cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

[GL702VM & similar] Solution to Performance issues / Overheating / Throttling / Whine

onjax
Level 9
Hi guys, I bought GL702VM and was upset with its ability to handle games and high load. I had immediate temperature jump to over 85 jump and throttling / frame drops in games. So I decided to understand how to improve things, even though, I already lost my warranty due to my experiments, but at least I can answer for everyone, that:
- the main problem of this notebook is inefficient, insufficient cooling system with too thin fans, too small heatsinks, vent holes in a wrong places (aside, not above the fans).

To prove this, I first changed the thermal interface to liquid metal. That doesn't solve the issue. This proves, the thermal contact is ok, but heat dissipation is bad. Second, I ran stress tests with back cover removed - helped a lot, about 15-20 degrees off. The proves that air intake is wrong in this system.

I also removed an antidust tape with holes covering all the intake holes. That helped by around 5 degrees and also brought down air noise.

Then I came to idea of downvolting CPU and GPU, thanks to devs of ThrottleStop and MSI Afterburner, we can do this with relative ease.

The result: Fan noise reduced by half. Temp drop is huge. More speed due to ability of CPU/GPU to properly boost to max speed.

For your information - CPU is responsible for about 30% of heat, GPU - for 70%. So best idea is to undervolt the GPU, but for best results go for both.

THE GUIDE - CPU
Variant A - Install Intel Xtreme Tuning Utility

  • Go to Advanced Tuning tab and Change Dynamic CPU Voltage Offset to negative value (move slider to the left). -100mV is a good starting point. Leave Mode to Adaptive.
  • Apply changes.

My CPU holds -150mV well.

Variant B - Install Throttle Stop 8.3 or above

  • On main window click FIVR button
  • Under CPU Core Voltage move Offset Voltage slider to the left. -100mV is a good starting point. The lower value the less heat.
  • Click Apply. On the same window you can save settings to make them apply every time you start the app.


THE GUIDE - GPU

  • Download and Install MSI Afterburner 4.3 or above
  • In settings turn on Unlock voltage control and Unlock voltage monitoring
  • Close MSI Afterburner
  • Download my Voltage Profile for GTX 1060
  • Extract profile to some folder and then copy file to "C:\Program Files (x86)\MSI Afterburner\Profiles". Click continue as Administrator when Windows asks permission to write.
  • Run MSI Afterburner, click on profile 1 (out of 5). Then press Ctrl+F. (1 - least heat, but may be unstable for some... 2, bit more voltage etc till 5.)
  • You will see my Voltage Curve (screenshot). What you'll see that it's flat until 1050mv. that means. 1050 will never be used, so will never be used any voltage except 831mV @ 1860 MHz and below.
  • Click apply to test this curve
  • If this curve is not stable for you - edit it to your taste: Click on 831mV dot and move it lower, so that lower freq will be used for that voltage, and for 1860 freq next available voltage will be used. Etc. Work with leftmost voltage dots to make everything stable.


This curve drops heat of GPU by at least 30%, which is huge.

THE GUIDE - COIL WHINE
Workaround described here: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/975530

Perform only these steps as Administrator:
1. At a command prompt, run the following command:
reg add HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\Processor /v Capabilities /t REG_DWORD /d 0x0007e066
2. Restart the computer.
3. Run ThrottleStop v8.3 or above and uncheck C1E. Click save.

In theory, it will make CPU a bit hotter while system is idle, because it disables some advanced C-states, but i didn't notice that in monitoring app.
That solved like 99.9% of the noise, and in addition, disabling C1E in ThrottleStop solved noise issue completely.
2,336 Views
1,122 REPLIES 1,122

McCoy wrote:
Dremel (r) is a best way if you can handle it - or just buy cheap copy. Or take to some workshop.

Applying Liquid Metal is not he same as for paste. I never tried to apply to chips directly - but i did application on CPU cover on desktop. MX4 will help, because factory application is awful (air bubbles).

I definitely NOT recommend to use typical plastic duct tape - hot air from vents might melt it. So Alu will be great.

And well ... maybe we can put a little copper radiator on this PCH chip? Someone tried?
Somebody done this?75506


Thanks a lot again for the aluminium duct tape tip!
I just mean is the same proccess to do w/paste and metal : polish the heatsink, chips, apply a little cuantity, etc.. I think is not recommended apply liquid metal in other place than GPU and CPU for is conductive and corrosive compounds, so i just try w MX4. (sorry my english again)
About the copper radiator, can be a good idea, seems GL702 models includes an extra fan in this place... but I lack precise knowledge, sry.
Good day!

Niija wrote:
Thanks a lot again for the aluminium duct tape tip!
I just mean is the same proccess to do w/paste and metal : polish the heatsink, chips, apply a little cuantity, etc.. I think is not recommended apply liquid metal in other place than GPU and CPU for is conductive and corrosive compounds, so i just try w MX4. (sorry my english again)
About the copper radiator, can be a good idea, seems GL702 models includes an extra fan in this place... but I lack precise knowledge, sry.
Good day!


When applying liquid metal you should avoid aluminium surfaces. Though, MX-4 a very good compound.

I saw Alienware upgrade with putting small radiator on bridge chip ... the guy did it pushes that it helped A LOT!

McCoy wrote:
Dremel (r) is a best way if you can handle it - or just buy cheap copy. Or take to some workshop.

Applying Liquid Metal is not he same as for paste. I never tried to apply to chips directly - but i did application on CPU cover on desktop. MX4 will help, because factory application is awful (air bubbles).

I definitely NOT recommend to use typical plastic duct tape - hot air from vents might melt it. So Alu will be great.

And well ... maybe we can put a little copper radiator on this PCH chip? Someone tried?
Somebody done this?75506


i tried using 2mm thick pure copper plate on it, doesn't make any difference. i assume it would be pointless as the thermal tape conductivity is minimal. using thermal glue is the only way to go, but i couldn't find a good one in my area.
but i read that this PCH chipset isn't generating significant heat, so it doesn't really need extra cooling. i am more worried about the temp of my M2 SSD... it peaks at 85-90 degrees.
7589675897

My GL702VS lessons learned about cooling this thing.

I have repasted this thing more than 25 times trying different methods of TIM application, different TIM's, different external fan assistance etc. Here are my conclusions and best results and why I think I got these results.

All results are in a 75.5 F degree room.

Bottom drilled out with several holes in a pattern where fan centers are located
Single pci slot fan blowing toward the back center (I no longer tape it to the vent area, I just let it sit blowing toward me while it sits against the back center) See my thread for pics https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?101225-GL702VS-Final-cooling-solution-for-7-00-Seriously-N...
Two aquafina water bottle caps sitting under the back rubber feet. I like the slightly raised back for typing plus aids in cooling.
TIM's applied in a very specific way

In Windows cpu and gpu stressed maxed out:
Max temps cpu = 75 C ---Fan boost at 30% set in ROG Center
Max temps gpu = 69 C ---Fan boost at 30% set in ROG Center

In Linux cpu and gpu stressed maxed out:
Max temps cpu = 79 C ---No fan boost because I can't yet figure out how to do it in Linux
Max temps gpu = 71 C ---No fan boost

In Windows I used Intel tunning + furmark to torture, along with GTAV and Kerbal
In Linux I've used stress --cpu 8 + phoronix test suite, plus tested running kerbal

The max temps are exactly that..the max's. Most of the time they are sitting around 3-5deg cooler than max.

Only maxing out the CPU:

In Windows - 63C max (using intel tuning stress)
In Linux - 68C max (using stress --cpu 😎


Now...How did I get this accomplished:

#1 In windows cpu is undervolted by -.125v by intel tuning
#2 In Linux cpu and gpu are undervolted by script -.125v

#3 In windows fan boost set to 30% boost

#4 Water bottle caps under the back rubber feet

#5 PCI slot fan just sitting on desk facing laptop point at the rear center vent area blowing toward me (no longer taped to vent area)

#6 Drilled holes in bottom panel in a pattern centered on fan intakes

#7 Used blue painters tape to tape gaps between fan cases and heat pipes (Do not use metalized tape it just puts more heat in the case)

#8 Applied thermal paste(s) in a VERY specific manner (this is the VERY important part)

*** I'm sure that my thermal paste choices and application methods could generate a lot of heated debate, but I assure you I have repasted this thing no less than 25 times trying all different manners and combinations. So take it as it is intended. This is just My experience and nothing else.

CPU - Antec Formula 7 using the line method
GPU - Arctic MX4 using the spread method (x method worked well too maybe even a degree or two cooler)

Memory chips + FET's (I think they are fets..anyhow whatever they are) - Used Antec Formula 7 in the pea method

Very important...after applying the thermal pastes in these manners..DO NOT...repeat...DO NOT..push down on the heat pipes. Only gently place the heat pipes down and equally and evenly without pushing down on them. I was doing that to ensure good contact and it actually was squishing all TIM from the cpu. The gpu was fine, but the cpu was squished out and then it seemed to me due to tension was microscopically lifting off the cpu once I was no longer pushing down with my finger and just letting the screw brackets hold down the pipes. This was causing a +12C temps difference on the cpu.

So again...just gently place the pipes evenly on the chips and then screw in the bracket screws in the order they are labeled. **Do not push down on the pipes at any time**

I used quite a bit of different TIM's . The reason I settled on Antec Formula 7 for the cpu and memory and fets was because it is a thicker paste and yielded the best temps. This was best combined with MX4 on the gpu with the spread method (x method worked equally well and maybe a degree cooler but I didn't feel like repasting yet again and just left it as spread).

When using the pea method on the memory and fets I used a more than typical amount you would use. The reason is because there is a slight gap because of the design which the factory used that goo as the bridge between the heat sinks and memory. The Antec Formula 7 is thick enough to stay put and soft enough to squish down to the proper thickness. This gets rid of the need to try different size thermal pads.

With all those mods and techniques the temps on this thing are perfectly acceptable.

The line method using Antec Formula 7 (**without pushing down on the pipes and just letting the brackets screw them down**) yields max temps of the cpu of 68C in Linux and 63C in Windows when only stressing the CPU (not loading up the gpu) in a 75.5 deg F room. That's darn good.

As soon as I figure a way to boost the fans in Linux, I'll report back. But at this point the temps are so good I'm not too concerned.

Anyhow...That's what I have come up with and it works very well. Hope it helps


SpookyWatcher

Lord_suso
Level 7
Hello.

I thought it was normal to hear clicks whenever I started to hear a video or song. Searching the internet I saw that it could be the realtek driver or the latency. Then try the latencymon program and at least my pc has a lot of latency. I have managed to lower it a little below 1000, when the ideal is below 500. That is why we have a lot of stuttering in some games.

I have tried many combinations of drivers and none let it down. We should be able to dump the bios and modify to access the hidden options in the bios, since we should turn off many things that would improve our laptop. But the truth is that I do not handle very well with AMIBCP_v5.0.1, and AFUWIN64.
PLEASE, Can someone please modify the last bios of the GL502VM to access all these options?

You can see this thread:
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?86944-ASUS-G752VY-BIOS-UNLOCKED-with-tons-of-settings-reve...
https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/1043969/geforce-drivers/stuttering-frame-drops-troubleshoot...
https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-intel-motherboards/1433882-gaming-mouse-response-bios-optimization...


I recommend installing TWEAK II GPU. In my gt1060 it lets me do overclocking: GPU CLOCK +190, memory clock +550. I can play the Witcher 3 on ultra without almost raising the temperature.


The last thing is that the notebookfancontrol app add a lot of dpc latency. You can check it too. It may be that you are spending the gl702vm profile, but it should be the same.

Regards

So I've been following this thread since about April 2017 when I bought my GL502VMK... and tried many many combinations of things to get the temps down.
Over a year later I have it where everything is comfortable on my system.

-CPU-
I've ran many comprehensive stress tests with all different types of programs and real world testing, and came to the conclusion for my CPU -120mV to -125mV is a safe area. I must have won the silicon lottery because my kabylake i7 can hold -150mV under load (I've read people struggle to get -125mV) BUT after -125mV my heat to performance loss ratio is too high... basically i get a 1 degree difference running a -125mV to a -150mV and on some bench-marking software, that 25mV difference crushes some scores. So I'm holding a -125mV on CPU core and Cache -50mV on Inel GPU.
Depending on the program I'm running, I'll swap TurboBoost on or off... when I'm running around the web or running a game that isn't very CPU intensive I'll swap it on. When it comes to games such as PUBG which destroys my CPU, I'll run it with turbo off and to be honest there isn't a noticeable drop in frames. I have adjusted my TPL to 35w for long and short.

-GPU-
For my GPU, onjox's profile didn't do it for me, so I decided to adjust my GPU curve on my own and have my 1060 reach its maximum stock frequency at .900mV.... It took some messing around but where I have my GPU I haven't seen it go above 70.

-Software-
Now, since this laptop has G-Sync, I personally see no reason in running any FPS above 60.... sure PUBG and BF1 can all hit 100fps on these systems.. but why tax the system that much? I locked all my games (with a few exceptions) at 60fps. CSGO I locked at 180 because of a bunch of stuff I don't know how to explain regarding input lag, not running v-sync, and frame buffering basically 180fps is giving me the closest time between frames or something....

Now on the opposite end if the spectrum, I locked Witcher 3 at 40fps... running 60fps on Witcher 3 doesn't benefit me in anyway, but being able to reduce how many frames my computer is trying to push I'm able to pump up my graphics settings quite a bit without compromising heat or performance...
There's lots of methods on how to lock frames, best that I've found is RivaTuner.

-Physical-
The only physical modification to my rig was change out the paste on the CPU and GPU with the infamous grizzly conductonaut liquid metal.
No drilling or added laptop coolers.. all factory except for the paste.


Now here are some pictures of the temps I'm achieving.
The picture of just GPU-Z is my idle temps with the fans on auto, sitting on my lap. CPU-33 GPU-36
The picture showing my custom curve and MSI is with the laptop on my lap after a full match of BF1 CPU-67 GPU-59

Any input would be appreciated, maybe someone else has a method I haven't used yet that could help some more, but I feel comfortable with these temps.. compared to the 80-90 degrees it was hitting out of the box.

Eljefeuno wrote:
So I've been following this thread since about April 2017 when I bought my GL502VMK... and tried many many combinations of things to get the temps down.
Over a year later I have it where everything is comfortable on my system.


Well, it's seems the best results without physical interruption on chassis I've seen so far. Is it possible to provide AIDA 64 (graph temps) + GPU-Z logs (PerfCap is what i'm interested) in thread?

Lord_suso wrote:

I recommend installing TWEAK II GPU. In my gt1060 it lets me do overclocking: GPU CLOCK +190, memory clock +550. I can play the Witcher 3 on ultra without almost raising the temperature.

The last thing is that the notebookfancontrol app add a lot of dpc latency. You can check it too. It may be that you are spending the gl702vm profile, but it should be the same.
Regards


Is it possible to take a look on GPU-Z logs - i'm doing an analysis on PerfCap numbers.

karb10
Level 7
i get 91c temp CPU, 85c GPU ultra graphics pes 2018

try 0.100 undervolt, no effect

And it's throttling at precise timed intervals.

Can anyone explain this?

I have it at 99% min max cpu in power options, not that seems to be a problem.

Thank you.

I'll add this also...

So here's CS-GO to BF4, BF gives me those stutters, frame drops, but I don't see the drops in GPU speed like on CS-GO.