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GL502VS Cooling Improvement Solution!? **UPDATE**

cdrshm
Level 7
EDIT: 4.2.2017 - So i did a more permanent fix using the tape used for heat ducts, its sticky and holds its shape. this work truly works. I even put tape on the bottom of the heat sink. I play Crysis 2 max settings around 78 degrees C. The house is about 73 degrees F. If anyone has any recommendations on a game to test the temp's let me know! (Idle Temps)

So i have the GL502VS with the 1070 and as many others on here experience some hot temperatures. I know one solution is to under-volt, which does help.

So I decided to turn my laptop over take the bottom off and turn it on and check out how everything is working, of course with that alone the temperatures were lower, so i put on a bench mark to really get the fans spinning.. and using very technical/sophisticated equipment i tested the air flow and temperature of the air. OK i didn't have any sophisticated equipment, i just put my face lips in font of the heat sinks to feel the air. I could feel the hot air, and quite a bit of "cooler" air.

So if you look close you see fairly large gaps (Click for Gaps!) between the fan and the heat sink, and i "think" air also follows the path of least restriction. So not thought the fins, but out the large gaps. All that i had laying around was electrical tape, so i did my best to cover the gaps (Gaps-be-Gone) to push more air thought he fins and hopefully more heat will be pushed out. Now from the quick tests it does "seem" to run cooler, i would say a few degrees but i did not have the time to fully test. I also don't know what its like on the other side of the heat sink fan, i may need to seal that up. I just didn't have the time tonight to address it.

I also need to get something more suited than electrical tape, maybe a high heat tape or something? (Ideas?)

So if anyone is interested in trying to see if they notice a difference i would be very curious to hear the results, or some true benchmarks.

Thanks

Chris
33,588 Views
36 REPLIES 36

Hi everyone,

i just wanna tell you how i fixed the issue of this laptop overheating, it is a hi-risk fix but it is worth it.

You have to change the cooling paste of the CPU and GPU with this kind of paste :

http://www.coollaboratory.com/product/coollaboratory-liquid-pro/

Here is a video showing part of a aplication to our laptop( warning there is a lack of some steps needed to aply the metal liquid.)



My steps to apply this "metal paste".

open the back of the laptop, disconnect the battery and disassemble the cooling system, first the fans and then the copper dissipation system.

then with alcohol and cotton sticks proceed to clean everything of the old paste.

In the video they use thermal conducting sheet, i used non-conductive paste to the parts around the cpu and gpu(power managent).

so here we go with the risky part:

1-To avoid if possible risk i covered around the cpu and gpu with kapton Tape.

2-Then, with the kit i bough, comes sandpaper ,you have to sand very carefully the copper , cpu and gpu.

4-Now clean everything very thoroughly again, at this point there is some copper and metal dust from the sanding that needs to be removed before doing anything else, use the alcohol sheet that comes with the kit.

3-then as the videos shows apply a minimun cuantity in the center of the copper of the cpu and gpy extending it with a cotton stick as the video shows, its better to apply less than u need and apply more later than apply too much(my advise).

4-Now we have to do the same to the gpu and cpu tops, very carefully (YOU CANNOT let loose the liquid metal or your computer is good as a brick) so apply a very small ball and extend it with a lot of care being very carefully to not let it fall of the top, it necesary put more liquid metal only if u are not able to extend it around all the surface, be carefull beacause not being able to extend it could be a product of a improper sanding and cleaning after .

5-Now, i applied the non-conductive thermal paste to the coils and power management around the gpu and cpu then put the copper system again with great care.

6-Fix the srews in the correct order(1-8),mount the fans and screw them ,connect the battery and put the backplate again.

7-Test it.


After this repaste my laptop went from 95ºC(CPU)(with turboboost,and GPU at 100% and taping the fans as described in the first post) to 75ºC(CPU)(with turboboost and GPU at 100%, with the fans taped again).

The side effect is that in idle now the gpu warms the cpu, because before this repaste the idle GPu was around 60º and idle CPU was around 45º and now both in idle are around 55ºC.

As i said at the beginning this is not for everyone, i would recommend waching videos of liquid metal repasting before triying to do it but the results are awesome, more or less a 20ºC decrease of average and far less noisy.

As i have seen in the other images it seems that in the revisions Asus added a third fan to cool it better (even it is evidenly a
quick fix for the revisions), so i will try to simulate it with a cooling base that pump air into the middle air intake with turbine fans to cool it better, with a 3D print ninjaflex joint and some turbine fans.

ColinMacLaren wrote:
I also applied the tape. Without external fan, undervolting and running Heaven benchmark for an hour it settles around 70°C GPU and 80°C on the CPU with short spikes to 83°C. It will probably go a little bit higher in summer? What is a safe temperature for the CPU? I remember the times when you were supposed to not let it hit 60°C.


Yeah max temps have risen quite a bit over the years, and mobile chips have even higher thresholds.

According to the 7700hq's ark page the max temp is 100C. Someone can correct me if i'm wrong, but I think generally speaking anything under 90 is considered 'okay'. Obviously lower is better, and will help with longevity. But you don't need to worry about frying the damn thing in the 80's.

Heck even this monstrosity hangs out in the mid 80's under load. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsQbjSIrSmA

I mean it has a lot beefier hardware in it, but it also weights 13 pounds, and has a much more robust cooling system. lol

xeromist
Moderator
From what I've read, the liquid metal TIMs don't last. You may end up having to redo it vs a high performance traditional paste which would still provide good thermal conductance.
A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. On my desk, I have a work station…

xeromist wrote:
From what I've read, the liquid metal TIMs don't last. You may end up having to redo it vs a high performance traditional paste which would still provide good thermal conductance.


Well it`s true that this is a farily new paste , and the new versions are safer (more viscosity) BUT i dont see why they shouldnt last.

But taking into acount what i have done and other people accounts i dont see enought evidence to say that they dont last, in fact i havent see any. as they answer in this forum : https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/762131-anyone-have-long-term-experience-with-liquid-metal-tim/

i was afraid of ruining my 1500 bucks laptop too, so i did my research first and the conclusions couple with my results after 2 two months os usage are that doing it its worthwhile but risky.

xeromist
Moderator
Yes, as you say it's relatively new and there are different formulas. So I would just keep an eye on the temps and feel free to make a new thread to document its longevity. Thanks!
A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. On my desk, I have a work station…

I solved my temp issues on my GL702VS by the utilizing the following:

#1) I repasted using Arctiv mx-4 and using the spread method. <- This gave me 3-4c drop.
#2) I taped the gaps using Blue Painters tape. I found if I used the aluminum heat duct tape I actually got hotter temps (prolly cause heat was being conducted from the heat pipes to the inside of case. <- This gave me another 3-4c drop.
#3) I drilled holes underneath and lined up with the fan intakes <- This gave me another 3-5c drop.

Using these methods in Windows I never saw anything above 78c on cpu and nothing above 70c gpu. (without undervolting)

But in Linux I was still getting spikes to 91c under extreme loading of cpu and gpu at same time. So I undervolted -125 mV in Linux here is how:

If you want a per basis undervolt in terminal use:
sudo bash -c 'wrmsr 0x150 0x80000011f0000000 && wrmsr 0x150 0x80000111f0000000 && wrmsr 0x150 0x80000211f0000000 && wrmsr 0x150 0x80000311f0000000 && wrmsr 0x150 0x80000411f0000000'


If you want it to be at every boot you need to add the following to
/etc/rc.local

modprobe msr
/usr/sbin/wrmsr 0x150 0x80000011f0000000
/usr/sbin/wrmsr 0x150 0x80000111f0000000
/usr/sbin/wrmsr 0x150 0x80000211f0000000
/usr/sbin/wrmsr 0x150 0x80000311f0000000
/usr/sbin/wrmsr 0x150 0x80000411f0000000

exit 0


Of course you'll need to install msr. And this will only work on bootup. If your laptop goes to sleep it WILL revert back to normal VID.

And as always YOU will be responsible for YOUR actions. Do not try what I have done under any circumstances! You WILL void your warranty and possible brick / ruin your system.

Spooky

Well, after 5 months the laptop almost got fried by the liquid metal when it moved outside the cooling pad and i had to clean all the metal TIM, my laptop has only survived because i suspect the electronics shut down all power refered to the gpu and that saved my laptop.

So my conclusion its that after 5 months the experiment has been a partial sucess in the temperature but a failure in the final results because it wasnt designed for laptop use..

Right now its working with high end normal cooling paste and has come back to the normal 93ºC with heavy load.

In the future i will try the new http://www.coollaboratory.com/product/coollaboratory-liquid-metalpad-notebook/ wich is specialy designed for laptops and portable devices