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Use a filter with Mayhems Aurora Silver?

GEEKCPA
Level 8
I'm at the stage in my build where I'll be cutting and bending tubing. I plan to use Mayhems Aurora Silver, and noted on the bottle they recommend using a filter. Is this really required? If I should insert a filter in the loop what model should I use and where can I get it? I've seen a few online, but would like opinions on which is the best.
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10 REPLIES 10

Homewrecker
Level 9
This would probably be better asked in a water cooling forum as this section deals with Motherboards.

Homewrecker wrote:
This would probably be better asked in a water cooling forum as this section deals with Motherboards.


I asked the question here because I think most users of this MB are expert about computers, and about water cooling specifically. Other than my AIO cooler on my R5E, I haven't used water cooling since 2003. BTW, bending hard tubing is harder than it looks. Already scrapped two 500 mm tubes--but I'll get it figured out.

JustinThyme
Level 13
GEEKCPA wrote:
I'm at the stage in my build where I'll be cutting and bending tubing. I plan to use Mayhems Aurora Silver, and noted on the bottle they recommend using a filter. Is this really required? If I should insert a filter in the loop what model should I use and where can I get it? I've seen a few online, but would like opinions on which is the best.


I dont get using a filter when this is based on pearls in suspension. The filter will surely clog. I can see using one temporarily to remove the pearls but honestly Id just drain, flush and refill.



“Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity, I'm not sure about the former” ~ Albert Einstein

Homewrecker
Level 9
TBH, I didn't find the switch over to hard tube all that difficult. I practiced on a piece before 'going live'. Using dedicated bending and measuring equipment makes the job alot easier.

Homewrecker wrote:
TBH, I didn't find the switch over to hard tube all that difficult. I practiced on a piece before 'going live'. Using dedicated bending and measuring equipment makes the job alot easier.


The measurement seems to be my biggest problem, and getting the bend in the right spot. What is this equipment you mentioned, and where did you get it?

I'm just using a small ruler or tape (whichever fits in the respective area). I've tried the cutting wheel tool that came with the Thermaltake cutting/bending kit, but it sometimes cracks the tubing. I can't get a square cut with my Dremel, so the best so far has been a fine-tooth hack saw in a cheap miter box.

GEEKCPA wrote:
The measurement seems to be my biggest problem, and getting the bend in the right spot. What is this equipment you mentioned, and where did you get it?

I'm just using a small ruler or tape (whichever fits in the respective area). I've tried the cutting wheel tool that came with the Thermaltake cutting/bending kit, but it sometimes cracks the tubing. I can't get a square cut with my Dremel, so the best so far has been a fine-tooth hack saw in a cheap miter box.


I used Thermaltake's bending kit in my build. The only tools I used in it was the tube cutter and the reamer. I tried the mandrels and I found them too hard to use and error prone. Even if you have perfect measurements I could never get the heated tubes on the mandrels perfectly. This is probably because I did not use jigs and I heated the tubes away from the mandrels. I had great success with just eyeballing bends by hand.

Here is my bending trick:
1) rough cut a section of tube (estimate how long the section needs to be and add .5-1 inch more on each end)
2) heat the tubes and hand bend them, You can use something that has a square corner like a book (dictionary works well) to make sure the bend is 90 degrees
3) trim small sections off the ends of the section until they fit perfectly

I'm perplexed how you were able to crack tubing using the Thermaltake cutter. I'm guessing you applied far too much pressure before beginning to turn the cutter. I just turn the dial until it touches the tubing then turn 1/2 turn. Then rotate the cutter 2 times then another 1/2 turn. Repeat until the tube is cut through.

Skunkfoo wrote:
I used Thermaltake's bending kit in my build. The only tools I used in it was the tube cutter and the reamer. I tried the mandrels and I found them too hard to use and error prone. Even if you have perfect measurements I could never get the heated tubes on the mandrels perfectly. This is probably because I did not use jigs and I heated the tubes away from the mandrels. I had great success with just eyeballing bends by hand.

Here is my bending trick:
1) rough cut a section of tube (estimate how long the section needs to be and add .5-1 inch more on each end)
2) heat the tubes and hand bend them, You can use something that has a square corner like a book (dictionary works well) to make sure the bend is 90 degrees
3) trim small sections off the ends of the section until they fit perfectly

I'm perplexed how you were able to crack tubing using the Thermaltake cutter. I'm guessing you applied far too much pressure before beginning to turn the cutter. I just turn the dial until it touches the tubing then turn 1/2 turn. Then rotate the cutter 2 times then another 1/2 turn. Repeat until the tube is cut through.


It would appear I applied too much pressure when the tubing cracked, but I only turned the knob 1/8 or 1/16 turn or less and rotated completely around the tube two or more times before tightening again. I mounted the mandrels to a piece of wood and actually directed the heat gun flow on the mandrel prior to placing the tube against the mandrel. Even doing that there is still some give and take in that process, and it does appear free hand bending works just as well or better. I'm still a rookie at the bending business so I just ordered more tubing to practice on.

JustinThyme
Level 13
What tubing you use matters as well. The high grade stuff is not so brittle. I use a PVC cutter from Home depot electrical dept. Cuts it clean unless its the cheap brittle stuff that cracks when you sneeze on it.
Free hand bending is not uniform and for rookies that cant figure out the geometry of triangles to make the bends. 99% of the time the mistake is made of making too tight of a bend. Plan out the system carefully. If you are doing this for aesthetics then stop and by a ready made solution as in Kraken AIO. If you are serious about performance the key is less is more. No stupid twirly runs with a light in the middle. You want the shortest runs possible with the least amount of bends including fittings. Bends add restriction and reduce flow rate.

When you can make a measurement from the point of origin to the backside of the bend and figure out where to mark the tube and place it in the shoe you can leave wee hopper.
Or even more complex is an offset with 15 or 30 degree bends.
Electricians who have learned to run conduit properly or hydraulic techs or brake line specialists will find this as second nature already.



“Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity, I'm not sure about the former” ~ Albert Einstein

Brighttail
Level 11
Are you building a show piece? I thought the Aurora line is NOT for 24/7 use...at least not recommended. The filter I thought was based on the type of pump / reservoir you have. Mainly with Aurora, you want as few bends or area where the beads can collect.
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