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Complete newbie requires help with 4770K temps

redlinezak
Level 7
Hi All

I have just built my first pc and need some help with a slight issue.
I have the Maximus VI formula MB with an i7 4770K processor, corsair 1866MHz RAM (16GB) and gigabyte nvidia 780 GHz edition GPU and an EVGA 1000G2 PS.

All has gone fine except that im am registering temps (monitored by core temp) of around 50C at idle with no windows open.
I have hardly installed anything on the pc except steam, firefox and a couple of other minot programs.

When I am playing assetto corsa the temps go up to between 75-90 degrees. The temp goes up pretty much instantly as soon as i start playing rather than a gradual rise.
The temp on my GPU is around 45 degrees when playing.

I am using the stock cooler and have 4 fans inside my fractal arc midi case.
I have not overclocked the processor or anything this is basically straight from a fresh install.

I then tried removing the cooler and replacing the standard heat paste with a different one (arctic cool i think) but made no difference.

Is it possible that this is a faulty processor?

My old system in the same case was a gigabyte MB with an AMD FX4100 black edition and 650Ti card and that used to idle at 6 degrees.

Any help will be massively appreciated.

Thanks

Any help wi
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23 REPLIES 23

Arne_Saknussemm
Level 40
Hmmm that does seem high for idle...should be about 30-35 depending on ambient temps...if it's idling at 1200MHz for example with speedstep.

Can you open CPUz and have a look to see if speedstep is working...that the processor is downclocking and reducing voltage at idle...and have a look what voltage it is using at load.

When you replaced the TIM (paste) did the material on there already look nice and evenly spread out in a thin, almost see through layer?

Have you cleared CMOS and made sure everything is at stock? Then maybe set XMP for the RAM and check what changes that makes in BIOS....

Lastly make sure when core temp is open nothing else that reads temp sensors etc is open too....running multiple programs can give you bad readings...

redlinezak
Level 7
Hi Thanks for the reply.

Please bear with me as im still learning.

This is a totally fresh install.
Only Core Temp is open.
I adjusted a setting in the Bios (cannot remeber what one) for the RAM as it was only being reported as 1333 so i changed it to 1866 and it now reports correctly.
Coretemp shows that the clock speed is 800MHz when idle.

I'm away on business this week so im unable to check much until thursday but i will check for speedstep when i get back.

I have not looked at the voltage at all so will report on that also.

Thanks again.

redlinezak wrote:
Please bear with me as im still learning.


No worries there...that's what it's all about...

OK yeah 800MHz is a more normal idle clock speed for those CPUs...have my head in 2011 CPUs talking 1200 😮

So sure sounds like the CPU is downclocking etc. so speedstep working...

Maybe the stock cooler really is worse than a tin of sardines?

Yeah, get back to us on voltages etc. and load frequency....you haven't tried using OC presets at any point?

In my opinion, after reading all the posts, the problem is here: "I am using the stock cooler and have 4 fans inside my fractal arc midi case." Assuming that you mean that piece of sh*t that comes with the boxed version of Intel's processors. If I had any explosives lying around, I'd stick some to those things.
With Intel's current manner of manufacturing their CPU's - no more welded IHS, instead they use TIM (non metallic) and the IHS is frequently too far from the DIE to make decent contact, leaving all the heat transferring to be done through a heap of TIM - that and the fact you are using a stock cooler, in my mind, screams high temps. I may be wrong, but I think I have a strong case here with the problem being the cooler.

My advice, before going nuts tweaking everything, would be to try out a new cooler, a decent one! Honestly, nothing changes temps as much as the cooling system does! As long as you install it correctly, of course.

You can keep checking the software, but in my experience it has always been the hardware that had something wrong with it. This experience varies from person to person. Like I said, me, I have had more bad luck with hardware than I have with software related issues, although some of the stuff the others have said is quite plausible, such as accidental OC's, remnant's of old OC's, etc. So setting CMOS back to defaults is always something you do before removing hardware.

I wouldn't be surprised if in the end it was that horrible Intel cooler. Why do they make us pay for those freaking things!?

Good luck!

Edit: Changing thermal paste from even the stock to the better non metallics out there, for example Gelid's extreme, will only make a relatively small difference, what I mean is, it won't be taking off 10, 20 or 30 degrees. Only better cooling can do that. So don't be swapping out thermal paste like crazy trying to get your temps down ^.^ Only time you will see a dramatic difference may be when you use a liquid metal paste.

Arne Saknussemm wrote:
No worries there...that's what it's all about...

OK yeah 800MHz is a more normal idle clock speed for those CPUs...have my head in 2011 CPUs talking 1200 😮

So sure sounds like the CPU is downclocking etc. so speedstep working...

Maybe the stock cooler really is worse than a tin of sardines?

Yeah, get back to us on voltages etc. and load frequency....you haven't tried using OC presets at any point?


Definately not tried any oc presets.Core temp was the first and only thing i installed as soon as windows had loade and i had updated all drivers etc and the temps were instantly around 45 ish (i hadnt even been into the bios at this point).

From reading around i think i need to redo my memory preset as all i did was change the freq to 1866 and not correctly set the timings and voltage etc (discovered this after reading another post on here)

ThermalX wrote:
In my opinion, after reading all the posts, the problem is here: "I am using the stock cooler and have 4 fans inside my fractal arc midi case." Assuming that you mean that piece of sh*t that comes with the boxed version of Intel's processors. If I had any explosives lying around, I'd stick some to those things.
With Intel's current manner of manufacturing their CPU's - no more welded IHS, instead they use TIM (non metallic) and the IHS is frequently too far from the DIE to make decent contact, leaving all the heat transferring to be done through a heap of TIM - that and the fact you are using a stock cooler, in my mind, screams high temps. I may be wrong, but I think I have a strong case here with the problem being the cooler.

My advice, before going nuts tweaking everything, would be to try out a new cooler, a decent one! Honestly, nothing changes temps as much as the cooling system does! As long as you install it correctly, of course.

You can keep checking the software, but in my experience it has always been the hardware that had something wrong with it. This experience varies from person to person. Like I said, me, I have had more bad luck with hardware than I have with software related issues, although some of the stuff the others have said is quite plausible, such as accidental OC's, remnant's of old OC's, etc. So setting CMOS back to defaults is always something you do before removing hardware.

I wouldn't be surprised if in the end it was that horrible Intel cooler. Why do they make us pay for those freaking things!?

Good luck!

Edit: Changing thermal paste from even the stock to the better non metallics out there, for example Gelid's extreme, will only make a relatively small difference, what I mean is, it won't be taking off 10, 20 or 30 degrees. Only better cooling can do that. So don't be swapping out thermal paste like crazy trying to get your temps down ^.^ Only time you will see a dramatic difference may be when you use a liquid metal paste.


The 4 fans inside the case ar to intake at the front and an exhaust at the rear plus 1 top mounted (not sure if this is intake or exhaust but will check when i get home) plus obviously the stock cooler fan.
One thing i did remember was that when i was building the new stuff and removing all the old components (i originally bought the PC pre built) i remeber there was a small extension on the rear fan which i removed. It may be possibly that this reveresed the voltange and hence the direction?? This could possibly mean that i dont have any exhaust so i will check that also when i get home.

As a temporary solution i was looking at the corsair H100i until i can afford to get a full aftermarket loop in there. Do you guys think that this will make a significant difference?

Thanks again for everyones help and i will update later with any findings.

redlinezak wrote:
Definately not tried any oc presets.Core temp was the first and only thing i installed as soon as windows had loade and i had updated all drivers etc and the temps were instantly around 45 ish (i hadnt even been into the bios at this point).

From reading around i think i need to redo my memory preset as all i did was change the freq to 1866 and not correctly set the timings and voltage etc (discovered this after reading another post on here)



The 4 fans inside the case ar to intake at the front and an exhaust at the rear plus 1 top mounted (not sure if this is intake or exhaust but will check when i get home) plus obviously the stock cooler fan.
One thing i did remember was that when i was building the new stuff and removing all the old components (i originally bought the PC pre built) i remeber there was a small extension on the rear fan which i removed. It may be possibly that this reveresed the voltange and hence the direction?? This could possibly mean that i dont have any exhaust so i will check that also when i get home.

As a temporary solution i was looking at the corsair H100i until i can afford to get a full aftermarket loop in there. Do you guys think that this will make a significant difference?

Thanks again for everyones help and i will update later with any findings.


If the only thing you did was remove a cable and it's still working than it was most likely the signal cable. Its usually marked as a yellow cable. Regardless of what it was, you did not reverse the fan's rotation, so don't worry about that.

I love open loops because of the customization, it's a passion for many of us here, but if you want a good cooler (anything next to that stock thing would be better) than the one that has been mentioned is a good option. Closed loops serve that purpose: quick, easy, relatively cheap & good cooling. So ya, definitely get one.

Edit: To reiterate and emphasize, yes, it will make a huge difference in getting a closed loop compared to the standard Intel stock cooler. It will drop the temps from 90 to around 50, closed loops don't perform as well as a good custom loop can, but the gap between them isn't enough to make a realistic difference - what I mean is, it won't give you any noticeable performance gains, but it can help out when tweaking overclocks. I never had a closed loop, so I can't say with confidence what their performance level is at, but I am confident it will drop the temps to around 55-60 at the very most, direct core temps, at peak performance - non stress test.

I just want to say, only get a custom loop if you have love for it, if you have crazy wild dreams at night about it. Don't expect a world of difference between open and closed loops in terms of how much heat you will dissipate for that single CPU. What I mean is, for a single CPU, you hit a brick wall pretty soon as far as how much heat you will be dissipating, no matter how many radiators you put on there. It's asymptotic. You only need more if you are putting on more hardware, but for a CPU a good 480mm would be about where you see the most heat dissipation efficiency, anything after that becomes a bit of a waste of money. Only thing better than both would be a chiller...or put the PC inside the freezer...that also works 😛

Good luck, have fun!

jab383
Level 13
Near-instant temperature rise is common. It has to do with the quick rise in power consumed by the CPU and the temperature difference needed to get the watts out of the package.

Those temperatures do seem high, but then the stock cooler isn't exactly 'cool.' I have a low opinion of the cooler and even lower opinion of the thick blobs of 'TIM' screened onto it. Even with an actual TIM applied thin like Arne describes, the stock cooler is rated only to the CPU's stock TDP power level - 84 watts. That gets you over 85C temperatures when doing anything that draws over 80 watts.

I strongly suggest a better designed cooling arrangement. The first suggestion is an all-in-one water cooler -- a little more costly than most air coolers, but much more cost effective.

Jeff

Arne_Saknussemm
Level 40
If there is good contact with your CPU and max voltage is normal (which should give normal max temps) and the conclusion is the stock cooler is totally insufficient to the task then yes a H100i will make a huge difference and is a good halfway house while you set up a custom loop.

The RAM...yes that's why I asked if you were using the XMP profile and to have a look if that was setting any high voltages etc...

redlinezak
Level 7
Thanks very much for all the advice and a freindly welcome.

This is my first pc as i have always been a playstation gamer (only racing games) but i have got very enthusiastic (and quite a bit poorer) quite quickly so yes i do lie there thinking about cooling etc lol.
My plan is (again still learning on a very steep curve) to do either a single loop with 2 240mm rads cooling the cpu, gpu and MB or to try and fit in a twin loop one for the CPU and MB and another for the GPU.

The only problem is i only have 1 bay remaining so putting a twin loop may be difficulat as im guessing i would need twin reservoirs.
Anyway i have just ordered the corsair cooler for now and will fit that friday and report back .

Incidentally why is the corsair known as closed loop? Is it because you dont fill it up but it comes pre filled?

Thanks

Nath