So I wanted to make an extensive post sharing all my findings and modding results for the GL702VSK.
First of all, kudos to onjax for all the great tips he shared with the community. ASUS should share a link to this thread to anyone who's bought GL702 series (just kidding).
Alright, so I've been using CPU undervolt -0.125 mV and GPU flat line undervolt for a very long time and still getting throttling. Here are the steps that I've went for at first:
1. I decided to change the thermal paste to Gelid Extreme, and it only dropped 1 or 2 C°, still throttling;
2. I tried the cooling pad, but didn't notice any drastic differences in temps, I was playing AC:Origins at the time, CPU was throttling;
3. I've ordered "vacuum coolers" as per recommendation from this thread, and albeit using two of them, they made zero difference in temperature behavior;
4. Tried to apply the foil tape, but this seemed to detain more heat in the device, removed it;
5. Tried to run the laptop without the case, and the temps never went above 80 C° during stress tests.
All of this led me to the conclusion that there's no way around drilling the holes. I went to AliExpress and ordered 45 mm circular hole saw, needle files, 2 inch speaker covers, an epoxy glue and black paint marker. I had an old broken keyboard lying around and a wooden plank, so I first experimented with the hole saw on it, since it's a plastic too. Needle files are important here - I was trying to go for a "factory look" as much as I could, and they are used to remove any rough edges after drilling. After I was sure I had the necessary skill to do this, I went on to the laptop. I cut the 45 mm circles out of the foil tape, put them on the fans sticky side up, quickly put the laptop upside down (without assembling), then circled the results with pencil. I repeated it several times to make sure I've got the right placement for the hole patterns and moved on to drilling. After the holes were ready, I made them prettier with needle files, applied epoxy glue on both skeaker grills and case, waited 5 minutes and installed the grills. I left it to cure for around 30 hours and this is the result:
The black paint marker is needed to paint the coolers in black, since they are gray and look pretty inconsistent through the holes. It is acrylic paint, so looks pretty slick after application, but needs to be done in one sitting for all the paint to be applied uniformly. Forgot to take the pictures without the case, sorry.
Long story short, did it help? Yes, significantly. Here's a link to imgur with tiny bit more detail, but I've made this chart to help convince anyone who didn't make the hole mod yet:
My method of testing is this - I use FurMark to push the GPU and the test included in Intel XTU to push the CPU. Before the mod, the CPU would throttle at around 8 or 9 minutes of test, so I never ran it more than that. After the mod I ran it for 15 minutes and the temps were stable. I've surely tested the laptop with Kingdom Come Deliverance, which puts some heavy load on the machine (60-70% load on CPU, 99% load on GPU), and the temps never went above 89 C° with the fans set on Auto, game settings on High presets, fps capped at 95 for G-Sync (my display is overclocked to 100 Hz). The fans at Auto used to spin at 4700 RPM, going up to 5200 RPM when throttled - and now they spin at 3900 RPM, which is way more silent than it used to be. In the chart you can see that there is an overall rise of temps of other components, such as SSD and HDD, but that might be negligible since they are still both in the comfort zone. HDD and SSD temps is the whole other topic which is too big to go through, but they are.
Now, there is one other issue that I've never seen addressed in this thread except for OP's post. There is significant coil whine when the system idles, and since it's been overall less noisy now, it has become more prevalent. Disabling C1E in ThrottleStop completely stopped the buzzing noise, but you still need to set up launching it automatically in Windows tasker or "shell:startup".
After all the mods applied, this machine is awesome. But no customer should ever go through all this trouble at this high a price to get the performance they paid for. If the original intent was to make sure that the customer would fry their machine shortly after the warranty period, it's just plain stupid. What's even more questionable is that they continue to manufacture devices with this overheating chassis - all the meanwhile this thread soon hitting 100 pages.
First of all, kudos to onjax for all the great tips he shared with the community. ASUS should share a link to this thread to anyone who's bought GL702 series (just kidding).
Alright, so I've been using CPU undervolt -0.125 mV and GPU flat line undervolt for a very long time and still getting throttling. Here are the steps that I've went for at first:
1. I decided to change the thermal paste to Gelid Extreme, and it only dropped 1 or 2 C°, still throttling;
2. I tried the cooling pad, but didn't notice any drastic differences in temps, I was playing AC:Origins at the time, CPU was throttling;
3. I've ordered "vacuum coolers" as per recommendation from this thread, and albeit using two of them, they made zero difference in temperature behavior;
4. Tried to apply the foil tape, but this seemed to detain more heat in the device, removed it;
5. Tried to run the laptop without the case, and the temps never went above 80 C° during stress tests.
All of this led me to the conclusion that there's no way around drilling the holes. I went to AliExpress and ordered 45 mm circular hole saw, needle files, 2 inch speaker covers, an epoxy glue and black paint marker. I had an old broken keyboard lying around and a wooden plank, so I first experimented with the hole saw on it, since it's a plastic too. Needle files are important here - I was trying to go for a "factory look" as much as I could, and they are used to remove any rough edges after drilling. After I was sure I had the necessary skill to do this, I went on to the laptop. I cut the 45 mm circles out of the foil tape, put them on the fans sticky side up, quickly put the laptop upside down (without assembling), then circled the results with pencil. I repeated it several times to make sure I've got the right placement for the hole patterns and moved on to drilling. After the holes were ready, I made them prettier with needle files, applied epoxy glue on both skeaker grills and case, waited 5 minutes and installed the grills. I left it to cure for around 30 hours and this is the result:
The black paint marker is needed to paint the coolers in black, since they are gray and look pretty inconsistent through the holes. It is acrylic paint, so looks pretty slick after application, but needs to be done in one sitting for all the paint to be applied uniformly. Forgot to take the pictures without the case, sorry.
Long story short, did it help? Yes, significantly. Here's a link to imgur with tiny bit more detail, but I've made this chart to help convince anyone who didn't make the hole mod yet:
My method of testing is this - I use FurMark to push the GPU and the test included in Intel XTU to push the CPU. Before the mod, the CPU would throttle at around 8 or 9 minutes of test, so I never ran it more than that. After the mod I ran it for 15 minutes and the temps were stable. I've surely tested the laptop with Kingdom Come Deliverance, which puts some heavy load on the machine (60-70% load on CPU, 99% load on GPU), and the temps never went above 89 C° with the fans set on Auto, game settings on High presets, fps capped at 95 for G-Sync (my display is overclocked to 100 Hz). The fans at Auto used to spin at 4700 RPM, going up to 5200 RPM when throttled - and now they spin at 3900 RPM, which is way more silent than it used to be. In the chart you can see that there is an overall rise of temps of other components, such as SSD and HDD, but that might be negligible since they are still both in the comfort zone. HDD and SSD temps is the whole other topic which is too big to go through, but they are.
Now, there is one other issue that I've never seen addressed in this thread except for OP's post. There is significant coil whine when the system idles, and since it's been overall less noisy now, it has become more prevalent. Disabling C1E in ThrottleStop completely stopped the buzzing noise, but you still need to set up launching it automatically in Windows tasker or "shell:startup".
After all the mods applied, this machine is awesome. But no customer should ever go through all this trouble at this high a price to get the performance they paid for. If the original intent was to make sure that the customer would fry their machine shortly after the warranty period, it's just plain stupid. What's even more questionable is that they continue to manufacture devices with this overheating chassis - all the meanwhile this thread soon hitting 100 pages.
TornaD-oz wrote:
So I wanted to make an extensive post sharing all my findings and modding results for the GL702VSK.
First of all, kudos to onjax for all the great tips he shared with the community. ASUS should share a link to this thread to anyone who's bought GL702 series (just kidding).
Alright, so I've been using CPU undervolt -0.125 mV and GPU flat line undervolt for a very long time and still getting throttling. Here are the steps that I've went for at first:
1. I decided to change the thermal paste to Gelid Extreme, and it only dropped 1 or 2 C°, still throttling;
2. I tried the cooling pad, but didn't notice any drastic differences in temps, I was playing AC:Origins at the time, CPU was throttling;
3. I've ordered "vacuum coolers" as per recommendation from this thread, and albeit using two of them, they made zero difference in temperature behavior;
4. Tried to apply the foil tape, but this seemed to detain more heat in the device, removed it;
5. Tried to run the laptop without the case, and the temps never went above 80 C° during stress tests.
All of this led me to the conclusion that there's no way around drilling the holes. I went to AliExpress and ordered 45 mm circular hole saw, needle files, 2 inch speaker covers, an epoxy glue and black paint marker. I had an old broken keyboard lying around and a wooden plank, so I first experimented with the hole saw on it, since it's a plastic too. Needle files are important here - I was trying to go for a "factory look" as much as I could, and they are used to remove any rough edges after drilling. After I was sure I had the necessary skill to do this, I went on to the laptop. I cut the 45 mm circles out of the foil tape, put them on the fans sticky side up, quickly put the laptop upside down (without assembling), then circled the results with pencil. I repeated it several times to make sure I've got the right placement for the hole patterns and moved on to drilling. After the holes were ready, I made them prettier with needle files, applied epoxy glue on both skeaker grills and case, waited 5 minutes and installed the grills. I left it to cure for around 30 hours and this is the result:
The black paint marker is needed to paint the coolers in black, since they are gray and look pretty inconsistent through the holes. It is acrylic paint, so looks pretty slick after application, but needs to be done in one sitting for all the paint to be applied uniformly. Forgot to take the pictures without the case, sorry.
Long story short, did it help? Yes, significantly. Here's a link to imgur with tiny bit more detail, but I've made this chart to help convince anyone who didn't make the hole mod yet:
My method of testing is this - I use FurMark to push the GPU and the test included in Intel XTU to push the CPU. Before the mod, the CPU would throttle at around 8 or 9 minutes of test, so I never ran it more than that. After the mod I ran it for 15 minutes and the temps were stable. I've surely tested the laptop with Kingdom Come Deliverance, which puts some heavy load on the machine (60-70% load on CPU, 99% load on GPU), and the temps never went above 89 C° with the fans set on Auto, game settings on High presets, fps capped at 95 for G-Sync (my display is overclocked to 100 Hz). The fans at Auto used to spin at 4700 RPM, going up to 5200 RPM when throttled - and now they spin at 3900 RPM, which is way more silent than it used to be. In the chart you can see that there is an overall rise of temps of other components, such as SSD and HDD, but that might be negligible since they are still both in the comfort zone. HDD and SSD temps is the whole other topic which is too big to go through, but they are.
Now, there is one other issue that I've never seen addressed in this thread except for OP's post. There is significant coil whine when the system idles, and since it's been overall less noisy now, it has become more prevalent. Disabling C1E in ThrottleStop completely stopped the buzzing noise, but you still need to set up launching it automatically in Windows tasker or "shell:startup".
After all the mods applied, this machine is awesome. But no customer should ever go through all this trouble at this high a price to get the performance they paid for. If the original intent was to make sure that the customer would fry their machine shortly after the warranty period, it's just plain stupid. What's even more questionable is that they continue to manufacture devices with this overheating chassis - all the meanwhile this thread soon hitting 100 pages.
to place the speaker covers you removed the part as chromed plastic? with these values I am seriously tempted to do so ... What cover speakers did you buy?
