1. Does SYY is basically equal quality and performance to TFX? 2. Does Iceberg Thermal FUZEIce Plus equals to CTG9.... basically renamed Maxtor CTG9? 3. YT Blogger said CTG9 as good or even beats Team Grizlly Krynout, so means, Iceberg is as good as Krynout/
I did pasting of Gelid GC extreme but I am planning in 6 months or so, repaste my ASUS G513QY again both CPU/GPU, and I wonder from SYY/Fuze which one will perform better?
I have currently got SYY in my A15 and my Nintendo Switch, so far so good. I can't truly comment on performance as my laptop has undergone a lot of modifications. I have read from many sources that Kryonaut is a sucker for pump out effect unless perfect mounting is achieved and if you hit 80c+ it deteriorates quickly. Basically if your machine can get that hot, use something else.
I did have issues with Kryonaut on my PS4 Pro possibly due to a lack of mounting pressure and or an imperfect mount. I flexed the clamp arms a little, reapplied and very carefully mounting the heatsinks again and *touched wood* it has been fine since.
Cool ! Question, Currently I use Gelid GC Extreme, CPU maxing 97c and GPU hotspot maxing 99c. With LM (Both stock LM and my own LM), GPU hotspot was going up to 103c. So interestingly, paste better than LM on GPU hotspot.
1. I bought SYY and it will arrive to me in 2-3 weeks, I want change from Gelid GC Extreme to SYY. Can I expect better CPU/GPU temps from SYY?
2. Can you suggest your GPU hotspot temps and CPU temps before/after SYY?
@MyRyzenWorld if temps with LM are that bad yet paste is working better I dare say the the cold plates have a bit of a gap between them and the chips. I had a similar problem with my FA506QR after changing pastes. my issue was that there's a 1-2mm pad on the heatsink from factory, so when removed and I used paste the results got worse. I ended up having to use shims and K5 Pro (on VRAM and VRMs) to make sure everything got adequate cooling. Airflow could also be an issue. I have my laptop on a custom cooler with 2 120mm high static pressure 12v fans blowing into the bottom chassis, I also opened up more ventilation on the underside of mine and plastic meshed the holes for safety. Those 2 things alone made a massive difference in terms of temps before I changed pastes.
1. I can't answer that because if the mating surfaces aren't close enough performance will be a bit meh. I haven't used the Gelid on my laptop to be able to compare either. That said, so far I have had decent results on my own machine.
2. As you can imagine from what you have already read my data won't help you out so much as mine has undergone many changes and forms. Something else to take into account, VRAM and VRMs, I don't know how good the thermal stuff was on them originally, if I use better stuff, more heat is displaced, but that can warm up over all temps because of the better heat dissipation from parts than may have not had a good thermal interface. Same will apply for you too. so just asking for HS temps doesn't really help. For example, I have iGPU on so my RTX is off completely, I'm on battery using the windows/balanced mode. my room is cool cause I like that and my A15 is currently at 25c with a max of 28.5c so far. Power is limited and the RTX isn't on. if I turn that back on temps might sit around 30ish. Plugged in I know it will not go below 31c because of more power use, especially with the RTX chip not in standby. if I turbo it it will sit between 31-41c, yet if I make it do anything and the clocks and wattage jump it can shoot to 60+ in seconds. I attribute that to the VRMs ramping up as well as the CPU itself. Under gaming loads with decent settings I used to see 90c on the CPU and 80c on the GPU, after all my efforts so far it is rare the CPU goes about 80 and the gpu around the 60 mark. That's full tilt no frame cap though. Your laptop is a R9000HS isn't it? so I imagine the faster speeds also mean higher wattage so likely more or hotter VRMs, better thermals on those add to the heat in the cooling system. I disable boost on mine if it isn't needed so 8 cores at 3.2mhz and it does fine, it also limits the heat. I use AATU to watt limit the chip too. As I have found opening simple apps or web pages the system goes full throttle for nothing, poorly optimised there I must say. 45w to open a web page... really?
3. Not being a serial bencher or running 2 systems long term with all 3 of those TIMS I can't fully comment. TG kyro is a fickle paste and if you hit 80c and above it deteriorates, suffers bad pump out... blah... SSY is a cheap paste with high claims and it appears to be good in several benches on YT too. So far I have had no issues with my set up and I have shims and paste, so each chip is using 2 sets of paste. having only used SSY on this laptop and my Nintendo Switch, I can't compare it to the Kryonaut I used in my Playstation Pro.
4. SSY is very thick, it is definitely a paste you spread rather than blob and hope the heatsink moves it, being a little thicker I hope it resists pump out. Many complain about it being thick and hard to spread, it is time consuming but it isn't anywhere near as bad as people claim. From reviews I expected it to be like cold butter (actual butter not the fake stuff lol) but it has a consistency closer to warm peanut butter. I like that about it because you know it will stay where you put it rather than run everywhere.
Little end piece of info. Get a good cooler, better yet make your own if you have the time. I used a Aluminium adjustable tray, 2 Arctic 120mm 12v fans, a USB 5v to 15V adapter (I did the math and a 3.1 USB has the amps). link the fans since they have the connectors for that already, cut the spare connector, cut the end of the 15v adapter and solder in the positive and negative accordingly and thats sorted. Mark out where you want the fans, drill mount holes, cut out the main part of the tray that would cover the fans, mount fans the right way, dust guard the back of them and away you go. Plug it in your laptop or a fast charger and the fans run at 15v blasting cool air at your laptop. If the bottom of the Chassis is restricted or the openings to the fans... or in my case both... look where you need more airflow and widen vents or dremel out some more. Get a plastic mesh usually for fans and super glue them over the vents to stop critters and dust. More air getting in is more cooling really, also means cooler air getting to the fans so better dissipation from the heatsinks.
Limit what the CPU does if you don't need the power, for browsing I use AATU and limit TDP, long and short boost values to 13w. that makes a massive difference in temps. Same if you don't need Turbo, don't use it. you can limit TDP in turbo as well or turn off boost. Same with gaming, 149fps is nice but if you limit it to 60fps it will drop both CPU and GPU temps because it doesn't have to work as hard. Also if you're using benchmarking thats an artificial load of 100%, you won't get that in a real world most of the time.
Washers + Repaste (For gpu larger die I used SYY Iceberg fuzeice Plus for CPU): Before repasting and washers CPU was going 95-97c even with GT500 Max speed.
Now CPU peaking around 91-91.5c with GT500 and going to its usual 95-96c max without GT500. Which is normal, multiple G513QY units reported on discord having same temps at load, but the IMPORTANT change, that before repasting, with EVEN with GT500 cpu was still kicking 95-97c lol and now its not (timespy/firestrike). In things that push the CPU to the max like CB23, still seeing 95C (as I understand other units with LM does see 95c as well) but now my scores higher, so surely less throttle after repasting+washers mod 🙂
When I opened the cooling chamber, Gelid GC Extreme was kinda vaporized, wattery drops on die....so probably not a great fit OR i had a bad Gelid defected......or something... took photos:
*** white thing is K5 pro , pretty nice how it kept its form and shape, as "thermal pads". You should NOT use K5 pro if you need more than 1mm though.
Especially on chamber side, you can see it, I touched the Gelid, it really felt like vaporized water.....
Now with SYY and Iceberg Plus, I feel more confident 🙂 In future when time comes to repaste again, I can determine which one of the two saved better its form and shape, and use the better one to repaste both dies.
For VRM and VRAM, since this laptop has around 0.5-1.0mm K5 pro is a good fit for me, and since I already had K5 pro on vram and vrm, all I did is recollect K5 Pro and re-apply again + use some extra K5 pro to fill up a bit, as when you recollect you still lose some. P.S. K5 PRO lab officially told me, that K5 pro can be recollected and re-applied.
As mentioned in CPU intense like BF2042 I am hitting peaks at 95c but its not sticking there it goes below it for CPU and CB23 sticks to 95c, but thats normal for R9 5900HX laptops in this model. The big issue that before this repaste work, even if I dropped CPU STP to 60's watt zone, even then it would go and stick to 95c in load, and with GT500 max speed, it won't bother go below 95c lol now it does in gaming/3dmark go below 95c.
Currently on my phone, unfortunately I can't see all the numbers in those images. Could you be so kind as to do before and after temps in a comment?
Either way, benching is a good baseline but I always tend to run the programs I use the most in highest settings to see how things have gone. No workload will ever match CB23 or 3Dmark, so although those temps are pretty high, chances of you seeing them during work is limited. Oh, RoG laptops also have the Custom mode, you can set the fan curves way more aggressive. Kinda wish they didn't gimp the A15 because I would love that feature.
I noticed that there are dust marks on the lower half of the MoBo, are there no vents over the fans? Some of the issue could be the way it passive cools if there are no vents over the fans. It forces the fans to scavenge air from the chassis, under load the whole area gets warm so you're cooling the heatsinks with warmer air anyway. Making vents over the fans and sitting it on a cooler, even a standard off the shelf one could make a few degrees difference. The fans get fresh cold air to the heatsinks and the cooler tray replaces that passive draw.
You mentioned washers, those to me are steel rings you put on the shafts of screws and bolts? You want a copper shim for maximum heat transfer. Otherwise, what is a washer mod?