Hello,
The liquid metal on the CPU needs to be checked, if it has moved off the CPU DIE it will start to get extremely dry which can impact the surface of the cooler and CPU DIE itself so do this sooner rather than later.
If you remove the heatsink do everything in contact with it, that's a full clean with the following.
CPU = Thermal Grizzy Liquid metal
CPU VRM = Thermal Putty
GPU = Thermal Paste
GPU VRM = Thermal Putty
GPU Memory chips = Thermal Putty
Motherboard
Heatsink
In terms of lowering temperatures, yes if this is the 14900HX you can lower the boost ratio and undervolt slightly.
For example if you were to use ThrottleStop or Intel XTU you can decrease the Turbo Boost ratio on the P-Cores and run -80mV.
Running all the P-Cores at x40 will do a good temperature drop.
Running all the P-Cores at x50 depends on the thermal paste so might still go 90
ThrottleStop v9.7.3: www.techspot.com/downloads/7289-throttlestop.html
When you run press on the FIVR Button
You will see an Unlock Adjustable Voltage Section, Tick the box
Move the slider in the Offset section, negative only see here its -80.1mV
Then when you press on OK check the changes in something like hardware monitor
For Boost ratios get back to the FIVR section and its in the Turbo Groups box. Change these numbers, here I use 40 which means all the P-Cores will run 4GHz.
You can also change the E-Cores Boost Ratio by selection the button to switch modes, here I set them to 20 but it appears 24 is lowest value unless Turbo Boost is completely disabled.
Again check settings in Hardware monitor or similar program.
These can help with temperatures but cooling efficiency is always a priority, you do not want to be masking a problem so always make sure it's working fine to begin with.
If you decide to try ThrottleStop please be careful with the options, it can set the voltages so you must make sure you are running a negative offset.
Are you able to clean / replace the paste yourself / liquid metal?
Some things to consider before working on the laptop motherboard, I've added this as a general overview in the event others are reading. I have mentioned ESD as it is important to consider, everyone ignores it and chances are things will be ok but I have to mention as there are risks especially if you generate ESD whilst working on the laptop (do not use a vacuum cleaner on it or a regular brush)
Electrostatic Discharge is a real thing (ESD)
If you are running around in the type of clothing that will create a spark this is dangerous, people will often overlook it but if you are about to work on a computer motherboard you should be grounded and use ESD mats / ESD wrist strap to avoid such issues.
Cleaning methods
There is a lot of stuff on youtube, please watch with caution as these may look like said person / video knows what they are doing but some are strange even those acting in a professional capacity.
Compressed air cans / dusters
These are aerosol based compressed air sprays that are used to remove dust, useful but can be used incorrectly especially on fans. You might be tempted to spray the fans and watch them spin really fast as the compressed air will cause the fan blades to rotate the fan, it might even sound really fast and make a whining kind of sound as you do this with a puff of dust. Just note, these fans are designed to spin at a certain speed (RPM) and by exposing the full force of an air duster you will cause the fan to spin much faster than it was intended to spin, in the process killing the fan bearings. Never do this, if you must clean a fan do so without causing it to spin, manually clean the blades with a cotton swabs / IPA or other depending on how bad they are.
Using tools to scrape thermal paste / putty
It's your laptop / device and choice to make on whether you want to use this method to remove large parts of dry thermal paste. The safest choice is not to do this as if your tool slips and chips a surface mounted component you will be in a worse place than before. Thermal paste cleaner and cotton swabs with IPA is safer, let the solutions break down the pastes and do the work, go slow and take your time.
Cleaning brushes
You might see someone stating to use a toothbrush or brush on the motherboard to help remove thermal paste or dust. These are Nylon based products that cause static, never use a toothbrush on a motherboard. For correct cleaning there are ESD safe brushes so if these are not in use stay with the IPA only and cotton swabs.
Correct use of thermal paste
Direct DIE applications like in laptops you must spread the paste out to ensure full contact.
Thermal putty is not the same as Thermal paste
These are both Thermal Interface materials but should not be interchanged with each other. That is do not use thermal paste in place of Thermal Putty. Thermal Putty is designed to be more efficient at heat transfer where the gaps are generally much larger.
The science behind this is quite simple, consider the particles in thermal paste to be 1cm in size and thermal putty particle size to be 2cm.
If there is a gap which is 2cm wide, it takes just 1 thermal putty particle to fill this void.
Thermal paste will require 2x1cm particles stacked on each other to fill the same void.
And this is the difference in thermal conductivity / heat transfer efficiency as the particles have their own internal heat transfer, the binding solution around them (paste) and with 2 together there is a surface to surface contact resistance. Compared to just 1x2cm particle this is the difference in performance and heat transfer and when you take this down to a micro level it can transform cooling efficiency by a significant amount.
A product intended to fill larger gaps is therefore more efficient at filling larger gaps and one which is intended for smaller gaps, like thermal paste does much better for smaller gaps. With this said, it really does depend on the gap and mounting pressure of the heatsink, most of the laptops are fixed pressure on the CPU and GPU but the other areas are free floating and it's down to the heatsink on top to either make contact or not. This means any difference in manufacturing, slight bends and offsets will see differences between all laptops, so thermal putty is the choice for this.
Liquid metal is corrosive
Treat this with extreme caution, it should not get on to the motherboard or touch any component or soldered part. It reacts with copper, Tin, Aluminium and if in contact with solder can weaken it significantly to the point of causing it to detach. The small (extremely small) surface mounted components are impacted by this so keep liquid metal away. When cleaning the CPU of liquid metal do not wipe then move your hand / wipe over the motherboard, you are asking for trouble should liquid metal fall off the wipe. Protect the board, use A4 paper and cover everything, make a square around the CPU so that any spills the paper will take.
Cleaning Liquid metal
It's tricky, if you use IPA it will just make the liquid metal ball up together.
Thermal paste cleaner does the opposite and makes it spread out but will eventually catch it.
You can still use this to your advantage, like IPA and cotton swabs will allow you to gather the liquid metal, then use syringe or de-solder pump to suck the liquid metal. It does take time but just go slow and be sure that nothing remains on the CPU and protective film.
Thermal Putty
This needs to be cleaned correctly and reapplied as over time it will become brittle / flake off. In this state where it has cracked and fallen apart if you leave it the heatsink will not mount correctly as the "broken pieces" will not line up. You can end up with "broken pieces" stacked on top each other, worse case is this can influence the heatsink contact in that area especially since it is a floating design in this part.
Cotton swabs are needed
IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol)
Thermal Paste Remover
Syringe or de-solder pump
GPU chip Green part
This contains small surface mounted capacitors which are delicate, use only cotton swabs in this area with IPA solution, be gentle and go slow.
GPU DIE (silver rectangle)
Use thermal paste remover cleaning wipe but do not let the wipe catch on the capacitors, go slow and cut the wipe into small pieces so you can easily control. Alternatively you can use cotton swabs with more IPA but thermal paste remover does a better job on larger hard thermal paste patches. After cleaning use IPA / swab to remove residues as a final cleaning coat.
Memory chips
Small Thermal paste wipe and IPA after.
VRM
Thermal paste wipe will be ok as this will remove the larger areas easier then use swabs with IPA for final cleaning.
How clean is good enough?
You need all surfaces to be clean and flat, free of thermal paste. Edges around parts do not need to be perfect so if some old thermal paste / putty remains it will be ok but generally the cleaner things are it will work out better. With any areas covered in Liquid metal you have no choice, it needs to be 100% clean on the protective barrier, top of the CPU Die and as much as possible removed around the CPU DIE.
Here is an example of clean
How much thermal Putty to use
Large pea sized blobs are fine and it can be messy, don't worry too much as your heatsink will compress this nicely.
Thermal paste cleaning wipes example
https://www.arctic.de/en/MX-Cleaner/ACTCP00033A
Battery Warning
Disconnect the battery before you start cleaning, it will likely have a metal sliding latch which you need to move, then the battery clip will pull off. Check videos for your specific laptop to see how it is removed. (G16 2023/2024) will need the 3rd cooling fan removed for full access.
