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did my GL702VS repaste, carefull of misinformation

FastM
Level 8
Like many of you I watched that detailed youtube video of the GL702VS repast with Artic Thermal pads and liquid metal past (I bought the artic pads but non-metal Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut paste.

I'm not saying his recommendations are wrong 100% since its possible his laptop is a different revision of mine and the gaps between the mosfets and GDDR modules are different.

I bought the small 50x50x0.5mm artic thermal pad and the large 150x150x1.0mm pad. I even sent him a PM through youtube asking if he was sure the 1.0mm was thick enough for the GDDR modules and he responded yes. (I think he got his info from somewhere else)

Amyway, As I did my installation I was frustrated to discover the 1.0mm pads are not thick enough for the GDDR modules. Also, he recommended the thicker 1.0 on the bigger row A of mosfets which was also way to thick.

Looking at my photo of the GDDR modules, You can clearly see 1.0mm pads are barely making contact. I'm currently running the laptop this way while I wait for the 1.5mm pads to arrive. As a last resort I even added some thermal paste to help fill the gap, You can see just see where the thermal past on the pad is helping make a small amount of contact. When I first booted the system, I immediately started to see graphical glitches/screen tearing in the windows environment. Luckily within 2-3minutes it went away. I think some of the modules weren't making any contact but as everything heated up there was enough expansion to make some contact. At this point the system is running great and I haven't seen any weird screen tearing nor had any crashes. (but I will be replacing the 1mm pads asap).

In the youtube guide he uses the 1.0mm pads on the bigger row A mosfets. Looking at my photo I have the 0.5mm installed on both rows. When I first tried the 1.0mm pads on row A, the copper heat sink gets raised way to high up (also gets put on an angle so its impossible for row B to make proper contact).

What also bugs me is the sizes of thermal pads I ordered. The larger 150x150 are pretty expensive and way to much for this job. Ordering 1 small 50x50x0.5mm for the row A and B of mosfets is more then enough. Then 1 small 50x50x1.5mm for the GDDR modules will also be enough and it would of saved me a lot of money.

Other than all that the GPU/CPU repast went well. I can't see I've noticed a huge drop in temp but these laptops are funny with the fans. They are happy to let the system warm up hotter than I would like and rely on throttleing to control temps. If anything I've noticed my fan speed jumps around a little more than before, meaning it doesn't need to hold a constant higher rpm to maintain temps, they sometimes spin down a little under load.

I run my fans on 50% boost all the time.

My laptop always sits on a AUKEY Laptop Cooler

CPU undervolted 120mv

GPU running a custom curve from 1695mhz@800mv to 1860mhz@900mv

Only playing pubg at the moment with an external 1440p G-SYNC monitor my GPU temps hover around the high 60c's low 70's. The CPU is around the same never going over 75c. The gpu does do a little throttleing with my curve, but games run really well and never crash.

If I run the system with no bottom cover on the cooling pad my GPU will stay in the low 60'c with the CPU doing the same. I also get a solid 1860mhz while gaming with zero throttleing.

My next goal after fixing this repast job is to make but holes in the bottom cover so the fans can get proper airflow. I might even make a third hole in-between the fans to cool those heatpipes directly and further take advantage of the laptop cooler.

Well I think I've said enough for now! will update this when I get my 1.5mm pads and take more pics.
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11 REPLIES 11

revnja
Level 7
Thanks for sharing your experiences with the repaste. I've considered doing this mod myself. Looks to me like you have your temps down to a very acceptable level.

SupraN
Level 7
How did the 1,5mm pads workout?

Hey everyone, it's my first time ever posting ,but here goes..
**BTW, all tests were done at 1080p**

I have the same Model GL702VS which as mentioned above had unacceptable thermals while idle (mid 60's) and games would crash after a SHORT while.. and i do mean short

Since i was aware of this thermal issue previously before i bought the device (it was agreat deal compares to europe so i just couldn't pass it up), i decided to apply liquid metal (conductonaut to be excat) and undervolt both CPU and GPU.

The resoults are as followed: before repasting: CPU thermals were in the 60's while idle and at load they have reached a whooping hundred degrees, all of that without any GPU stressing what so ever. The horror (=:

The GPU stress test wasn't any better, reaching it's upper thermal targer of 80°C within seconds (used heaven benchmark on ultra)

Now let's get down to it. my 7700HQ was able to stay stable at -150 mV and tress tests showed a max temp of 89°C. (AIDIA64, all kinds of Prime 95 and my personal favorite, IntelBurnTestV2on extreme setting which can really takes a CPU apart..)

Sooo there was a long way to go.

Upon opening the laptop up iv'e realized that the thermal paste was horribly apllied,and all dried up. so bad in fact, that i thought this must be the work of disgruntled employee. the goop on the VRMs was no better..

Ok so enough complaining and more actions!

old goop cleaned , old thermal paste gone, conductonaut applied, close up and here we go!

well.. not really.. you see, what i have later realized is that the LM was only half of it. a VERY VERY important part was to seal the gap between the heat pipes and the fans, since all i'd say around 50% of the hot air was being blown back inside!

OK, so i reopened and tried my best with the limited fine motoric skills that i have , to fashion a decent seal using M33 knock-off electrical tape (which worked like magic by the way!)

And here some resoults: CPU under full load without graphics tested was an AMAZING 71°C.

Prime 95 + heaven running simultaneously stayed undere 89°C on the CPU at all time, which is pretty great concidering the graphics card was still using all of his might and wasn't undervolted yet.

undervolting the GPU to 1733 @ 800 mV was surprisingly stable. so i chnaged the curve with MSI afterburner to a steady line (not so much of a curve haha) since i was trying to reach max preformance while not having a jet engine in my living room 😛

and the resoult are as followed: while gaming very demanding titles where CPU+GPU utilization we at aroung 100% pretty much all of the time, my cpu reached a temprature of 89°C and the GPU 77°C. now.. i know that might not be the resoult that you guys might have wanted to hear, but i must say i was very pleased with the resoults.

thoughts on drilling holes in the bottom part..
when tested without the lid, the computer not only ran at a MUCH lower temp of ~70ish. the GPU never hit 65°C at full load while OVERCLOCKED to 110MHz on the core and 250 more on the memory, and still kept at it while the CPU never got over 70!
all and all ,incredible! is it worth it though.. i don't know.. if i wanted such a modded Laptop i might have been better off buying a PC.

few things i forgot to mention

1. I used arctic pads for the VRM's (ARCTIC Thermal Pad ,50 x 50 x 1.0 mm)

2. only very demanding games ran the laptop to the upper 80's. most of them didn't even reach more than 68c. howeve, since some of them made the graphics card reach 80c despite the underclock being stable at 1733 MHz 850mV. i managed to take down a notch to 800mV and that made all the doffrence in the world

3.also, all of the temps aboImageImageImageImageImageve are when the fans were at max 50%. meaning thet at a100% thermal and clock speed (for the GPU) would be much better. and louder.

4. thermal-grizzly claims that conductonaut LM can do 73 W-m-1-K-1. basically, thermal effectiveness that is about 8 times better than any thermal paste.
I think its a flat out lie! and here's why
Galinstan, or better known as liquid metal, only have a 16.5 W-m-1-K-1. so unless they created a whole new compound in their lab,(which they didn't since they clearly state that they have Gallium ,Indium and Tin in their compound and since other ratios will not alloy or will be very very hard to..)
I highly doubt their advertisements.. bottom line, LM is twice as much as thermally conductive a very good thermal paste. at best.
proof: http://www.chemistrylearner.com/galinstan.html

conclusions: buying this laptop for what i paid was , all downsides included, a great deal. for people who have the time and patience to MOD, CUT UNDERVOLT REPASTE LOVE AND CARESS IT.

SupraN wrote:
How did the 1,5mm pads workout?


So.. a month after doing my repaste I had a hardware issue (laptop wouldn't stay tuned off and internal NIC completely disappeared) and was able to get the system replaced under warranty.


Since getting a new one I haven't redone my paste job.. however I will do it eventually. I have however made 2 holes in the bottom cover directly over each fan (roughly the size of the fan itself). With my CPU undervolted to -120mv and the GPU on a flat curve of 800mv@1746mhz my CPU stays around 80c and my GPU stays around 70c.

Like ItaPita just mentioned running the laptop with the entire bottom cover off yields even better results but obviously its not practical.


Question for ItaPita, are you sure the 1.0mm pads for the VRAM are making good contact?

Madexi
Level 7
Hi! I have Asus GL703GS and I wanted to repaste + change the thermal pads for it. I used Noctua NT-H1 and Arctic Thermal Pads (1mm). As a result CPU temps dropped around 7-10C and throttling was gone. GPU temps rised 1-2C but that might also be because the VRAM modules can now actually make proper contact with the cooling system heating up the GPU. I have some pictures of the results. As you can see all the VRAM modules and VRM make good contact but with the mosfets there might be something like 0.1mm gap. But when screwed together it might actually close.

E: I closed the gap by lowering the pads on VRAM modules. Maybe 0.5mm would have been better for them. Now they are maybe 0.7mm.

Madexi wrote:
Hi! I have Asus GL703GS and I wanted to repaste + change the thermal pads for it. I used Noctua NT-H1 and Arctic Thermal Pads (1mm). As a result CPU temps dropped around 7-10C and throttling was gone. GPU temps rised 1-2C but that might also be because the VRAM modules can now actually make proper contact with the cooling system heating up the GPU. I have some pictures of the results. As you can see all the VRAM modules and VRM make good contact but with the mosfets there might be something like 0.1mm gap. But when screwed together it might actually close.

E: I closed the gap by lowering the pads on VRAM modules. Maybe 0.5mm would have been better for them. Now they are maybe 0.7mm.


how high are your temps while gaming? Im considering replacing the 1mm pads with 1,5 as suggested but i'm not sure whether it will make any difference.

Matze2k0 wrote:
how high are your temps while gaming? Im considering replacing the 1mm pads with 1,5 as suggested but i'm not sure whether it will make any difference.


Just use something like K5 Pro. It has better heat conductivity than thermal pads and you don't need to worry about thickness, since it's like a really thick paste kind of thing. That's the same thing that comes from the factory, instead of the pads.

FULLMETALJACKET7 wrote:
Just use something like K5 Pro. It has better heat conductivity than thermal pads and you don't need to worry about thickness, since it's like a really thick paste kind of thing. That's the same thing that comes from the factory, instead of the pads.


i'll try that thanks. The 1,5 mm Pads are worse than the 1mm . The GPUs temps are way to high at the moment. Going to replace them again and order the K5 for further testing.

Hello guys!

I would like to share my own experience with repasting and applying thermal pads.

84094
Stock thermal paste on motherboard after 1.5 years of usage
84095
Stock thermal paste on heatsink after 1.5 years of usage

Thermal paste used: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut (conductivity - 12.5W/m*K)
Thermal pads used: Thermal Grizzly minus pad 8 (1mm thickness, conductivity - 8W/m*K)

Application:
Thermal paste applied to CPU and GPU
Thermal pads applied to MOSFETs and VRAM

84096
Pads applied

All I can say - for me, replacing thermal paste with thermal pads from MOSFTEs and VRAM resulted in constant crashes and system reboots after 10-20 secs of gaming.

So, when I opened laptop again - heatsink wasnt having good contact with CPU and GPU due to thermal pads raising heatsink. So, I replaced pads back with thermal paste - it works well now. However, applying a very thin layer for VRAM and MOSFETs isnt a good idea since heatsink doesnt touch the components well, so I applied a bit more thermal paste there (just squizzed a small drop onto every single MOSFET and VRAM and screwed heatsink back on). Everything stays cool and no throttling noticed.

84097
Not enough paste on a CPU (crystal to the right) as well as not enough thermal paste on MOSFETs and VRAM

84098
CPU (crystal to the right) definetely didnt have enough thermal paste. Moreover, most of MOSFETs and VRAM were not touching heatsink.

By the way, I am successfully undervolted my CPU for -150mV. After heavy gaming, CPU stays in high 70-low 80 (no thermal/power throttling ) and GPU stays in high 60-low 70. I am pretty pleased with a result since I had same CPU temps but throttling for 10-15% and GPU was staying mid 80 before repasting.

All in all, not all the time replacing paste with pads is a good idea since decent thermal pad will have worse conductivity than mediocre thermal paste (look at my data provided above). It played a huge role in my case and took me some hours to figure everything out.