake is wrong in this system.

I also removed an antidust tape with holes covering all the intake holes. That helped by around 5 degrees and also brought down air noise.

Then I came to idea of downvolting CPU and GPU, thanks to devs of ThrottleStop and MSI Afterburner, we can do this with relative ease.

The result: Fan noise reduced by half. Temp drop is huge. More speed due to ability of CPU/GPU to properly boost to max speed.

For your information - CPU is responsible for about 30% of heat, GPU - for 70%. So best idea is to undervolt the GPU, but for best results go for both.

THE GUIDE - CPU
Variant A - Install Intel Xtreme Tuning Utility

  • Go to Advanced Tuning tab and Change Dynamic CPU Voltage Offset to negative value (move slider to the left). -100mV is a good starting point. Leave Mode to Adaptive.
  • Apply changes.

My CPU holds -150mV well.

Variant B - Install Throttle Stop 8.3 or above

  • On main window click FIVR button
  • Under CPU Core Voltage move Offset Voltage slider to the left. -100mV is a good starting point. The lower value the less heat.
  • Click Apply. On the same window you can save settings to make them apply every time you start the app.


THE GUIDE - GPU

  • Download and Install MSI Afterburner 4.3 or above
  • In settings turn on Unlock voltage control and Unlock voltage monitoring
  • Close MSI Afterburner
  • Download my Voltage Profile for GTX 1060
  • Extract profile to some folder and then copy file to "C:\Program Files (x86)\MSI Afterburner\Profiles". Click continue as Administrator when Windows asks permission to write.
  • Run MSI Afterburner, click on profile 1 (out of 5). Then press Ctrl+F. (1 - least heat, but may be unstable for some... 2, bit more voltage etc till 5.)
  • You will see my Voltage Curve (screenshot). What you'll see that it's flat until 1050mv. that means. 1050 will never be used, so will never be used any voltage except 831mV @ 1860 MHz and below.
  • Click apply to test this curve
  • If this curve is not stable for you - edit it to your taste: Click on 831mV dot and move it lower, so that lower freq will be used for that voltage, and for 1860 freq next available voltage will be used. Etc. Work with leftmost voltage dots to make everything stable.


This curve drops heat of GPU by at least 30%, which is huge.

THE GUIDE - COIL WHINE
Workaround described here: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/975530

Perform only these steps as Administrator:
1. At a command prompt, run the following command:
reg add HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\Processor /v Capabilities /t REG_DWORD /d 0x0007e066
2. Restart the computer.
3. Run ThrottleStop v8.3 or above and uncheck C1E. Click save.

In theory, it will make CPU a bit hotter while system is idle, because it disables some advanced C-states, but i didn't notice that in monitoring app.
That solved like 99.9% of the noise, and in addition, disabling C1E in ThrottleStop solved noise issue completely.
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1,122 REPLIES 1,122

Bran187
Level 9
A while back someone replaced the default thermal compound on the VRM/memory with thermal pads. Does anyone remember what thread/page that was?

I repasted with MX4 a while back, and for a while my temps were improved but they are slowly getting out of whack again. I'm going to repaste again (probably with something from thermal grizzly) but this time I want to throw thermal pads on the VRM/memory.

When I opened it up the first time, some of the VRM/memory modules were not even making any contact. The original thermal compound was just sitting perfectly untouched from the factory in some spots.

Bran187 wrote:
A while back someone replaced the default thermal compound on the VRM/memory with thermal pads. Does anyone remember what thread/page that was?

I repasted with MX4 a while back, and for a while my temps were improved but they are slowly getting out of whack again. I'm going to repaste again (probably with something from thermal grizzly) but this time I want to throw thermal pads on the VRM/memory.

When I opened it up the first time, some of the VRM/memory modules were not even making any contact. The original thermal compound was just sitting perfectly untouched from the factory in some spots.


i am the same too with my gl502 vm so i ordered grizzly kryonaut and conductonaut to try and play with

So I wanted to make an extensive post sharing all my findings and modding results for the GL702VSK.

First of all, kudos to onjax for all the great tips he shared with the community. ASUS should share a link to this thread to anyone who's bought GL702 series (just kidding).

Alright, so I've been using CPU undervolt -0.125 mV and GPU flat line undervolt for a very long time and still getting throttling. Here are the steps that I've went for at first:

1. I decided to change the thermal paste to Gelid Extreme, and it only dropped 1 or 2 C°, still throttling;
2. I tried the cooling pad, but didn't notice any drastic differences in temps, I was playing AC:Origins at the time, CPU was throttling;
3. I've ordered "vacuum coolers" as per recommendation from this thread, and albeit using two of them, they made zero difference in temperature behavior;
4. Tried to apply the foil tape, but this seemed to detain more heat in the device, removed it;
5. Tried to run the laptop without the case, and the temps never went above 80 C° during stress tests.

All of this led me to the conclusion that there's no way around drilling the holes. I went to AliExpress and ordered 45 mm circular hole saw, needle files, 2 inch speaker covers, an epoxy glue and black paint marker. I had an old broken keyboard lying around and a wooden plank, so I first experimented with the hole saw on it, since it's a plastic too. Needle files are important here - I was trying to go for a "factory look" as much as I could, and they are used to remove any rough edges after drilling. After I was sure I had the necessary skill to do this, I went on to the laptop. I cut the 45 mm circles out of the foil tape, put them on the fans sticky side up, quickly put the laptop upside down (without assembling), then circled the results with pencil. I repeated it several times to make sure I've got the right placement for the hole patterns and moved on to drilling. After the holes were ready, I made them prettier with needle files, applied epoxy glue on both skeaker grills and case, waited 5 minutes and installed the grills. I left it to cure for around 30 hours and this is the result:

71892


The black paint marker is needed to paint the coolers in black, since they are gray and look pretty inconsistent through the holes. It is acrylic paint, so looks pretty slick after application, but needs to be done in one sitting for all the paint to be applied uniformly. Forgot to take the pictures without the case, sorry.

71893


Long story short, did it help? Yes, significantly. Here's a link to imgur with tiny bit more detail, but I've made this chart to help convince anyone who didn't make the hole mod yet:

71894


My method of testing is this - I use FurMark to push the GPU and the test included in Intel XTU to push the CPU. Before the mod, the CPU would throttle at around 8 or 9 minutes of test, so I never ran it more than that. After the mod I ran it for 15 minutes and the temps were stable. I've surely tested the laptop with Kingdom Come Deliverance, which puts some heavy load on the machine (60-70% load on CPU, 99% load on GPU), and the temps never went above 89 C° with the fans set on Auto, game settings on High presets, fps capped at 95 for G-Sync (my display is overclocked to 100 Hz). The fans at Auto used to spin at 4700 RPM, going up to 5200 RPM when throttled - and now they spin at 3900 RPM, which is way more silent than it used to be. In the chart you can see that there is an overall rise of temps of other components, such as SSD and HDD, but that might be negligible since they are still both in the comfort zone. HDD and SSD temps is the whole other topic which is too big to go through, but they are.

Now, there is one other issue that I've never seen addressed in this thread except for OP's post. There is significant coil whine when the system idles, and since it's been overall less noisy now, it has become more prevalent. Disabling C1E in ThrottleStop completely stopped the buzzing noise, but you still need to set up launching it automatically in Windows tasker or "shell:startup".

After all the mods applied, this machine is awesome. But no customer should ever go through all this trouble at this high a price to get the performance they paid for. If the original intent was to make sure that the customer would fry their machine shortly after the warranty period, it's just plain stupid. What's even more questionable is that they continue to manufacture devices with this overheating chassis - all the meanwhile this thread soon hitting 100 pages.

TornaD-oz wrote:
So I wanted to make an extensive post sharing all my findings and modding results for the GL702VSK.



Which speaker cover did you go with and where did you order it from? Looking through amazon and the one i found didnt seem to have much surface area to glue to.

JArias wrote:
Which speaker cover did you go with and where did you order it from? Looking through amazon and the one i found didnt seem to have much surface area to glue to.

2 inch one from AliExpress. I can share SKU if it's allowed on this forum.

TornaD-oz wrote:
So I wanted to make an extensive post sharing all my findings and modding results for the GL702VSK.

First of all, kudos to onjax for all the great tips he shared with the community. ASUS should share a link to this thread to anyone who's bought GL702 series (just kidding).

Alright, so I've been using CPU undervolt -0.125 mV and GPU flat line undervolt for a very long time and still getting throttling. Here are the steps that I've went for at first:

1. I decided to change the thermal paste to Gelid Extreme, and it only dropped 1 or 2 C°, still throttling;
2. I tried the cooling pad, but didn't notice any drastic differences in temps, I was playing AC:Origins at the time, CPU was throttling;
3. I've ordered "vacuum coolers" as per recommendation from this thread, and albeit using two of them, they made zero difference in temperature behavior;
4. Tried to apply the foil tape, but this seemed to detain more heat in the device, removed it;
5. Tried to run the laptop without the case, and the temps never went above 80 C° during stress tests.

All of this led me to the conclusion that there's no way around drilling the holes. I went to AliExpress and ordered 45 mm circular hole saw, needle files, 2 inch speaker covers, an epoxy glue and black paint marker. I had an old broken keyboard lying around and a wooden plank, so I first experimented with the hole saw on it, since it's a plastic too. Needle files are important here - I was trying to go for a "factory look" as much as I could, and they are used to remove any rough edges after drilling. After I was sure I had the necessary skill to do this, I went on to the laptop. I cut the 45 mm circles out of the foil tape, put them on the fans sticky side up, quickly put the laptop upside down (without assembling), then circled the results with pencil. I repeated it several times to make sure I've got the right placement for the hole patterns and moved on to drilling. After the holes were ready, I made them prettier with needle files, applied epoxy glue on both skeaker grills and case, waited 5 minutes and installed the grills. I left it to cure for around 30 hours and this is the result:

71892


The black paint marker is needed to paint the coolers in black, since they are gray and look pretty inconsistent through the holes. It is acrylic paint, so looks pretty slick after application, but needs to be done in one sitting for all the paint to be applied uniformly. Forgot to take the pictures without the case, sorry.

71893


Long story short, did it help? Yes, significantly. Here's a link to imgur with tiny bit more detail, but I've made this chart to help convince anyone who didn't make the hole mod yet:

71894


My method of testing is this - I use FurMark to push the GPU and the test included in Intel XTU to push the CPU. Before the mod, the CPU would throttle at around 8 or 9 minutes of test, so I never ran it more than that. After the mod I ran it for 15 minutes and the temps were stable. I've surely tested the laptop with Kingdom Come Deliverance, which puts some heavy load on the machine (60-70% load on CPU, 99% load on GPU), and the temps never went above 89 C° with the fans set on Auto, game settings on High presets, fps capped at 95 for G-Sync (my display is overclocked to 100 Hz). The fans at Auto used to spin at 4700 RPM, going up to 5200 RPM when throttled - and now they spin at 3900 RPM, which is way more silent than it used to be. In the chart you can see that there is an overall rise of temps of other components, such as SSD and HDD, but that might be negligible since they are still both in the comfort zone. HDD and SSD temps is the whole other topic which is too big to go through, but they are.

Now, there is one other issue that I've never seen addressed in this thread except for OP's post. There is significant coil whine when the system idles, and since it's been overall less noisy now, it has become more prevalent. Disabling C1E in ThrottleStop completely stopped the buzzing noise, but you still need to set up launching it automatically in Windows tasker or "shell:startup".

After all the mods applied, this machine is awesome. But no customer should ever go through all this trouble at this high a price to get the performance they paid for. If the original intent was to make sure that the customer would fry their machine shortly after the warranty period, it's just plain stupid. What's even more questionable is that they continue to manufacture devices with this overheating chassis - all the meanwhile this thread soon hitting 100 pages.


to place the speaker covers you removed the part as chromed plastic? with these values I am seriously tempted to do so ... What cover speakers did you buy?

Bran187 wrote:
A while back someone replaced the default thermal compound on the VRM/memory with thermal pads. Does anyone remember what thread/page that was?


Found it. It's on page 63 if anybody else was interested.

Guys, there's something strange going on with my GL702VS again. After installing the latest 307 BIOS, I noticed FPS drops from 100 to 20 at random and then going back to normal after about 20-30 seconds. I watched the clock speeds and noticed that the CPU was going from 3400 mHz to 700-800 mHz during these drops, then slowly going up again. At first I thought that it's just poor optimization performance (was playing Kingdom Come at the time), but then I installed Dishonored 2 and the same happened. I fiddled with every possible solution I could think of, until I noticed that you can disable Turbo Boost in ThrottleStop. With Turbo disabled, the clock drops are no longer there (FPS is lower now, of course).

I think I'll create another thread for this issue, because it's really disturbing. I have the drill mod, the temps stay below 80 C so thermal throttling is out of the question.

Have any of you noticed the same behavior?

Update: I tried to enable Turbo again and ran the fans on max RPM. There were no drops for about 20-30 minutes, then I put the fans on auto and the drop occurred. It leads me to believe there are issues with VRM throttling, even though the CPU itself is relatively cool. I have no experience dealing with VRM issues and there seems to be no way to check its temperatures in this laptop, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello,

im running 307 too and have no Problems.

My Settings:

CPU undervolt -120 @2,8Ghz, Tubo disabled
GPU runs ab 850 @1850

1 Hour GTA 5 = Temps GPU 59° // CPU max. 68°

Im happy now. Have the G702VSK with 2 Fans (CPU and GPU Fan and not the 3 fan in the middle)

I have solved the terrible heating and cooling issues first-hand, and I could not wait to share it with those of you who remain to have this issue.

What you will need :
- the old plastics and warranty card associated with your device
- the old cardboard box your device shipped in
- receipts (if any still remain)
- a means of transport (ie: car, public transportation, etc)
- a few days, and maybe a few extra bits of loose cash
- the will and need to see the light...


the first thing I did was take the old plastics and warranty card for my device, and neatly placed everything into the cardboard box my device came in. In my situation, I had purchased the Laptop from a local store, and I was still within my warranty period. I proceeded to get into my car and drive to the location of wherein I had purchased the said laptop, and spoke to an associate who pointed me in the direction of Customer Service.

The associate who assisted me in RETURNING MY ASUS was an immense help, and I could not have been any happier to have dealt with them. Before exiting the store, I whipped my phone out, did a quick search on a local website for the availability of a BETTER LAPTOP, in my case, an MSI GE62MVR which reaped everything I wanted from my ****ty ASUS, and made it cooler, and now poses the GPU (GTX 1060) as the bottleneck to my 7700HQ which barely needs to run full tilt. Unlike almost all of you, I barely touch 72 Degrees Celcius, when the CPU sits near 100% useage threshold... which... it never does.. because it never throttles... even without cooler boost enabled

i'm not sorry you still have 230w egg boilers that can't out-perform a toaster.
I hope you all learn, and next time decide on something built more accordingly.
I learned just in time, and it seems most of you didn't.