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[GL702VM & similar] Solution to Performance issues / Overheating / Throttling / Whine

onjax
Level 9
Hi guys, I bought GL702VM and was upset with its ability to handle games and high load. I had immediate temperature jump to over 85 jump and throttling / frame drops in games. So I decided to understand how to improve things, even though, I already lost my warranty due to my experiments, but at least I can answer for everyone, that:
- the main problem of this notebook is inefficient, insufficient cooling system with too thin fans, too small heatsinks, vent holes in a wrong places (aside, not above the fans).

To prove this, I first changed the thermal interface to liquid metal. That doesn't solve the issue. This proves, the thermal contact is ok, but heat dissipation is bad. Second, I ran stress tests with back cover removed - helped a lot, about 15-20 degrees off. The proves that air intake is wrong in this system.

I also removed an antidust tape with holes covering all the intake holes. That helped by around 5 degrees and also brought down air noise.

Then I came to idea of downvolting CPU and GPU, thanks to devs of ThrottleStop and MSI Afterburner, we can do this with relative ease.

The result: Fan noise reduced by half. Temp drop is huge. More speed due to ability of CPU/GPU to properly boost to max speed.

For your information - CPU is responsible for about 30% of heat, GPU - for 70%. So best idea is to undervolt the GPU, but for best results go for both.

THE GUIDE - CPU
Variant A - Install Intel Xtreme Tuning Utility

  • Go to Advanced Tuning tab and Change Dynamic CPU Voltage Offset to negative value (move slider to the left). -100mV is a good starting point. Leave Mode to Adaptive.
  • Apply changes.

My CPU holds -150mV well.

Variant B - Install Throttle Stop 8.3 or above

  • On main window click FIVR button
  • Under CPU Core Voltage move Offset Voltage slider to the left. -100mV is a good starting point. The lower value the less heat.
  • Click Apply. On the same window you can save settings to make them apply every time you start the app.


THE GUIDE - GPU

  • Download and Install MSI Afterburner 4.3 or above
  • In settings turn on Unlock voltage control and Unlock voltage monitoring
  • Close MSI Afterburner
  • Download my Voltage Profile for GTX 1060
  • Extract profile to some folder and then copy file to "C:\Program Files (x86)\MSI Afterburner\Profiles". Click continue as Administrator when Windows asks permission to write.
  • Run MSI Afterburner, click on profile 1 (out of 5). Then press Ctrl+F. (1 - least heat, but may be unstable for some... 2, bit more voltage etc till 5.)
  • You will see my Voltage Curve (screenshot). What you'll see that it's flat until 1050mv. that means. 1050 will never be used, so will never be used any voltage except 831mV @ 1860 MHz and below.
  • Click apply to test this curve
  • If this curve is not stable for you - edit it to your taste: Click on 831mV dot and move it lower, so that lower freq will be used for that voltage, and for 1860 freq next available voltage will be used. Etc. Work with leftmost voltage dots to make everything stable.


This curve drops heat of GPU by at least 30%, which is huge.

THE GUIDE - COIL WHINE
Workaround described here: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/975530

Perform only these steps as Administrator:
1. At a command prompt, run the following command:
reg add HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\Processor /v Capabilities /t REG_DWORD /d 0x0007e066
2. Restart the computer.
3. Run ThrottleStop v8.3 or above and uncheck C1E. Click save.

In theory, it will make CPU a bit hotter while system is idle, because it disables some advanced C-states, but i didn't notice that in monitoring app.
That solved like 99.9% of the noise, and in addition, disabling C1E in ThrottleStop solved noise issue completely.
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1,122 REPLIES 1,122

stmDooD wrote:
You have 75C - it's ok. Just repaste with mx2 or mx4 thermalpaste. It's much more cheaper and no problem after few months (you know that liquid metal reacts with copper, but copper much more slower degrades than aluminium). After repaste your temp (in game) should be ~70C, with liquid metal may be ~62-65C. Google it "liquid metal compatibility with copper heat sinks" and make conclusions.
p.s. english is not my native language


I'm really going to repaste because I've seen too many people saying that the intel thermal paste is not that good. I'm not going to use liquid metal.
Which thermal paste should I use? I don't mind paying a bit more for a better one..

I've been searching a bit and I think I'm going to use Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, what do you guys think? Here are others I've seen: Arctic MX-4, Arctic Silver 5 and Noctua NT-H1.

stmDooD wrote:
hi. Check nVidia GeForce Experiece software. Do you use whisper mode? If yes - go to nVidia control panel/manage 3d settings/program settings, choose your game (the witcher 3) and select frame rate on WhisperMode (default is 40fps). Or just disable WhisperMode, but I recommend you to keep WhisperMode enabled. After each driver update - check framerate on nVidia control panel. If you can't find this settings - I can make some screenshots.
p.s. english is not my native language. I hope you understand me.


Sure, I understood 😉

No, I didn't install Geforce experience after formatting the PC, I was told that this software is definitely not useful, rather sometimes it is the opposite.

However, I think that, because of having problems also in benchmarks, the issues are not caused by the Nvidia's software.

Yokali wrote:
I've been testing CPU and GPU undervolt and both help well but I wanted lower temps without drill the case so 2 days ago I tried with the adaptative energy mode of the Nvidial control panel wich changes the mode how the graphics cards works, as far as I was able to understand it's something like:
Adaptive
If there is some 3d load let's jump to a higher frequency like 800Mhz if that frequency is capable of managing the load (<90%) let's keep that frequency but if it isn't let's look for some higher frequency and so on.

Optimal performance
If there's some 3d load let's jump to a realy high frequency like ~1600Mhz and doesn't matter the load isn't too high to avoid stuttering let's keep that high.

So in comparison with Adaptive you can get 800Mhz (or higher depending on the load) with ~80% usage wich means less current, more efficiency but maybe stuttering. with Optimal performance 1600Mhz <50% usage, more stable frequency means more stable fps but more current consumption meaning more heat

I hope I'd explained well


I tried this finally. Both Turbo on and off, NO undervolting. Unfortunately, the difference was minimal. It stayed cooler (-75c) for longer but in the long run, my temps still peaked above 80c. It did shave off a couple degrees so down from the "normal" 85-86c to 82-84c. At this point i'll take what i can get and leave the settings on adaptive but NO significant changes here. Thanks anyways.
Time to mess with Voltages now. if that doesnt do it, im cutting holes in the bottom case. im over it. The nearest ASUS store to me in like 6 hours away so having them repaste it is out of the question and im nervous about opening it myself.

On another note, how long is our warranties good for?

JArias wrote:


On another note, how long is our warranties good for?


Regarding warranty: depends on where you bought, but generally 2 years.
GL702VM

JArias
Level 7
onjax wrote:
Hi guys, I bought GL702VM and was upset with its ability to handle games and high load. I had immediate temperature jump to over 85 jump and throttling / frame drops in games. So I decided to understand how to improve things, even though, I already lost my warranty due to my experiments, but at least I can answer for everyone, that:
- the main problem of this notebook is inefficient, insufficient cooling system with too thin fans, too small heatsinks, vent holes in a wrong places (aside, not above the fans).

To prove this, I first changed the thermal interface to liquid metal. That doesn't solve the issue. This proves, the thermal contact is ok, but heat dissipation is bad. Second, I ran stress tests with back cover removed - helped a lot, about 15-20 degrees off. The proves that air intake is wrong in this system.

I also removed an antidust tape with holes covering all the intake holes. That helped by around 5 degrees and also brought down air noise.

Then I came to idea of downvolting CPU and GPU, thanks to devs of ThrottleStop and MSI Afterburner, we can do this with relative ease.

The result: Fan noise reduced by half. Temp drop is huge. More speed due to ability of CPU/GPU to properly boost to max speed.

For your information - CPU is responsible for about 30% of heat, GPU - for 70%. So best idea is to undervolt the GPU, but for best results go for both.

THE GUIDE - CPU
Variant A - Install Intel Xtreme Tuning Utility

  • Go to Advanced Tuning tab and Change Dynamic CPU Voltage Offset to negative value (move slider to the left). -100mV is a good starting point. Leave Mode to Adaptive.
  • Apply changes.

My CPU holds -150mV well.

Variant B - Install Throttle Stop 8.3 or above

  • On main window click FIVR button
  • Under CPU Core Voltage move Offset Voltage slider to the left. -100mV is a good starting point. The lower value the less heat.
  • Click Apply. On the same window you can save settings to make them apply every time you start the app.


THE GUIDE - GPU

  • Download and Install MSI Afterburner 4.3 or above
  • In settings turn on Unlock voltage control and Unlock voltage monitoring
  • Close MSI Afterburner
  • Download my Voltage Profile for GTX 1060
  • Extract profile to some folder and then copy file to "C:\Program Files (x86)\MSI Afterburner\Profiles". Click continue as Administrator when Windows asks permission to write.
  • Run MSI Afterburner, click on profile 1 (out of 5). Then press Ctrl+F. (1 - least heat, but may be unstable for some... 2, bit more voltage etc till 5.)
  • You will see my Voltage Curve (screenshot). What you'll see that it's flat until 1050mv. that means. 1050 will never be used, so will never be used any voltage except 831mV @ 1860 MHz and below.
  • Click apply to test this curve
  • If this curve is not stable for you - edit it to your taste: Click on 831mV dot and move it lower, so that lower freq will be used for that voltage, and for 1860 freq next available voltage will be used. Etc. Work with leftmost voltage dots to make everything stable.


This curve drops heat of GPU by at least 30%, which is huge.

THE GUIDE - COIL WHINE
Workaround described here: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/975530

Perform only these steps as Administrator:
1. At a command prompt, run the following command:
reg add HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\Processor /v Capabilities /t REG_DWORD /d 0x0007e066
2. Restart the computer.
3. Run ThrottleStop v8.3 or above and uncheck C1E. Click save.

In theory, it will make CPU a bit hotter while system is idle, because it disables some advanced C-states, but i didn't notice that in monitoring app.
That solved like 99.9% of the noise, and in addition, disabling C1E in ThrottleStop solved noise issue completely.





In undervolting the GPU i got up to step 6. After extracting the file and copying over to the Profiles folder, I open up Afterburner, but profiles 1 though 5 are still grayed out and unclickable. Any ideas?

JArias wrote:
In undervolting the GPU i got up to step 6. After extracting the file and copying over to the Profiles folder, I open up Afterburner, but profiles 1 though 5 are still grayed out and unclickable. Any ideas?


You'll notice Afterburner is creating a profile file with the exact same name as the downloaded file. Edit the downloaded file and copy the contents into a buffer and then open the profile file created by Afterburner, delete all contents, and paste the contents of downloaded file into it and save.

Sorry if that sounds convoluted. You may have to edit the security of the file you are pasting into, so you can edit and save it.

StarJack

djbigbear
Level 7
guys, how do you manually change fan speed if bios has no option to change?

mwest28
Level 7
anyone tried liquid thermal paste to see if there is a big difference?

bagges
Level 7
Does someone know where to buy a bottom case for gl702vmk in germany?

i will post the temp without opolar later at night.

as to the chinese knockoff, actually what you need to get is the exact type or model, mine also the chinese knockoff named tuffware instead opolar. but the one you want to pay attention is the model, get the LC05 or LC06 model, don't get the one that looks like a big square box. i own both models and the square box fan is trash.

*update*
without opolar
73450
i'm confused... the results are more or less the same between opolar and the back cover... i'm really hitting the limit of laptop cooling.