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Magnetic sensor/switch issue on Asus G53SW-XN1 when closing the lid

Sadozai
Level 8
I ordered my ASUS G53SW-XN1 from newegg back in August. When it arrived it worked for the first week or so and then I powered it off and didn't use it for two weeks afterwards. But then the problem occurred that it just wouldn't power up. It was practically impossible for me to RMA it because it was out of states and had to resort to some other means. For days it lay dead and I had no idea what to do with it. Scouring the internet in desperation I came to a clue that led me to the touch pad ribbon issue. I opened it up removed it form the connector and voilà! it worked. And since then a month has passed I am using it without the touch pad, status indicator LEDs and the lid closing functionality. But I got fed up and tried to make it work cuz other than the touch pad; the status LEDs and lid closing functionality are a must.

I have tried to reconnect the ribbon and it works as long as the lid is not closed. If I close the lid while it is running the system goes to sleep or whatever option is selection in the window's power options but when I resume all the lights are lit, the keyboard illuminated and the HDD working, in shot the system keeps running but the display just vanishes, its black screen. And if I power off the system it wont power up again. Now that I have come to know and I am sure of it that it was never the touch pad ribbon problem but it is the magnetic field sensor issue. Again, I started the gruelling search on the internet and yet again I stumbled upon a solution from some fella who used some mild magnet and rubbed it at the lower right area of the touch pad where the lid magnet comes in proximity when lid gets closed and it worked for him but I am still not clear how it is done. I mean how and where exactly to rub the magnet and which type and size of magnet should specifically be used to rub it and in which state on or off to rub it and for how long and in which direction etc. Too many questions I know. But I am in a dire need of help here, remember it will be a real drudgery for me to RMA it from outside the states and will have to wait for like 2 to 3 months to get it back. Not only I'll have to spend extra bucks but also have to cope with the trepidation of getting it back dysfunctional. You never know so I want to try every other safe option before RMAing it finally.

I'll be grateful and much obliged if guys who know about it or have fixed this issue, post the steps they did to make it work or any other solution that might work. Thanks in anticipation.
ASUS G53SW ROG Laptop
Intel Core i7 2630QM @ Stock Clock
Nvidia Geforce GTX 460M 1.5GB GDDR5 @ Stock Clocks (for now)
14GB DDR3 1333 MHz (G-Skill + Hynix)
SAMSUNG 830 128GB SATA3 SSD + Seagate Momentus 500GB 7200rpm SATA3 HDD
HP x23LED FHD 1080p monitor
Microsoft Lifecam Cinema HD 720p, Logitech M315 2.4G Wireless Mouse
JVC HA-RX700 Headphones, ASUS ROG G1 Backpack with ASUS Eee Sticks 😛
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79 REPLIES 79

Sadozai wrote:
So you are most probably right about that but grounding can be done effortlessly through the touch pad ribbon and that's why I doubt that this metal strip is working for grounding when all under and around it is plastic. Besides they don't need this big a metal strip that needs tightening screws for just grounding.

I haven't seen any TPs that relied only on the cable for grounding; they all have some sort of chassis ground connection to the TP's grounding pad. In the Elan implementation below, the metal "cage" over the TP is there solely to provide that connection. (This cage ground is a fairly common approach.) At first it seemed like "over-engineering," but now that I've seen how vulnerable the G74's "tape" ground system is, I appreciate its reliability. I replaced my G74's tape ground with a metal one.

3965

Back to the point, though, if the metal bar in yours is the button assembly, and if the lid switch is in it, as suspected, do you think you'll try replacing the button assembly? Or just continue using the magnet fix when necessary? Either way, I hope Asus is following your discussion so they know exactly what to fix when other owners send their laptops in with this problem. (I don't mean to make Asus techs sound incompetent, but it's kind of amazing how many reports I've read of RMA'd laptops that came back with the exact same problem they left with!)

BrodyBoy wrote:
(This cage ground is a fairly common approach.) At first it seemed like "over-engineering," but now that I've seen how vulnerable the G74's "tape" ground system is, I appreciate its reliability. I replaced my G74's tape ground with a metal one.


Yeah tape ground system doesn't sound much reliable. Where specifically did you replace your tape ground in your G74 and how? I'm curious because for one its interesting and I wanna know, for the other I have seen yellow tapes in my G53 I still wonder if they are for grounding, so if need arises I may replace them with metal grounding. There is a yellow tape over the TP ribbon connector in the G53, I wonder if it has got anything to do with grounding. I suspect this though because I dont see any grounding motive at that spot because the tape just sticks over the ribbon which is thoroughly insulated. But still its interesting and I have to find it. I'm smelling another hypothesis...:D

BrodyBoy wrote:
Back to the point, though, if the metal bar in yours is the button assembly, and if the lid switch is in it, as suspected, do you think you'll try replacing the button assembly? Or just continue using the magnet fix when necessary? Either way, I hope Asus is following your discussion so they know exactly what to fix when other owners send their laptops in with this problem. (I don't mean to make Asus techs sound incompetent, but it's kind of amazing how many reports I've read of RMA'd laptops that came back with the exact same problem they left with!)


Due to the fact I am a bit busy these days, I am not venturing into reopening the laptop and dismantling the button assembly so as to get to the nexus of evil.:mad: I may have to replace the entire button assembly if tempering with the lid magnetic switch doesn't work. And of course I'll have to procure this part first in the case of replacement. I might go with replacing the lid magnet with a very mild magnet too, in case I am stuck.

You have no idea how desperate I am to get to this lid switch and smother it, stifle it, strangle it with my bare hands. I wanna tighten the noose around its neck so that it never ever again raises its ugly head. You can feel my pain here...:D.

Well all jokes aside, for now I am resorting to the magnet solution which is working well for me. I have to use it twice since I discovered this method. But I know this is not a permanent fix as the problem has resurfaced once after the application of magnet therapy so I know that at some point in time I'll have to take the plunge or bite the bullet whichever way you take it.

I am still caught in a fix. I dont wanna RMA it but the problem is there too. When I discovered cases, involving this problem, where the supposedly repaired laptops came back dysfunctional and defective or even worse with LCD screen damaged, my RMA plan soured on and I looked for solutions online. And that's how I got this far. Therefore I am not considering RMA an option beacuse its chance and a lot of uncertainty...JRd1st's quote...RMA is like "a box of chocolates"; you never know what you're gonna get.

The only apprehension I have right now is that if I am unable to fix this problem for good I'll have to live with this problem and its temporary solution, THE MAGNET. Although I am confident about rectifying this problem permanently yet there are certain uncertainties, which I think I have to deal with.


I hope too that ASUS is following our discussion so that they know exactly what to fix when other owners send their laptops in with this problem. And this thing amazes me too that there have been numerous cases where the supposedly repaired laptops came back with the same problem for which they were returned. Even newer machines are infested with this malady. I suppose the lid switch requires re-calibration of some sort or the the button assembly requires a re-design or the lid magnet needs to be supplanted by a different one. And all this may not be feasible right now when all the components' inventory is stocked and in place and the assembly line is churning out the product in large numbers. But one thing is undisputed that this problem should not occur in the new iterations of this model.
ASUS G53SW ROG Laptop
Intel Core i7 2630QM @ Stock Clock
Nvidia Geforce GTX 460M 1.5GB GDDR5 @ Stock Clocks (for now)
14GB DDR3 1333 MHz (G-Skill + Hynix)
SAMSUNG 830 128GB SATA3 SSD + Seagate Momentus 500GB 7200rpm SATA3 HDD
HP x23LED FHD 1080p monitor
Microsoft Lifecam Cinema HD 720p, Logitech M315 2.4G Wireless Mouse
JVC HA-RX700 Headphones, ASUS ROG G1 Backpack with ASUS Eee Sticks 😛

Sadozai wrote:
You have now idea how desperate I am to get to this lid switch and smother it, stifle it, strangle it with my bare hands. I wanna tighten the noose around its neck so that it never ever again raises it ugly head. You can feel my pain here...:D.


NOTE TO SELF: Keep an eye on Sadozai. Don't turn your back on him... ;>{)>
G74SX-A1 - stock hardware - BIOS 202 - 2nd Monitor VISIO VF551XVT

Sadozai wrote:
Yeah tape ground system doesn't sound much reliable. Where specifically did you replace your tape ground in your G74 and how? I'm curious because for one its interesting and I wanna know, for the other I have seen yellow tapes in my G53 I still wonder if they are for grounding, so if need arises I may replace them with metal grounding. There is a yellow tape over the TP ribbon connector in the G53, I wonder if it has got anything to do with grounding. I suspect this though because I dont see any grounding motive at that spot because the tape just sticks over the ribbon which is thoroughly insulated. But still its interesting and I have to find it. I'm smelling another hypothesis...:D


I think the yellow tape is just used to cover components and secure closed ribbon connectors. (There's a strip of that stuff over every connector.) In the G74, the yellow tape that covers the TP cable connector also crosses over the button assembly cable, but I think that's just incidental. As you can see in these photos of the touchpad exactly as Asus assembled it.....the yellow tape doesn't seem to serve much purpose except protecting the cable connector.
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You can also see the OEM "ground" in those photos....it looks like a piece of electrical tape between the TP's grounding pad and the nearby metal backing. It's a thick tape with a piece of 1x1" foil embedded on the other side, and a very thick, sticky adhesive. You can see in the second photo how loosely it's attached. Those photos were taken before I'd altered the tape in any way, and there was no continuity to the metal.

In the photo below, I've partially peeled it back to illustrate how the foil area barely reaches the metal. You can see, then, how vulnerable this "grounding system" is...it's a bad design to begin with, but with sloppy assembly, the chance of failure is very high. I can't seem to find any photos of my mod, but basically, I removed the tape ground and made a little metal arm that reaches from the metal keyboard backing to the grounding pad. So far, it's worked flawlessly. [EDIT: Photo of mod found & added below as photo 4]
4097 4099
You have no idea how desperate I am to get to this lid switch and smother it, stifle it, strangle it with my bare hands. I wanna tighten the noose around its neck so that it never ever again raises it ugly head. You can feel my pain here...:D.
Hey, I DO feel your pain! These kinds of issues that impact the everyday usability of your computer are absolutely infuriating. Especially when you start to realize that it's probably caused by a dumb design choice that could have easily been avoided. :mad:


The only apprehension I have right now is that if I am unable to fix this problem for good I'll have to live with this problem and its temporary solution, THE MAGNET. Although I am confident about rectifying this problem permanently yet there are certain uncertainties, which I think I have to deal with.
Well, I wish you a good outcome with this. Although it goes without saying that you should not have to pay a penny to fix it, I strongly suspect that replacing the button assembly would resolve the problem. Fortunately, if you ever decide to go that route, I think that's an inexpensive component.

dstrakele wrote:
NOTE TO SELF: Keep an eye on Sadozai. Don't turn your back on him... ;>{)>


LOL! ....be afraid....be very afraid.

@BrodyBoy Nice work. Thanks alot for the photos and a well illustrated guide. In particular the photos are well focused, zoomed in, sharp and nicely illuminated. Its always a pleasure to look at such high clarity snaps. I really like your grounding modification.


BrodyBoy wrote:
Hey, I DO feel your pain! These kinds of issues that impact the everyday usability of your computer are absolutely infuriating. Especially when you start to realize that it's probably caused by a dumb design choice that could have easily been avoided. :mad:


Thanks for your compassionate remarks it really is heart consoling.

BrodyBoy wrote:
Well, I wish you a good outcome with this. Although it goes without saying that you should not have to pay a penny to fix it, I strongly suspect that replacing the button assembly would resolve the problem. Fortunately, if you ever decide to go that route, I think that's an inexpensive component.


Thanks again for wishing me goodluck. Its quite relieving to know that the piece of hardware I may have to replace is not an expansive contraption but its still an inconveniance nonetheless so I guess thats a compromise I'll have to make and live with the consequences if any.


dstrakele wrote:
NOTE TO SELF: Keep an eye on Sadozai. Don't turn your back on him... ;>{)>


BrodyBoy wrote:
LOL! ....be afraid....be very afraid.



You guys are really scaring me. Frankly, I'm frightened by my own spooky jocular comment. Lolzzz
ASUS G53SW ROG Laptop
Intel Core i7 2630QM @ Stock Clock
Nvidia Geforce GTX 460M 1.5GB GDDR5 @ Stock Clocks (for now)
14GB DDR3 1333 MHz (G-Skill + Hynix)
SAMSUNG 830 128GB SATA3 SSD + Seagate Momentus 500GB 7200rpm SATA3 HDD
HP x23LED FHD 1080p monitor
Microsoft Lifecam Cinema HD 720p, Logitech M315 2.4G Wireless Mouse
JVC HA-RX700 Headphones, ASUS ROG G1 Backpack with ASUS Eee Sticks 😛

I'm thinking a small amount of magnetic shielding foil may help, just cover the area in question on the board and secure. Can be acquired by taking apart a coax or plenty of other means. Will try and report back... sorry to bump an old thread.

wes wrote:
I'm thinking a small amount of magnetic shielding foil may help, just cover the area in question on the board and secure. Can be acquired by taking apart a coax or plenty of other means. Will try and report back... sorry to bump an old thread.


Well I just bumped into my own thread after a long time and saw your post. Well its perfectly ok to bump in old threads to add or share something. By all means do the experiment and share your thought or any results that may be helpful to others.

As far me, I am still busy...Don't see myself freeing up time for experiments on my G53SW till March I guess but anyway I would still add a little bit here. Since I discovered that the problem could be solved using a magnet, I went for it but I used a very mild intensity magnet so the problem kept reappearing and so I was doing the same thing again and again. So naturally I got fed up and wanted to end this mess.

Since I didn't have the luxury to open up the laptop and fiddle with it with my experimentation I tried some safe method first to avoid the troubles in fixing this pestilence. This time I used a stronger magnet, like the coup de grâce and be done with it. And the result was, I couldn't be happier, the problem seems to be fixed. Haven't had any issues since then, the lid close and open actions register instantaneously and never had to press the power button twice to power it up.

So I am happy now with the solution and the result. Well that was my two cents. Good Luck guys
ASUS G53SW ROG Laptop
Intel Core i7 2630QM @ Stock Clock
Nvidia Geforce GTX 460M 1.5GB GDDR5 @ Stock Clocks (for now)
14GB DDR3 1333 MHz (G-Skill + Hynix)
SAMSUNG 830 128GB SATA3 SSD + Seagate Momentus 500GB 7200rpm SATA3 HDD
HP x23LED FHD 1080p monitor
Microsoft Lifecam Cinema HD 720p, Logitech M315 2.4G Wireless Mouse
JVC HA-RX700 Headphones, ASUS ROG G1 Backpack with ASUS Eee Sticks 😛

BrodyBoy wrote:
In the G74, the underside of the plastic palm-rest has a conductive coating. In this photo of a stripped down G74 TP, you see the metal backing of the keyboard at the top...it's the only metal component. Yet the area around the TP, which is all plastic, does provide continuity to the laptop's grounding system.


Inspecting the two photos you have posted I have noticed, as you mentioned, that the metal backing under the keyboard is clearly encroaching into the palm-rest area but its just at the top side of the touch pad while the entire underside of the palm-rest is conductive. The thing that I've noticed is that in both of the snaps there is a certain metallic reflection/lustre/tinge/tint visible at the surface of black underside plastic under the effect of camera flash. This might explain the conductive coating you were talking about in the G74. This thing isn't there in the G53 so this sort of grounding scenario might be absent in the G53. The surfaces under the palm-rests of G74 and G53 are clearly disparate.
ASUS G53SW ROG Laptop
Intel Core i7 2630QM @ Stock Clock
Nvidia Geforce GTX 460M 1.5GB GDDR5 @ Stock Clocks (for now)
14GB DDR3 1333 MHz (G-Skill + Hynix)
SAMSUNG 830 128GB SATA3 SSD + Seagate Momentus 500GB 7200rpm SATA3 HDD
HP x23LED FHD 1080p monitor
Microsoft Lifecam Cinema HD 720p, Logitech M315 2.4G Wireless Mouse
JVC HA-RX700 Headphones, ASUS ROG G1 Backpack with ASUS Eee Sticks 😛

BrodyBoy wrote:
(In my N73, by the way, the magnet is at the bottom of the screen! Completely different implementation.)


By the way I like this implementation more than the one used in G53. I think its a better implementation. Its the same implementation used in the HP Pavilion dv6. What I have noticed is that in this implementation the magnet used is not as strong as the one used in the other implementation in which the magnet is at the top of the lid beside the camera like in the case of G74 or G53 or Inspiron 14 N4010. Can you find out the difference in the strength of magnets in both of your laptops, G74 and N73?
ASUS G53SW ROG Laptop
Intel Core i7 2630QM @ Stock Clock
Nvidia Geforce GTX 460M 1.5GB GDDR5 @ Stock Clocks (for now)
14GB DDR3 1333 MHz (G-Skill + Hynix)
SAMSUNG 830 128GB SATA3 SSD + Seagate Momentus 500GB 7200rpm SATA3 HDD
HP x23LED FHD 1080p monitor
Microsoft Lifecam Cinema HD 720p, Logitech M315 2.4G Wireless Mouse
JVC HA-RX700 Headphones, ASUS ROG G1 Backpack with ASUS Eee Sticks 😛

JRd1st
Level 12
I think I have a weaker magnet than you're describing. My compass needle didn't look like it wanted to fly off the axis.
Read the User's Manual for more info. 😄



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