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Water cooling Guide

Level 9
Water Cooling Guide
By Juggalo23451
Video explanation link as well as where to get wc parts below the tutorial

Well I have been water cooling for a lil over 2 yrs now so I would figure I would help and make a guide. So let's get started

What is water cooling. More or less it is the same way how your car's radiator works to cool your engine except on a smaller scale .

Do not mix metals
You can have
copper, nickel, brass, stainless steel in the same loop
If you have any metal like this do not use something that is aluminum. Doing so will cause Galvanic corrosion which is very bad

How much is it going to cost me- Depends on what you want to cool. The average cost for a cpu only loop is generally around 200-$$$. It will cost more if you want to add graphics cards, mosfets and etc. there is no real reason to water cool your ram,hdd. I don't see the point of water cooling your north bridge/south bridge either all it does is add restriction to your loop.If you want better temps on your chipset remove the old thermal paste with 90% Isopropyl alcohol or higher. Use a q-tip for this or a micro fiber cloth. Then put on new thermal paste like the ones listed below. but if you are going for insane overclocks go for it:)

What parts are needed? I will tell you the parts and suggest some parts as well.

Tubing and lingo you may see(get 10ft for cpu only,15ft or more if adding more rads blocks and etc:)

The most common sizes for tubing for water cooling are
3/8 inch
7/16 inch-people use this size tubing on 1/2 barbs for a tighter fit/seal
1/2 inch
ID= Inner diameter
OD= Outer diameter
Primochill,tygon, masterkleer (budget)
Use tube cutters, razor or scissors to cut the tubing.

Do not use any dyes or additives. If you want color get colored tubing

Reservoir ( always higher then the pump)- holds water

For reses it is all about preference really, You have the Swiftech Micro revision res for like 20 bucks or you could spend up to 200 bucks on a res to.

Pump(always below the res)

check instructions to make sure you know where the inlet is and outlet- This is the whole heart of you water cooling loop. Pushes the water in you loop around. Getting the right pump is critical don't get the right pump may get poor flow in your loop/poor temps to. They are usually measured by gph(gallons per hour) The more gph the better.
MCP355,MCP655, OCZ hydro flow(budget),jingway,
Note: The mcp355(has 3/8 barbs) is slightly better than the mcp655(1/2 barbs)

Pump top

Dont want to use 3/8 barbs on a mcp355 get a top:) and choose what ever barb or compression fitting you like. Getting a op will help maximize the efficiency of the pump.

Water Blocks(center is always the inlet)

There are great water blocks out there for the CPU and Gpus. If you are going for the absolute best one out there. Then the Koolance 380 is the king right now.
XSPC Raystorm water block(budget) . XSPC for gpus as well. HK,aquagrafx,EK, These blocks will probably(+or- a degree) perform about the same(matter of looks really)

Thermal Paste-

MX3, MX4, OCZ Freeze, Shin Etsu, Indigo Extreme(the best but really expensive)


you will see g1/4 and g3/8. That is simply the thread size. What size barbs you get will depict on what size tubing you would want.
bitspower, enzotech,koolance

Compression fittings- Makes your loop look cleaner.

Has two parts the barb and a collar. The collar goes on the tubing first. Then mount the tubing on the barb. Screw down collar all the way.(video below) make sure to get the same id and od fittings as your tubing

Radiators(removes heat from you loop)-

inlet/outlet does not mater
Depending on what you want to cool will depend on the size of rad you want
Example a 240 radiators can cool most cpus., 360 rad for cpu and a gpu
Best rad right now is the GTX series radiators by Hw labs(loud setup)
Best rad(low noise) RX series rads by XSPC or SR-1 rad by HW labs
Budget rad Xspc EX performs like the rx but cheaper and thinner

P.s You can use a 77 Bonneville rad I believe if you wanted to.

Fans(removes heat from the rad) and static pressure

What is static pressure. It is the measurement of air to be push through a restrictive object. So the better the static pressure the better the fan for your radiator.

Panaflo,delata, Kazes 120x120x38 are great for rads like the GTX
Gentle typhoons (AP-15) are great for rad like the Sr-1 and RX series rads. Why you ask the noise to cfm is great and it has good static pressure as well.
Yate Loons are a great budget fan The xspc 1650rpm fan will perform better than yates and they are cheap

Fan Controller
(controls the rpms of a fan)

Want to quiet down your set up getting a fan controller can help with that:)

Clamps (secure them in the center of the barb)-

use clamps, zips, or worm clamps to secure your tubing

Coolant- Distilled water is all you need.
Pt nuke as well to prevent growth in your loop

/ or just get a
silver coil.

I have all the parts now what?

1. Loop order, I usually do res-pump-rad-cpu-res for example, but you do not have to do that order just make sure you have the res before the pump

2. Bust out a scratch piece of paper and pen. Draw a rectangle representing you case then. Draw another rectangle representing your mb. Location is key for a water cooling loop.
Draw some sketches on how you want your loop to go.

3. Mount everything up.

4. Start from one point in your wc loop.with the tubing attached to a barb,
take the excess and move it to the next point to your loop then cut.(Attach tubing)Repeat the process until you are done.

5. Take out loop of you case(up to you)

6. Hook the pump to your power supply(make sure nothing else is
hooked up to the psu)

7. Take a paper clip and put it in the green wire and connect any black wire. this will create a load to turn on your psu. Make sure the psu unplugged before doing this.

8. Fill up the res with distilled water all the way to the top with a funnel

9. Turn on the psu let the water go to about have way then refill the res.

10. repeat the process again until you do not need to fill the res up any more

Bubbles- To get rid of bubbles tilt your case side to side, back and forward
Leak testing- I say a good 8-12hrs should be enough. You can do more if you would like.

Hook up everything/install wc loop if outside of case and enjoy your temps.

It is recommended that you do this 6 months - 1 year.(some people do it longer)
I would personally replace the tubing at this time.
Check your blocks, they might have some oxidation on them.
To remedy this issue if it is a cpu block or other blocks, I just soak it in some lemon juice for a couple of hours. I use a old toothbrush to clean the items.
For the rad I use 1 part white vinegar and 4 parts water and let it soak for a couple of hours.

If you are cleaning you rad for the first time before being put in a loop use isopropyl alcohol and let it soak for a couple of hours.

If you do anything above make sure you rinse out your items several times with distilled water.

Water cooling basics

How to set up and install a water cooling loop 4 parts

Compression fitting

Water Cooling Cases

Here is some info that you guys/gals may find help full on your water cooling adventure. Credit goes to skinnieelabs,Martin120, and bundymania,stren
rad comparison
The Higher the Better the rad is.

Pump comparison
The higher the better

Mcp355 top comparison

If any additional help is need please feel free to pm me or ask a question here:)

Level 9

Level 16
I think, this is a nice guide for start - thank you, Juggalo! 🙂

Couple of comments/additions if I may have...

From my experience, when doing high OC'ing, having the VRMs on the RIVE and North Bridge + VRMs on the CHVF-Z under water is very beneficial... it's true, the VRM and NB blocks are pretty restrictive, but a good pump (I'm using Laing D5s) can handle it...

Regarding the flow in the loop, I found that most of the time a slow flow is way better than a fast one... not sure why exactly is that - maybe, there is more time for the coolant in the rad(s) for heat exchange?

About what fan to use on a certain radiator - it's all about the rad's fin density... high fin density (above 10-15 fins/inch) will greatly increase the surface for heat exchange, but will represent a stronger obstacle for the airflow... that's why you will need high static pressure fans on the high fin density rads... - practically, I would not recommend those setups to those who want a quiet system... high static pressure fans will be able to push the air trough dense fins, but that will produce a lot of noise...

For low fin density rads, some of the the Cougar and Noctua fans are a great choice too...

Level 40
Nice guide! 😄 good info in there!

Posted this yesterday for someone ....a good corrosion paper....

Level 15
Thanks for the guide!!! but there is one thing that really aggravates me to no end: and that's the fact that all these damn companies don't bother doing much in the way of cooling blocks for AMD setups, a couple of them have CPU blocks and VRM blocks and that's it! the site I purchase through, seems to no longer carry EKWB gear at all and only one freakin AMD CPU block - don't like it, won't buy now, i'm restricted to using an CLC from the companies that bothered to even make something compatible with AMD CPU's...unacceptable I say!! if I had the money, the tools and the know-how, i'd machine them myself....i'm sick and tired of AMD always getting passed over!!