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1.35v ram upgrade, which one is better and faster?

us18x
Level 7
16GB G.Skill Ripjaws DDR3 2133MHz SO-DIMM Low-voltage 1.35V laptop memory kit (2x 8GB) CL11 ($197.99)

16GB G.Skill Ripjaws DDR3 Laptop upgrade kit
Low-voltage DDR3 memory, 1.35V
Consists of 2x 8GB single modules, 204 pins
2133MHz PC3-17000 SO-DIMM
Timings of CL11 (11-11-11-31) at 1.35V

or

Corsair Vengeance Performance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3L 2133MHz CL11 ($186.68)

Density: 16GB (2x8GB Module)
Speed: 2133MHz
Timing: 11-11-11-27
Type: DDR3L
Format: SODIMM
Pin Out: 204 Pin
Voltage: 1.35V

I am planning to put 4*8GB and take the full advantage of the G750JS capability.
Are there any other models out there beside of those???

Thanks
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16 REPLIES 16

us18x
Level 7
hmscott wrote:
Try maxing out GPU slider to 932 - everybody has been stable at max GPU, and you could keep bumping up memory by 100, but I maxed out at 5500.

You also need to install Intel XTU and St multipliers sliders to max, and cpu cache multi slider to max 🙂

And, reboot between changes and do a few 3dmark runs - it's windows so other things are running so there might be large variations in results from time to time, drop low runs from average.

Don't forget to tweak Nvidia control panel 3d settings for performance B-)


I installed the intel XTU, what are the values of the XTU? I tweaked the Nvidia control panel and god I missed the 3d stereoscopic option! also how much voltage I should setup the GPU Tweak?

us18x wrote:
I installed the intel XTU, what are the values of the XTU? I tweaked the Nvidia control panel and god I missed the 3d stereoscopic option! also how much voltage I should setup the GPU Tweak?


Intel XTU, change multi's on cores from defaults to 36x/35x/34x/34x and Cache Multi to 36x. You can then reduce the voltage on the CPU gradually - another tuning effort - and as you reduce the CPU Dynamic Offset Voltage you reduce the heat generated by the CPU - start at -25mV on CPU and Cache, and then drop -25mV at a time until you BSOD, then half the -25mV increment and try again.

My JW ran stable at -125mV, JX at -70mV, JH at -25mV initially and not after gradually reducing the increment month after month since 11/13 it is at -60mV 🙂

You might have missed the key items in the 3D controls to change, here are some highlighted sniipets:

40284

40285

And, don't forget to set the overall preference to Advanced, so the above options are used.

40286

3d stereoscopic option is, as they say, Optional 🙂

GPU / Asus Tweak Tool Voltage setting doesn't do anything... slider works, number changes, actual voltage stays the same.

Now you should be closer to the JS numbers, with at least one higher, and if you do the math, the % difference is small, and expressed as FPS in a game, likely 0-5 fps - so not much.

us18x
Level 7
I am getting the BSOD a lot by tweaking the CPU and Cache voltage... both -75 right now hoping it works this time!

us18x wrote:
I am getting the BSOD a lot by tweaking the CPU and Cache voltage... both -75 right now hoping it works this time!


us18x, it takes time, and although it feels good to drop down the voltage a bunch, stability is what you are looking to get, so drop the voltage down in increments large enough to make a difference, but not so large as to wonder if you should edit that file you need to edit for work and can you save it before the next BSOD 😉

The last voltage increase tweak will usually be due to an idle time crash - after running for a while seemingly stable - so expect it... or bring the voltage back up a little if you need stability to get things done.

us18x
Level 7
I haven't been lucky with the voltage so far but the laptop graphics been stable though... I have the cpu cache and voltage on default for the moment.

us18x wrote:
I haven't been lucky with the voltage so far but the laptop graphics been stable though... I have the cpu cache and voltage on default for the moment.


us18x, you could start in the low range for the CPU/Cache voltage, maybe -10mV and just let it run there for a while. My JH would only do -20mV from the start. Each CPU is unique, so it could be yours just won't do under-volting at all... in a way that isn't good because that means it's spec is a bit tight - hopefully it doesn't mean anything long term, but if it can't even handle a -10mV under-volt, you might want to swap it for another one... if you are still in the return period.

us18x
Level 7
Nah i am already passed it bro, I bought this machine last year end of July... it's cool though and I will try to lower the voltage gradually but once am done backing up this damn SSD!