Crosshair V Formula board meltdown

[Padlorr]

Hi, I recently had my Crosshair V Formula melt down during a stability test using Prime95 for a modest 4.4ghz overclock with the HT and NB both at 2600mhz. I started to smell burning plastic while monitoring core temps (staying below 60C) and I later found the 4 pin ATX power connector on my 750W PSU had melted (damaging the board). It left a burned plastic residue in the 4 pin socket so I'm not sure if I can use it again. The board is now frequently refusing to post on boot from shutdown (I can get it to boot by resetting the bios, but it seems flaky).

I'm disappointed because this seems like it could have been easily avoidable. The manual did not specify using the 8 pin over the 4 pin (or both) for overclocking, it simply instructed using one or the other (no warnings, no cautions, no guidelines, nothing). When I first installed the board I couldn't even find the 8 pin connector because of the cap that covered half of it, so I assumed the manual was inaccurate and there were just two 4 pin connectors to choose from. I tried to confirm which one to use in a chat with an Asus tech online, and I was told I could just use either one (with no preference given to using the 8 pin connector for overclocking). The forums and internet contain some debates about this and let's just say there isn't a clear consensus on whether or when to use the 8 pin vs the 4 pin (or both). Clearly, I should have been using the 8 pin connector (or both the 8 pin and 4 pin) for even modest overclocking of the FX-8150, and I feel the manual should have been clearer to recommend these configurations for overclocking which Asus may not support but their product is intended for.

This is my 2nd Asus board, and I can say I'm a real fan of Asus products. I understand why Asus does not officially support overclocking, but for a product that is made for it and marketed directly to enthusiasts, with lots of tools and software provided to encourage overclocking, I would have expected some better guidelines in the manual. I've already invested in a replacement for the PSU with the burned out connector, so I'm sincerely hoping I don't have to spring for a motherboard and/or cpu replacement on top of that.

I'm continuing to troubleshoot the boot issues I'm having, and I'm hoping that Asus will allow me to RMA the board under warranty (if necessary) on the basis that I followed the instructions in the manual to the letter and the board still melted down (so it either didn't perform to spec or the instructions in the manual were inadequate and misleading). Any help with diagnosis or RMA process would be most appreciated (how do I contact cl-jeffrey or cl-scott? Are those email prefixes to which I need to add @asus.com?).

[cl-Albert]

Padlorr wrote:
Hi Albert, thanks for your response (and I will get you a PM with the motherboard serial number when I take it apart tomorrow). As an update, I think some of the "flaky" issues I was having and failures to boot had to do with my bios settings at lower clock speeds (e.g. High LLC, etc.). I dialed those settings back for 3.6ghz (with and without Turbo) and I seem to be booting fine now. I'm testing a modest 4.0ghz OC now in Prime95 and temps and all look good so far. I'm very interested in what others have to say about how to check the board.

Hi Parker, if you're still under the warranty period and there is no big rush on your end, don't worry about getting me the serial number yet since it's not too important right now.

Padlorr wrote:

Regarding your 2nd point, I won't know if there's any significant physical damage to the 2nd 4 pin connector until I get my new PSU and try to plug the 4 pin power connector in there. If I can get the plug in, then the plastic residue from the melted PSU connector may not have done any real damage. If I can't plug it in then the connector on the board could be considered damaged because the plastic from the PSU melted in there rendering that connector unusable. I don't know, does that qualify as damage to the motherboard or not? Sounds like a grey area to me.

I'm told the repair department will reject warranty coverage if they can see any damage to your motherboard, so that's what I was getting at and just checking the appearance of your motherboard to find out if there is any evidence of what happened.

Padlorr wrote:

My main point (to your repair department) is that it would not have been damaged if the manual had provided proper instructions to populate the 8 pin connector as a matter of course, so my position is that Asus bears some responsibility for this occurrence since I followed the instructions in the manual (and advice of an Asus tech online) to the letter and it melted my PSU connector. Either the instructions were inadequate, or a defect in the motherboard caused this (and the damage) to occur. I'd therefore like to get it repaired (or replaced) under warranty if that connector is no longer usable. But we can wait and see if I can plug the 4 pin connector in first before going there.

1. I'm seeing a couple options for us to help you take care of it right now.
a. If your motherboard is still in pristine condition and there are no signs anything out of the ordinary happened, you should be able to RMA the board as normally without my involvement, but I'm thinking there must be something that looks different?
b. If there is physical damage to your motherboard that our repair department will not cover under warranty, then you probably want to continue working with me to find out what other options we can offer you (sorry for the delay, but still checking into this).
It sounds to me that we may just scrap your board if we see physical damage and not risk damaging components or having some other problems with the motherboard later, etc.

2. The best case scenario may be that you find everything is working okay after you get your new power supply, but we're also concerned the motherboard may damage components or the motherboard has problems later.
Well, hope this makes things a little more clear and others will correct me if necessary.

Thanks.

Albert

[Padlorr]

Hi Albert, thanks again for your detailed and thoughtful response (I really appreciate it!). I will try to get the serial number for future reference when I get my new PSU and try to plug it in. I'll report back to you on that either way.

Regarding damage, I can say in all honesty that the 4 pin connector does have some plastic residue visible inside it from the PSU connector. It does not appear to be melted itself, but the plastic that separates the pins may have been slightly damaged by removing the melted PSU connector. The male pins appear dirty, probably from the plastic residue from the PSU connector. It's no longer pristine because of this event, so it sounds like I'll be better working with you to see what you can do for me.

If I'm able to plug in the 4 pin connector from my new PSU and all seems to be working ok, I'd be inclined to just live with it. However, if you feel concerned about potential for damaging other components or problems cropping up later I'd like to hear your recommendation. I'm guessing where this may be heading, and I'm open to suggestions as long is it won't leave me with too much downtime.

I'm hoping that Asus will appreciate the points I've made about the manual being inadequate and try to work out an equitable solution. As I said, I really like Asus products, and it would go a long way.

[skellattarr]

the eight pin power connector that has half of it covered that plastic cover comes off so you can use all eight pins.

[Padlorr]

Thanks. Yes, I realize that now after my 4 pin connector burned out. As I said, I missed it at first because it was covered and thought there were just two 4 pin connectors (and I thought the manual was inaccurate referring to an 8 pin I couldn't see). If only the manual referred to the cap and recommended using the 8 pin over the 4 pin (or the 8 pin + the 4 pin for heavy overclocking).

[cl-Albert]

Hi Parker,

Just sent you a PM with our offer, so let me know if you didn't see it and what you think.

I mainly wanted to get your serial number just to double-check the model, but if it's any trouble at all, it's probably not worth it, so don't worry too much about it.

Thanks for your feedback, but unfortunately, I'm probably not qualified to say much about the 4-pin/8-pin connector issue although I can pass it along.
Not sure if you want to pursue it with the moderators and see if it's even worthy of a 'sticky' thread or can get the right people involved for this if they aren't looking into it already.

[HiVizMan]

I am going to jump in here re the user manual and the 8 pin EATX 12V power plug. I had a quick look at my user manual and I found that the manual is quite explicit that the 8 pin needs to be fitted and I quote.

"Do not forget to connect the 8-pin EATX 12V power plug; otherwise the system will not boot. "

In the opening paragraph when talking about power connectors the manual is quite clear about what connectors needed to be fitted. The only reference I could find to a optional connection is the EZ_PLUG where they specify it is only needed if you are going to be using multiple graphic cards.

I do agree that there could be more specific fitments advice and I do hope that this is addressed in future manuals.

I am truly sorry that you have had a problem and I do wish that you have it resolved in a way that is suitable to all. Your honesty in the possible damage to the 4 pin is commendable and huge respect for that. All to often I have seen folks tell huge fibs about damage to boards in the hope of pulling a fast one. This is clearly not the case here. I think an honest misunderstanding occurred and as I said I do hope it gets sorted.

[Padlorr]

Hi guys, thanks again for your responses and thoughts. I will check for that PM directly.

HiVizMan, I found the citation you referred on page 2-26, but unfortunately that information was missing in the Building your computer system section on page 2-41 (ATX Power connection) that I was focused on. At the very least, I think it's safe to say that these sections are not consistent because page 2-41 clearly suggests you can use either an 8 pin "OR" a 4 pin connection. It shows the main ATX connector, then it shows the 8 pin and it says "OR", and then a picture showing a 4 pin connector plugged into the 8 pin and then it says "OR" again, and then another picture of the 4 pin secondary connector. This is what led me down the wrong path in the beginning.

[Padlorr]

Update: I received the PSU upgrade but it was too big for my case, so I'm returning it. I tried to fit the 4 pin power connector and had a real hard time. I had to scrape the burned plastic residue from the 4 pin connector on the board to get it in but it wasn't all the way (there was about a 2 millimeter gap). I ended up slicing a couple of the spacers on the 4 pin connector on the board slightly, but it looks pretty clean.

I've reinstalled my old 750W PSU and think I'll try to use it for now. I've connected both the 8 pin and the 4 pin (which fits fine), so I think I'll try my luck with that. The 4 pin connector should convey power just fine, though it's lost the plastic shielding around 2 of the female prongs. Please let me know if anyone strongly recommends against using that 4 pin connector in this condition. If you recommend using only the 8 pin, then what are the OC limitations (in ghz) without supplementing with the 4 pin? Would I be safe with just the 8 pin up to 4.6ghz? That's about as high as I'd try to go.

[HiVizMan]

Yeah I fully agree with you as I said, there needs to be more specific fitment advice as in that section it is way to open to misinterpretation.

If that is all the damage that you can see, and the PSU connectors do fit. Power up first without anything fitted to your motherboard. So no CPU or anything like that.

If your board lights up and after a few minutes of being powered up there is no indication that things are amiss. Press the power button once. Again if after observing nothing amiss I would remove the power and fit my CPU and give it a go.

I have had 8 pin sockets melt on me before when pushing extreme voltage into my CPU benching so this is not new to me. 🙂

[Padlorr]

Thanks HiVizMan. Can you please forward that feedback (about needing clearer power connection guidelines in the manual, so future customers don't have the same problems)? It'll save them $$$ with fewer RMA issues.

Btw, can you recommend any upper OC ceiling (in ghz) I should try to stay below for 8 pin only? I have my semi-melted 4 pin connected and everything seems fine, but I only want to put minimum extra voltage through that one (and use it sort of like a relief valve). Should I stay below 4.2, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6 or what? I'm rockin' a stable 4.0 now and workin' my way back up.

Cheers,
Parker