GL504GS SCAR II Maniac liquid metal guide of repasting

[McCoy]

So, it should be done …

Ladies & gentlemens, here is the vicious repasting report on GL504GS, please welcome!
What did I take for my journey …

DISCLAIMER: DO NOT *I REPEAT* DO NOT DO THIS! IT IS NOT AN INSTRUCTIONS! IT IS JUST AN EXPERIENCE - YOU WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY!

• Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal Thermal Interface
  
• Thermal Grizzly Thermal Pads (100*100*0.5mm)
  
• Toilet paper (in case I **** myself if something ot wrong
  
• Isolation tape
  

What's under the hood?

I will skip disassembly because there is nothing interesting actually


Step 1
When I first saw this, I thought: "Man! These assembling line guys really hate their job!" ASUS, why you spend so much money on marketing and R&D, but not putting proper paster in proper way. Dusguisting … the even cut costs on thermal pads. Total mess!

Then I took toilet paper, alcohol and started tearing off this gum-like substance away from laptop guts. It took 1.5+ hour. But well, look:


Step 1 minus 1
Oh sh... I forgot to detach batter cord. Please be aware, this little mistake may cost you SCAR II! Detach this cable FIRST! BEFORE DOING Disassembly!


Step 2
After I used toilet paper once again, I took duct tape and started to isolated everything around crystal. Look how it looks like:


Step 3
Then I applied thermal pads on GPU memory:

Then I applied thermal pads on CPU power nodes:

And then on GPU power nodes:


… and then I realized: that 100*100 is way much! Like, I've used 10% of total area of these pads in kit. Nevermind.

Step 4
Moment of truth .. the LIQUID METAL!
After some alcohol cleaning I was ready to drop (the bass?)
GTX 1070 was first in queue (but not the list), these LITTLE drop of liquid metal IS WAY MUCH FOR BOTH CPU + GPU! YES!


Well, after working with tampons it get to surfaces really easily!


And heatsink surface was updated with liquid metal too:


Then I assembled those part all together, and put my PC on table … there was only one step left:

Step 4
Cleaning all these mess made by myself:

Most difficult part of all these procedures for me …

Step 5
When I was ready to launch I forgot to plug-in battery …

After I was ready to PUSH THE BUTTON (The power button), the feeling of moment of truth came …

AND GOSH!! I was never that happy hearing these creepy sound on startup!

… and I forgot to plug in CPU fan(((

The result

[Tor_Spo]

TX2000 wrote:
i ended up replacing the thermal pads with K5-Pro. temps are good so far but not worried if the pad did contact or not. Also i just put the paste in a syringe because that stuff gets everywhere.

imo too much is too much, you will se when you take off the heat sink next time.

[TX2000]

Tor_Spo wrote:
imo too much is too much, you will se when you take off the heat sink next time.

i cleaned the excess when i put the heat sink on

[PowerPein]

I replace it with liquid metal (thermal grizzly conducttonaut) and the rest of the fridge: thermal grizzly kryonaut. Thermal conductivity: ~78 W/(m*K) and ~13 W/(m*K). CPU and GPU based on the test program at full load maximum 75-78 °C, without cooling beds. With cooling beds: 73 °C. (100% CPU with 3800 MHz), 100% GPU with 1780 MHz). Far Cry 5: New Dawn full graphics settings used: 70-73 °C. But original thermal paste: 100% CPU with 2400!! MHz cpu clock: 95 °C !!! 1 week used and i need replace first time on kryonaut. 1 year later the video card fan had to be replaced and then I put liquid metal in it.
The thing is, I used the brown Teflon tape to protect the video card capacitors.
What I do not understand is why is the cheapest thermal conductive paste placed in such a machine? For the first time, the paste broke properly. It was full of bubble traces.
Let's say you are not sure if you can replace it with liquid metal, so people would rather use regular paste or have it replaced by a specialist.

[mar_ga]

TX2000 wrote:
i ended up replacing the thermal pads with K5-Pro. temps are good so far but not worried if the pad did contact or not. Also i just put the paste in a syringe because that stuff gets everywhere.

Hi ! Any update ?
How's the difference PADS / K5-Pro ?
Any Difference when look at GPU/CPU temp ?

[ultraharrysingh]

can i use apply the noctua h1 and not do the thermal pads? I a new to this and my laptop throttles pretty much every time and even when not playing games. Can anybody help me with this tedious process? i havent bought any thermal paste or thermal pads yet but please do suggest what all should i get

[TX2000]

mar_ga wrote:
Hi ! Any update ?
How's the difference PADS / K5-Pro ?
Any Difference when look at GPU/CPU temp ?

it its working fine so far. a little better for me because in some areas the pads didn't touched well.
I just did it for peace of mind mostly.

[gieffe22]

I just repasted my 704gw with noctuua nth2 for cpu and gpu die, leaving the horrid stock thermal paste on vrms... Results? i don't know what other people done here with liquid metal, but my result are similar with a traditional good paste.

On gaming i'm at about 75-78 for gpu and 75-82 for cpu, in turbo mode. Cinebench r20 goes from 3.3ghz at 95° to 3.9 at 78°, scoring from 2650 to 3050 (huge improvement), and gpu loses about 10 degrees in average games.

I repeat, i only repasted cpu and gpu with a non conductive (but good) paste, leaving the gum stock paste on vrm and just reclosing (many other done like me so i was pretty sure it have been worked and it is!)

Another friend do the same with his scar 1 going from 98° in cpu to 85, and from 91 from gpu to 82. So don't risk with LM on a laptop, because there's a GIANT risk of it goes over the heatsink, and actually a good paste is sufficient to a proper cooling, maybe LM is another 5 to 10° better but worth the risk if the lap is fully performing with a good non conductive paste? for me the answer is NO.