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Never ever do this.

Melting_Point
Level 10
I was searching some of the threads here last night to see if anyone had solved the issue of RIVE motherboards not booting after being powered down. (I did end up finding that removing the CMOS battery for 30 mins seems to have solved the issue for now.) I noticed some very dangerous advice being given in one of the thread, and just thought I'd point it out and why it was dangerous.

The advice was to place the MB in the box it came in, and power it up. The boxes these MBs are supplied in are conductive, which is why they protect the board from ESD damage. I'm sure I don't need to explain why it's not a good idea to power up a MB while it's sitting on a conductive surface, any more than I need to explain why it's a bad idea to power a MB up while it's submerged in water.

Please, don't power your board up in the box it came in, and if you're guilty of advising others to do so in the past, stop giving out bad advice.

PS, the post I'm referring to came from a Super-Mod, I'd have thought they'd know better.
Motherboard: RIVE (3602 bios)
CPU: Intel 3930K @4646MHz
OS Drive: 2 X Samsung 840 PRO (Raid 0)
Storage Drive: 2 X 1.5TB WD Caviar Black RAID 0, 2 X 3TB WD Caviar Red, Kingston V100 256GB SSD
Memory: 64GB G.SKILL Ripjaws Z (F3-12800CL10Q2-64GBZL)
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX580 @795MHz - 1536MB GDDR5
PSU: OCZ ZX1250
Cooling: Phantek PH-TC14PE
OS: Windows 7 Ultimate x64. (EUFI)
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Retired
Not applicable
Arne got a setup a la comfortable there, shake a leg and chill

Only things missing in that couch is a trannie in superman suit and 2 bottles of Château Lafitte,..

Arne Saknussemm wrote:
Hehe...cheers Z 😮



Melting Point...I'm not saying you don't have a point but you really will have to explain this to me....if I fire up my board in a puddle it is dead...many fire up the board on cardboard etc. and nothing happens I don't get what you are saying...it goes against a lot of common experience at the very least...

Surely not talking theoretical pure water...

What can I place the board on for quick testing?...glass tabletop?...plastic or wood board?...my Y fronts?

This system has worked for years and still does by the way 😉

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No, I'm talking about tap water. Pure water isn't conductive at all, it's the impurities in the water that are conductive.

If you place the MB on a flat surface, not all of the pins on the bottom of the board will touch that surface. If you submerse the board in water, the water will touch virtually all the pins of all components on the board.

What's a god surface to use as a test bed? Ideally you'd want to use a rubber mat that has a conductive bottom layer and a non-conductive top layer, which is grounded. But a piece of glass or wood would be fine. Or a cardboard box that doesn't have a conductive surface.

The reason people are being told to remove the board from the case and power it up on the bench is to remove the possibility of the board shorting out on the case. It would seem obvious to me that using a non-conductive surface as a test bed is a no brainer.

I spent about 5 mins this morning measuring the resistance of my MB box at various points and found the resistance is not uniform. The lowest resistance I was able to find between 2 point that were about 3mm apart was about 3k.
Motherboard: RIVE (3602 bios)
CPU: Intel 3930K @4646MHz
OS Drive: 2 X Samsung 840 PRO (Raid 0)
Storage Drive: 2 X 1.5TB WD Caviar Black RAID 0, 2 X 3TB WD Caviar Red, Kingston V100 256GB SSD
Memory: 64GB G.SKILL Ripjaws Z (F3-12800CL10Q2-64GBZL)
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX580 @795MHz - 1536MB GDDR5
PSU: OCZ ZX1250
Cooling: Phantek PH-TC14PE
OS: Windows 7 Ultimate x64. (EUFI)

Retired
Not applicable
My room is grounded to the wall radiator as well..

I have only had to RMA one single board in my life, and it was broke om arrival

off topic> XFX s 550w.. best PSU ever made..

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Arne--->

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Pic 2

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Menthol
Level 14
What is that shiny lacquer coating on all boards, I believe it does have some insulting qualities. I have never damaged a board on a box myself, not saying it isn't going to happen

WhitePaw wrote:
Only things missing in that couch is a trannie in a superman suit and 2 bottles of Château Lafitte,..


Paw! that says more about your relaxation techniques than mine!...You've really given the thread title it's meaning now!! 😉

Menthol wrote:
Sorry I am accustomed to the on board sound of the RIVE only working until I do some overclocking.


Hahaha...some classic quotes today!

Retired
Not applicable
Arne, yeah.. we all know where that second bottle is going, and its not meant for relaxing..

TPOV, china in your ***

Retired
Not applicable
menthol> are you saying that R4E come with a onboard sound? :eek:

Retired
Not applicable
btw are 4590 and 4790 old models? 4810 many models.. a lineup

They are showing up over here now..

if so, new mobos around the corner i guess..

Goggle_Eye
Level 7
Been told by different M/Board companies tech support to always always do the build on the box and test. Not saying you are wrong I always put the anti static bag under the mother board and then on top of the box. Is that a wrong procedure to use? Any plain old piece of flat card board as long as it does not have any graphics on the card board should be safe? Could the die used to do the graphics or put color in the card board be conducting the current?
CaseLabs Magnum 8
Asus Rampage 4 Black Edition
I7 4930K 4.5GHz
Noctua NH D14
G-Skill Z Series 2133 MHz 16 Gb
2x GTX 780 S.C.
PSU Corsair AX 1500 I
2 x Samsung 850 Pro 2 Tbs Each
2 x Intel 730 Series 480 GBs Each
Sound On Board

Goggle Eye wrote:
Is that a wrong procedure to use?


Well there is the rub....I would say that's OK myself...