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ROG STRIX B350-F GAMING issues

theprob
Level 7
Hello,

Anyone experienced the following with the mentioned board:

After 6/10 system starts my system don't see the LAN adapter or my mouse at all. I need to restart the system or replug my mouse to solve the issue. I've experienced the mouse connection issue within UEFI too. Furthermore I experiencing further annoying problems, such as random video signal loose (especially when I start a fan calibration within AISuite 3). After that, I can only revive my system with a hardreset.

I tried to reinstall windows/nvidia driver/chipset driver, etc. And of course, I have the latest BIOS version.

Now, I sent back the board to the vendor, because ASUS Support advised that. They will revise it. I hope soo, that they won't evalute that it's just a SW related issue...
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1,485 REPLIES 1,485

Equinox187 wrote:
More information would be needed like for example is it a clean install of windows and what version of windows and while you say its all default has the bios set the DOCP for the ram and are you using a graphics card or the built in RX Vega 11 graphics.

In any case TDR Video Failure points to graphics issue usually driver related but not always, I had the same issue several months back and i tried everything from totally removing drivers to using old drivers and even the windows install refresh option no of which worked and in the end a format and fresh install of windows is what did the trick, so i can only assume that something was wrong with the windows install.


Clean install of Windows 10, latest build of Windows 10 Pro (April 2018) and no, If I want to set it to DOCP I have to manually set it to DOCP so it's at (Auto) stock 2133MHz. I posted my PCPartPicker page which shows my build parts, all of them. No GPU, just 2400G. The TDR Video Failure (Atikmpag.sys) happens all the time. Fresh install or not. This happened with the same exact last build but I replace the motherboard and CPU for an even exchange just incase they were bad. Same issues. I was told I needed to change the SOC voltage but not sure exactly what they mean by it. I want to make sure, when I read SOC voltage are they talking about VDDCR SOC Voltage in the BIOS? Cause if that's all I need to try then I'll see if it works. Then I need to offset but not sure by how much. It's currently set to 1.062v. Was told to set it to 1.2v.

FredNation wrote:
Clean install of Windows 10, latest build of Windows 10 Pro (April 2018) and no, If I want to set it to DOCP I have to manually set it to DOCP so it's at (Auto) stock 2133MHz. I posted my PCPartPicker page which shows my build parts, all of them. No GPU, just 2400G. The TDR Video Failure (Atikmpag.sys) happens all the time. Fresh install or not. This happened with the same exact last build but I replace the motherboard and CPU for an even exchange just incase they were bad. Same issues. I was told I needed to change the SOC voltage but not sure exactly what they mean by it. I want to make sure, when I read SOC voltage are they talking about VDDCR SOC Voltage in the BIOS? Cause if that's all I need to try then I'll see if it works. Then I need to offset but not sure by how much. It's currently set to 1.062v. Was told to set it to 1.2v.


You need to increase the SOC when you set DOCP or OC the ram mine is set to 1.1v SOC at 2933MHz I would not go as high as 1.2v and if i recall that is the safe max, if it is ram related then i would put the soc to 1.1v then push up the main ram voltage a little and test the stability

Equinox187 wrote:
You need to increase the SOC when you set DOCP or OC the ram mine is set to 1.1v SOC at 2933MHz I would not go as high as 1.2v and if i recall that is the safe max, if it is ram related then i would put the soc to 1.1v then push up the main ram voltage a little and test the stability


74263

When you say SOC, you're talking about what I'm pointing at the picture above right? If so, do I offset it to "+" at ".100" to make it 1.20v? I'm willing to try it to see if it fixes my issue.

BIOS v3803, the latest BIOS v4011 kept doing the same so I just replaced the motherboard.

When you say SOC, you're talking about what I'm pointing at the picture above right (see comment #995)? If so, do I offset it to "+" at ".100" to make it 1.20v? I'm willing to try it to see if it fixes my issue.

BIOS v3803, the latest BIOS v4011 kept doing the same so I just replaced the motherboard.

74286

So I did it and I didn't crash for about 2 hours. That's good to it crashing within 10-30 minutes or so in games. My BIOS is at version 3803. Now I keep reading version 3805 is really stable. So I'm going reset BIOS to default, update it to 3805 & hopefully it doesn't crash. If it does, I'll then change the setting in the BIOS in the picture above.

Hi guys,

So I have the following:
MB: Rog Strix B350F
RAM: Kingston HyperX RGB 16GB 8x2
OS: Windows 10
Aura Sync Version: 1.07.36

I cannot sync my RAM to Aura Sync.
Any info how?

Thanks

Hi, I have the same a similar issue with my STRIX X370-F + 1800X (random crash in windows under load or idle)
symptoms: black screen, QLED flashing YELLOW
I had HyperX 3200Mhz DDR4 I thought it was the RAM and bought Trident Z 3200Mhz RGB and the same issue
I've tested EVERYTHING replaced every component I'm down to try and test it with another CPU because my brother has the same build and it works for him
It's the most frustrating PC issue I've ever encountered

larnon wrote:
Hello everyone,

I have newly registered on forums just to voice some of the problems I am facing with this motherboard. I really need to know if its just my motherboard that is bad or it is a general UEFI issue that can be fixed later on. I need to know now so that i can return it before the return window closes.

I have R5 1600 installed along with Corsair LPX 16 3200 CL16 RAM.
Windows 10 is fully updated. Fresh installation.
UEFI version is 0805.( I also tried the one with 0402 or something)

Everything is at stock. Zero OC.

Here are the issues;

1) After a cold boot, sometimes the LAN adapter is not working. The lights don't blink and computer does not see any connection( No adapter ). After a reset it starts to work again. This happened with both of the UEFI versions i tried, but more so with the latest.
2) After a cold boot, sometimes computer does not boot, only blackscreen and stays there. CPU q-led is lighting red constantly. Need to reset.
3) One time, again after a cold boot, blackscreen, DRAM q-led is blinking. Need to reset.
4) Latest version of Memtest86 does not work. Computer resets while the program is retrieving hardware information. (Exactly after it says "Retrieving memory controller information" or something like that). But it works if it is started up as old BIOS version. I tried with different USB drives (2.0 and 3.0) and also just with single stick of memory. Problem still persists.

Now I did 9 hours of Memtest86 which resulted in 2 passes of zero errors. I also did 3.5 hours of Prime95 custom blend test(12000 MB of RAM). No errors. No crashes. Nothing.

This is a brand new computer with brand new Windows installation. It's been only a week.
One time, while shutting down, Windows got stuck in "Getting windows ready. Don't turn off your computer". I have waited an hour and gave up, Needed to reset.
And one time, while playing Overwatch, the game crashed back to desktop. Which is strange because, I played that game on my 7-years old PC(Phenom II 955, 8GB DDR3) for months and it NEVER crashed before.

Please someone tell me i am not the only one experiencing these issues. I am so bummed. I have waited 7 years to finally upgrade my PC. Finally able to play some games that i wasn't able to for the last 5 years. I just wanted play games at peace, with no problems 😞

Update: I just tried to cold boot again. After bios screen, screen went black, no signal. After 10 sec or so, DRAM q-led started to blink again. I had to reset it. While booting up, windows disk scan&repair popped up, did it's thing. Now I am back in windows. What is going on? 😞
Update2: I wanted to revert to original bios that the board came with, but support site is down.

larnon wrote:
Hello everyone,

I have newly registered on forums just to voice some of the problems I am facing with this motherboard. I really need to know if its just my motherboard that is bad or it is a general UEFI issue that can be fixed later on. I need to know now so that i can return it before the return window closes.

I have R5 1600 installed along with Corsair LPX 16 3200 CL16 RAM.
Windows 10 is fully updated. Fresh installation.
UEFI version is 0805.( I also tried the one with 0402 or something)

Everything is at stock. Zero OC.

Here are the issues;

1) After a cold boot, sometimes the LAN adapter is not working. The lights don't blink and computer does not see any connection( No adapter ). After a reset it starts to work again. This happened with both of the UEFI versions i tried, but more so with the latest.
2) After a cold boot, sometimes computer does not boot, only blackscreen and stays there. CPU q-led is lighting red constantly. Need to reset.
3) One time, again after a cold boot, blackscreen, DRAM q-led is blinking. Need to reset.
4) Latest version of Memtest86 does not work. Computer resets while the program is retrieving hardware information. (Exactly after it says "Retrieving memory controller information" or something like that). But it works if it is started up as old BIOS version. I tried with different USB drives (2.0 and 3.0) and also just with single stick of memory. Problem still persists.

Now I did 9 hours of Memtest86 which resulted in 2 passes of zero errors. I also did 3.5 hours of Prime95 custom blend test(12000 MB of RAM). No errors. No crashes. Nothing.

This is a brand new computer with brand new Windows installation. It's been only a week.
One time, while shutting down, Windows got stuck in "Getting windows ready. Don't turn off your computer". I have waited an hour and gave up, Needed to reset.
And one time, while playing Overwatch, the game crashed back to desktop. Which is strange because, I played that game on my 7-years old PC(Phenom II 955, 8GB DDR3) for months and it NEVER crashed before.

Please someone tell me i am not the only one experiencing these issues. I am so bummed. I have waited 7 years to finally upgrade my PC. Finally able to play some games that i wasn't able to for the last 5 years. I just wanted play games at peace, with no problems 😞

Update: I just tried to cold boot again. After bios screen, screen went black, no signal. After 10 sec or so, DRAM q-led started to blink again. I had to reset it. While booting up, windows disk scan&repair popped up, did it's thing. Now I am back in windows. What is going on? 😞
Update2: I wanted to revert to original bios that the board came with, but support site is down.

First off, you need to get on the latest BIOS. I see at least one issue you listed that is fixed with BIOS update (LAN issue).

New here. Just wanted to say thank you, you guys helped me so much when it comes to this board! I do have two small issues maybe you guys can help me out with but first here are my specs:

Ryzen 1700 @3.6
16GB RAM / 2933mhz
Asus B350-F with 1001 Bios

1. My RGB strip on my stock Ryzen cooler seems to be off. When using Asus Aura the RGB color will not change to any shade of blue. Not sure if this is common or not but I don't know how else to fix it. No matter what effect I choose in Aura it never is right and always skips the blue color.

2. I noticed in Windows that it reports my CPU being 3.6ghz CPU but its running at 3.18ghz. Is there something I can do in the BIOS to not have it throttle the CPU and just have it run constant at 3.6?

HyperSquirrels wrote:
New here. Just wanted to say thank you, you guys helped me so much when it comes to this board! I do have two small issues maybe you guys can help me out with but first here are my specs:

Ryzen 1700 @3.6
16GB RAM / 2933mhz
Asus B350-F with 1001 Bios

1. My RGB strip on my stock Ryzen cooler seems to be off. When using Asus Aura the RGB color will not change to any shade of blue. Not sure if this is common or not but I don't know how else to fix it. No matter what effect I choose in Aura it never is right and always skips the blue color.

2. I noticed in Windows that it reports my CPU being 3.6ghz CPU but its running at 3.18ghz. Is there something I can do in the BIOS to not have it throttle the CPU and just have it run constant at 3.6?


Regarding issue 1 make sure you have the RGB plugged in the right way round as it can be plugged in both ways but only one works as for the blue it depends on your settings, If you want a static color make sure in the setings it is set to By Areas you can then use the color wheel to select the desired color then apply.

As for Issue 2 do you have a manual over clock set in the bios? If so do you have the Windows power profile set to high performance? If so and you are running the latest version of Windows 10 then you might have the same issue that I had, I posted the issue and fix a few pages back but will repost below.



The following might apply to you if you have just updated to latest version of windows 10 ver 1709 and it was a issue that bugged me for a few hours as i tracked down a fix.

So my PC is over clocked to 3.8GHz and set so it should always be this regardless of use and let the power drop when in idle and this worked perfectly in the old version of windows 10 it always reported it as 3.79GHz, however after the update to version 1709 of windows 10 even though the base speed reflected my OC the actual speed was only 3.26GHz and even under 100% prime load would only go to a max of 3.65GHz rather than running at the 3.8GHz as before and would fluctuate a lot ( and yes windows was set to high performance and also tried AMD power setting ), what tipped me to this was lower FPS in games and terrible stuttering in games and general programs.

After some searching on the internet I traced the issue to a registry setting specifically AmdPPM, on the old version of windows 10 AmdPPM start was set to 4 ( Disabled ) but in the new version this is set to 3 ( Enabled ) and so forcing windows not to use 100% of the CPU even if you have the power profile set to high performance 100%.

Below is where to find the option in the registry but before you mess with it be careful or back up first.

Open the registry and go to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Servic es\AmdPPM then set the 'Start' value to '4' then reboot

The problem you described when it comes to the CPU throttling is the EXACT same problem I am having. I am manually OCing form the BIOS, I do have the latest W10 and I'm using AMD's power profile. I will try this fix when I get home.

When it comes to the RGB issue I have made sure it was plugged in properly to the MB. Whats strange is when I run the Aura calibration and it asks me what color is showing when it gets to blue it just doesn't show, its black. Now when I was first installing this motherboard I realized there were two RBG inputs on the motherboard. My CPU was already hooked up to the one closest to the top. I have a Phanteks LED strip and I know the board came with an adapter so I thought I'd hook up the strip to the second RBG thats located at the bottom. So I hooked the adapter up and then proceeded to plug the Phanteks LED strip into the motherboard with the computer still on...yeah, I know. I heard a loud pop and smoke started coming from the bottom of the board. I couldn't see where exactly but in the general area where the second RGB input is. I immediately turned off the computer and unplugged the LED strip. I think, and I'm about 90% sure that my CPU RGB light was working prior to this incident. Can I have damage the board? By plugging that strip into the bottom RGB and causing that smoke could it directly affect the other RGB input where my CPU is plugged into?

I have about 3 days left before I can't return this board to the store. I am thinking about pulling it and exchanging it for another. Should I just do that to make sure I have a brand new board that isn't potentially messed up?


Equinox187 wrote:
The following might apply to you if you have just updated to latest version of windows 10 ver 1709 and it was a issue that bugged me for a few hours as i tracked down a fix.

So my PC is over clocked to 3.8GHz and set so it should always be this regardless of use and let the power drop when in idle and this worked perfectly in the old version of windows 10 it always reported it as 3.79GHz, however after the update to version 1709 of windows 10 even though the base speed reflected my OC the actual speed was only 3.26GHz and even under 100% prime load would only go to a max of 3.65GHz rather than running at the 3.8GHz as before and would fluctuate a lot ( and yes windows was set to high performance and also tried AMD power setting ), what tipped me to this was lower FPS in games and terrible stuttering in games and general programs.

After some searching on the internet I traced the issue to a registry setting specifically AmdPPM, on the old version of windows 10 AmdPPM start was set to 4 ( Disabled ) but in the new version this is set to 3 ( Enabled ) and so forcing windows not to use 100% of the CPU even if you have the power profile set to high performance 100%.

Below is where to find the option in the registry but before you mess with it be careful or back up first.

Open the registry and go to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Servic es\AmdPPM then set the 'Start' value to '4' then reboot