Maximus VI Formula Discussion Thread

[Raja]

Maximus VI Formula Overview and Discussion Thread
The Maximus VI Formula should be available to purchase in a few weeks. A motherboard many have been waiting for, and for good reason. Plenty of cool features on offer, we won't go into them all, but have picked out some of the salient ones for you to check out below:

Board layout and features at a glance:



Gaming Features



SupremeFX






The Maximus VI Formula sports a specialized audio solution called SupremeFX. Based on Realtek’s latest ALC1150 chipset, the Cirrus Logic DAC and the TPA6120 headphone amplifier and an optimized PCB layout - isolating PCB layers and spacing sensitive traces away from other areas of the motherboard. Shielding is also utilized to minimize spurious noise from entering signal lines. High quality capacitors are used for power supply decoupling to minimize ripple and provide a low impedance at audio critical frequencies. The end result is a 120dB SNR, placing the Maximus VI Formula's onboard audio solution on par with the best discrete soundcards available.


On the software side, the latest addition to the package is Sonic Radar:






The Sonic Radar GUI


Sonic Radar is a HUD that is useful in FPS games. It shows a visual representation of where sounds are coming from. The location of footsteps, gunshots, explosions and anything else is shown in the 360 degree HUD while gaming:




BF3 – Sonic Radar showing direction of audio effects



The HUD can be made more transparent and its location on the screen changed. Sonic Radar very useful feature when gaming with stereo headsets, where surround effects are simulated and may not be easy to pinpoint.



On the subject of headsets, Perfect Voice has been added to improve the clarity of VOIP calls. It’s a software based filter that uses digital signal processing to remove noise pickup from your mic while making a call:






DSP helps reduce ambient noise for clearer comms


Perfect Voice works with any plug in microphone/headset to clean up voice transmission during calls.




ROG RAMDISK




With high density memory modules and kits becoming the norm, many of us have an abundance of free memory on our systems that never gets utilized. ROG RAM Disk has been coded to take advantage of that free space to help speed up the system.





ROG RAM Disk GUI


Unlike many free RAM drive tools, ROG RAM DISK has no size limitations – up to 80% of the free memory (not used by the OS) can be configured as a RAM drive.


To get you an idea of how fast a RAM drive is, check the screenshot below:





10000 MB/s sequential write speeds


Applications stored on ROG RAM DISK are written to hard storage (HHD/SSD) when the system is prompted for shutdown.



Of course, re-installing games to the RAM DISK would be a painful experience. That's why ROG RAM DISK has a feature know as Junction Mode.








Setting a junction point to a game folder allows critical game files to be transferred to the RAM DISK without interfering with the original installation. Just point the software at the game folder and it will take care of the rest. This way, critical files such as maps can be accessed directly from the RAM DISK, speeding up load times.



Discussing features is fine, but what really matters for many users in knowing a board can overclock and run stable. How about 24 hour stability testing? Here's a few screenies from JJ, showing the Maximus VI Formula running different memory configs and CPU overclocks:




Over 24 hours AIDA64 passed at 4.7GHz DDR3-2800 16GB 4x4




Over 24 hours AIDA64 passed at 4.6GHz DDR3-2133 32GB 8X4





4.8GHz DDR3-2400 AIDA 1 Hour - right at the limits of the CPU and cooling






Use this thread to discuss/share results when you get your boards folks 🙂

[Antony-rog]

exwar wrote:
Yes mouse and keyboard does not work now :mad:

Thanks for answering!
I was thinking of trying this one, so I'll wait more to see if they fix this.
Could you manage to flash it back?

[thebadwolf79]

exwar wrote:
Yes mouse and keyboard does not work now :mad:

Try disabling the Intel XHCI in the BIOS if your mouse and keyboard are not working at boot and when resuming from sleep.

For some reason it works fine on the 0804 but when I was working with the 1203 it was causing mine to not work on boot and when resuming from sleep. If you want to keep on the latest BIOS, then disabling that should improve things for ya.

[Vega]

Asus reps, could you look into the USB Hub issue with this motherboard/BIOS? I use a lot of USB devices and I have a lot of USB hubs.

The problem is, if a certain amount of USB hubs is plugged in, the BIOS locks up on POST. I've never had this issue with any other computer I've had. And no, changing BIOS settings related to USB doesn't fix the issue. I've tried them all. It seems around hub quantity #10 is where it locks up. No, I don't physically have that many hubs, its just that it counts a lot of "built in" devices in the motherboard as "hubs" too.

[MrAnonymous]

Ultimate question.

Has anyone found information published by Asus on the methods used to make crosschill? Is there any factual information that can be found?

Also, is there anyone who has been watercooling their loop with copper blocks/nickel blocks/and also this aluminum anodized block on the motherboard? Have you inspected the cross chill after months of use within a loop?

Really curious if cross chill is worth using or if I will be putting a loop which is worth multiple times the cost of this motherboard at jeopardy

[Keyzman]

I'm running a custom loop with GPU / CPU / Crosschill. Operational for about 3 months with distilled water + Feser base corrosion blocker. There is really no point of using Crosschill for functional purposes, but I've included it in my loop because it made the piping layout much better organized.

I've done quite a bit of research on this and the consensus seems to be is that mixing metals will cause galvanic corrosion no matter what you try (aside from using a non-conductive fluid like Fluorinert). It's all about the rate of corrosion. I'm sure most of us would be ok with the fact that the water-blocks will show significant corrosion after 10 years. If it's one or two years - different story.

Things like anodizing the aluminum, using corrosion blockers (antifreeze) and changing the coolant every 6 months will slow the rate of galvanic corrosion down (although some people don't agree with the last point). As to how much you can slow it down, and what it will mean it terms of lifespan - hard to say. Due to long time-frames and possibility of you ruining your blocks (let alone disassembling your loop on a regular basis) no-one that I know has attempted to conduct such an experiment.
ROG has published an article where they tried to prove that their anodizing solves galvanic corrosion issues by using salt-spraying on the Crosschill to simulate several years in a water loop. The article has many problems - it does not appear that they created a galvanic cell through their salt-spraying (whatever this is), haven't seen any sort of correlations between their method and real-life loops, and by the end of the test the block did start to show signs of corrosion. In theory, a perfectly anodized aluminum block should slow galvanic corrosion down quite a bit. In practice, all it takes is a small imperfection for the corrosion to start.

Fortunately, EK has recently released a water block for M6F - it replaces the Crosschill with a nickel-plated copper block and also has a second block for the south bridge. I've bought one last week and going to be installing it in the near future. If there are any signs of corrosion on the Crosschill, I'll post some pictures (unlikely, since I've only been running the loop for 3 months).

All in all, it is a let-down on Asus' part, one that costs ~$100 to fix. However, aside from the aluminum waterblock, M6F is a superb motherboard. So my advice is - if your heart is set on M6F and you want to include VRM in your loop - buy the EK block.

[MrAnonymous]

Keyzman wrote:
I'm running a custom loop with GPU / CPU / Crosschill. Operational for about 3 months with distilled water + Feser base corrosion blocker. There is really no point of using Crosschill for functional purposes, but I've included it in my loop because it made the piping layout much better organized.

I've done quite a bit of research on this and the consensus seems to be is that mixing metals will cause galvanic corrosion no matter what you try (aside from using a non-conductive fluid like Fluorinert). It's all about the rate of corrosion. I'm sure most of us would be ok with the fact that the water-blocks will show significant corrosion after 10 years. If it's one or two years - different story.

Things like anodizing the aluminum, using corrosion blockers (antifreeze) and changing the coolant every 6 months will slow the rate of galvanic corrosion down (although some people don't agree with the last point). As to how much you can slow it down, and what it will mean it terms of lifespan - hard to say. Due to long time-frames and possibility of you ruining your blocks (let alone disassembling your loop on a regular basis) no-one that I know has attempted to conduct such an experiment.
ROG has published an article where they tried to prove that their anodizing solves galvanic corrosion issues by using salt-spraying on the Crosschill to simulate several years in a water loop. The article has many problems - it does not appear that they created a galvanic cell through their salt-spraying (whatever this is), haven't seen any sort of correlations between their method and real-life loops, and by the end of the test the block did start to show signs of corrosion. In theory, a perfectly anodized aluminum block should slow galvanic corrosion down quite a bit. In practice, all it takes is a small imperfection for the corrosion to start.

Fortunately, EK has recently released a water block for M6F - it replaces the Crosschill with a nickel-plated copper block and also has a second block for the south bridge. I've bought one last week and going to be installing it in the near future. If there are any signs of corrosion on the Crosschill, I'll post some pictures (unlikely, since I've only been running the loop for 3 months).

All in all, it is a let-down on Asus' part, one that costs ~$100 to fix. However, aside from the aluminum waterblock, M6F is a superb motherboard. So my advice is - if your heart is set on M6F and you want to include VRM in your loop - buy the EK block.

Thanks Keyzman, seems you made an account here to post just as I did!
I've spoke with some other people while about this. One person opened the block to test and confirmed it is a type 3 anodizing. He mentioned the type 1/2 are more of a surface cover and the type 3 is a hard thick layer, however, it can expand once >80C and end up cracking.( very hard to get that block to >80C )

My worry is just what you said, it only takes one imperfection.

You mentioned you will be installing the m6e from EK, I was a bit confused because it looks as the soutbridge block does NOT allow use with a non watercooled graphics card. It just seemed you cant use it with a regular card in place. Especially dual GPU if you aren't plugging single in the second slot

Please do me and other owners a favor by posting these pics! I want to purchase the waterblock it is just a shame I am keeping the gpu's cooled on air this time around. (Warranty on a $600 card is not a joke 🙂 )

[Keyzman]

Sure, I'll post pictures when I get around to the install.

Are you concerned that a stock cooler on GPU won't clear the fittings/tubes to the south-bridge block? Looking at the picture it seems that the ports on the south-block are just above the second PCI port.



To be honest, Im not sure if I even want to use the south-block, since it doesn't get hot enough to warrant water-cooling, but would add extra head to the loop, reducing my flow-rate.

[JackNaylorPE]

MrAnonymous wrote:
Ultimate question.

Has anyone found information published by Asus on the methods used to make crosschill? Is there any factual information that can be found?

Also, is there anyone who has been watercooling their loop with copper blocks/nickel blocks/and also this aluminum anodized block on the motherboard? Have you inspected the cross chill after months of use within a loop?

Really curious if cross chill is worth using or if I will be putting a loop which is worth multiple times the cost of this motherboard at jeopardy

1. No matter what kind of aluminum is used or how it is treated, you will NOT be putting anything else in the build at risk. Aluminum is the least noble of all the metals mentioned and that means it is scientifically impossible for the presence of aluminum to result in corrosion of copper or nickel .... if anything it will protect the nickel / copper as it will act as a sacrificial anode much like a zinc on a boat. Whenever there is mixed metals, ONLY the least noble metal will corrode.... if in direct contact, or if the fluid is an electrolyte. That's what galvanic action is ..... electrons leave the lesser noble metal and flow to the more noble. The metal that leaves aluminum in such instances, if such occurs, will form oxides that may collect in blocks but this is easily cleaned and once done the copper / nickel surfaces will be as good as new.

2, The Asus WB as well as the ones used by Gigabyte are made of Type 3 anodized aluminum and coated as per standard anodizing procedures. I have been working with anodized aluminum for over 25 years in harsh corrosive environments and find it holds up very well. Given this experience, I had no concerns with regard to purchasing this MoBo.

3. I ran the loop for 5 days on DW before switching to Mayhems Pastel (Red) Coolant. I did notice at the time of change out that some paint flakes had collected in the CPU (clear acrylic top) Block, my guess dislodged from assembling / reassembling fittings in the rads while installing / and adjusting lengths of rigid acrylic tubing. They were removed by reverse flushing DW thru the block. However, I wanted to check and see if any more had collected last weekend and partially drained the loop..... blocks were free from any deleterious materials and the Crosschill, when examined thru the ports, looked fine.

4. I don't much look for an internet consensus on topics such as this as most of those parroting what they "read on the internet" (reminded of the "french model" commercial) have no training in corrosion protection, chemistry, etc. If you see it stated that the presence of aluminum can cause copper or nickel to corrode, it's a given that the source is "misinformed".

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmx4twCK3_I

5. The usage I am talking about over the 25 years is in waste water treatment plants and marine environments ..... salt water is a great electrolyte and superb at providing the necessary electrical conduit necessary for galvanic corrosion to take place. Regardless of what metals are in the loop, without direct contact or an electrolyte to "carry" the electrons, galvanic corrosion is impossible. As for the salt spray test, anyone working in the field of corrosion protection is familiar with this test. It's not something "made up" by Asus, it **is** the standard method which engineers use to determine suitability of materials. Standards are promulgated by ASTM and ISO as well other standards organizations. The use of a salt spray presents a "way over the top" environment for a water cooling environment.

http://saltspraytesting.com/

I used two EK Blacks in my build but anyone who has been into water cooling in the last 3 years is well aware of EK's past nickel plating problems.... while I (obviously, since I have 3 of them in my siggie build) have no concern about EK's current plating procedures, I have less concern about the anodized water block.

The EK Block however presents some issues .... they should have made both pieces available separately.... as that Bridge block has proven impossible to install in some situations .... not bad for flex tube but rigid tubing presents quite a challenge. As far as imperfections.... the same holds true for the nickel plating process.... one small imperfection and the plating will peel. Some nice pics of this over on OCN.

6. It must be acknowledged that thermal expansion above 80C can cause anodizing to crack .... My block is currently at 40C and the water in it has never exceeded about 35C so no worries there ..... but reservoir manufacturers also disclaim warranty if ya temperature exceeds as little as 50C, so not quite sure why this would ever be a concern.

7. I started designing plants and piping systems in 1976 and in all that time, dissimilar metals protection in pipelines, storage tanks in the water and waste water industry and in all that time have seen one instance of galvanic corrosion on anodized aluminum. An operator has decided that the aluminum bolts provided by the equipment manufacturer weren't strong enough so he used Stainless Steel, and he torqued them down way well above the amount stated in the manual. The over tightening actually cracked the aluminum and the salt solution stored in the fabricated item worked aggressively on the two dissimilar metals which were in direct physical contact. Without that contact, which occurred over the space of about 3 years, corrosion would have been drastically reduced.

I should also mention that other MoBo manufacturers are going this route. Was told a few days ago that Gigabyte has a aluminum WB on their G1.Sniper 5

[marrawi]

JackNaylorPE wrote:
1. No matter what kind of aluminum is used or how it is treated, you will NOT be putting anything else in the build at risk. Aluminum is the least noble of all the metals mentioned and that means it is scientifically impossible for the presence of aluminum to result in corrosion of copper or nickel .... if anything it will protect the nickel / copper as it will act as a sacrificial anode much like a zinc on a boat. Whenever there is mixed metals, ONLY the least noble metal will corrode.... if in direct contact, or if the fluid is an electrolyte. That's what galvanic action is ..... electrons leave the lesser noble metal and flow to the more noble. The metal that leaves aluminum in such instances, if such occurs, will form oxides that may collect in blocks but this is easily cleaned and once done the copper / nickel surfaces will be as good as new.

2, The Asus WB as well as the ones used by Gigabyte are made of Type 3 anodized aluminum and coated as per standard anodizing procedures. I have been working with anodized aluminum for over 25 years in harsh corrosive environments and find it holds up very well. Given this experience, I had no concerns with regard to purchasing this MoBo.

3. I ran the loop for 5 days on DW before switching to Mayhems Pastel (Red) Coolant. I did notice at the time of change out that some paint flakes had collected in the CPU (clear acrylic top) Block, my guess dislodged from assembling / reassembling fittings in the rads while installing / and adjusting lengths of rigid acrylic tubing. They were removed by reverse flushing DW thru the block. However, I wanted to check and see if any more had collected last weekend and partially drained the loop..... blocks were free from any deleterious materials and the Crosschill, when examined thru the ports, looked fine.

4. I don't much look for an internet consensus on topics such as this as most of those parroting what they "read on the internet" (reminded of the "french model" commercial) have no training in corrosion protection, chemistry, etc. If you see it stated that the presence of aluminum can cause copper or nickel to corrode, it's a given that the source is "misinformed".

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmx4twCK3_I

5. The usage I am talking about over the 25 years is in waste water treatment plants and marine environments ..... salt water is a great electrolyte and superb at providing the necessary electrical conduit necessary for galvanic corrosion to take place. Regardless of what metals are in the loop, without direct contact or an electrolyte to "carry" the electrons, galvanic corrosion is impossible. As for the salt spray test, anyone working in the field of corrosion protection is familiar with this test. It's not something "made up" by Asus, it **is** the standard method which engineers use to determine suitability of materials. Standards are promulgated by ASTM and ISO as well other standards organizations. The use of a salt spray presents a "way over the top" environment for a water cooling environment.

http://saltspraytesting.com/

I used two EK Blacks in my build but anyone who has been into water cooling in the last 3 years is well aware of EK's past nickel plating problems.... while I (obviously, since I have 3 of them in my siggie build) have no concern about EK's current plating procedures, I have less concern about the anodized water block.

The EK Block however presents some issues .... they should have made both pieces available separately.... as that Bridge block has proven impossible to install in some situations .... not bad for flex tube but rigid tubing presents quite a challenge. As far as imperfections.... the same holds true for the nickel plating process.... one small imperfection and the plating will peel. Some nice pics of this over on OCN.

6. It must be acknowledged that thermal expansion above 80C can cause anodizing to crack .... My block is currently at 40C and the water in it has never exceeded about 35C so no worries there ..... but reservoir manufacturers also disclaim warranty if ya temperature exceeds as little as 50C, so not quite sure why this would ever be a concern.

7. I started designing plants and piping systems in 1976 and in all that time, dissimilar metals protection in pipelines, storage tanks in the water and waste water industry and in all that time have seen one instance of galvanic corrosion on anodized aluminum. An operator has decided that the aluminum bolts provided by the equipment manufacturer weren't strong enough so he used Stainless Steel, and he torqued them down way well above the amount stated in the manual. The over tightening actually cracked the aluminum and the salt solution stored in the fabricated item worked aggressively on the two dissimilar metals which were in direct physical contact. Without that contact, which occurred over the space of about 3 years, corrosion would have been drastically reduced.

I should also mention that other MoBo manufacturers are going this route. Was told a few days ago that Gigabyte has a aluminum WB on their G1.Sniper 5

I know it's been few months since you posted this, but I still want to thank you for taking the time and share your extensive knowledge with us on metals, specifically with anodized aluminum. I feel much better now with having the CrossChill in my all copper loop. You saved me 120$ as I was about to get the EK blocks for the M6F 🙂 Thanks again!

[JackNaylorPE]

marrawi wrote:
I know it's been few months since you posted this, but I still want to thank you for taking the time and share your extensive knowledge with us on metals, specifically with anodized aluminum. I feel much better now with having the CrossChill in my all copper loop. You saved me 120$ as I was about to get the EK blocks for the M6F 🙂 Thanks again!

My pleasure ..... it's frustrating to see the same "sky is falling" posts repeated over and over again. While I am sure that peeps have no malicious intent, the internet is kinda like the ole telephone game ya played as kids where a statement whispered into the first person's ear becomes something completely different by the time it gets to the end. I am reminded of this 🙂

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bufTna0WArc

While I wouldn't buy the separate blocks from EK, I do like the new EK Mono Blocks design that cover the CPU, and MoBo components with a single connection

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40852&utm_source...