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Advise on ROG used MOBO

selarom
Level 7
Hello!

Need your advise!

I was given a system comprised of

Asus Z87 Maximus VI Hero
Corsair 16GB DDR-3 1600mhz c10 Vengenace Pro
Intel Core i7 4790k
Corsair H60
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
PNY GTX 780 (will be replaced by my current GTX 1060)
Coolmax ZU-1000B 1KW power supply
Cooler Master HAF XB cube case (Don't like it, will replace it for sure)

The system booted but it was very dusty. I was able to install Win10 no problems. So I take things apart to clean it. I used a 3M electronics safe vacuum cleaner on the radiator, and fans. Didn't want to try on the motherboard.

So I put the system back together and at first it would show 00 in the Q-Code LED display and It would spin the fans and then shutdown by itself. I left the system alone for a couple of weeks until I could work on it again and now it wont turn on at all. It only shows the LEDs for system start, but that's it.

I tried re-seating the ram, power connections, removed the GPU, the SATA cables, tried one stick or RAM, removed CMOS jumper, removed front panel connections and nothing. I never took the cpu off, nor the cooler cpu block.

I still need to try with a different power supply (that coolmax 1kw PSU sells for around $100 and does not have the most glowing reviews in Newegg/Amazon) and see if it boots. If not then I believe that I killed the MOBO. I would still check in the ROG forums, I think I killed when dusting it. 😞

So I bought a new EVGA 650G3 power supply from Amazon to test it out... Also was considering buying a Z97-A motherboard which was well reviewed here and I can get on Amazon for $149 with a $30 Rebate, but I am very interested in a ROG Z97 board. Those boards go for between $175 and up on ebay, used or refurbished, sometimes without accessories. The same goes for used Z97 Pro and Z97 Deluxe board, which have more phases for the CPU. The Z97-WS would be very nice but it's crazy expensive.

So the big question is... Do you think it is worth it to get a used (even if not much abused) ROG board or go with a new board, even if it is not as nice but has a warranty for 3 years?
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11 REPLIES 11

xeromist
Moderator
I suppose it depends on what you want to do with it and how long you plan to keep it. If you just want it to work with the CPU and have a PCI-E slot for a single GPU then just about any compatible board will do. The less you spend on this board, the sooner you can get something newer (if that is your plan). If you plan to use premium features or you plan to keep the system for a while and might want them later then it could be worth spending a bit more.
A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. On my desk, I have a work station…

xeromist wrote:
I suppose it depends on what you want to do with it and how long you plan to keep it. If you just want it to work with the CPU and have a PCI-E slot for a single GPU then just about any compatible board will do. The less you spend on this board, the sooner you can get something newer (if that is your plan). If you plan to use premium features or you plan to keep the system for a while and might want them later then it could be worth spending a bit more.


Thank you!

I guess my plan is to have something that could hold me over maybe a year or two until I can get a something that's current for maybe end of 2018 or 2019. At least until USB 3.1 drives are ubiquitous and PCI-e 4.0 is the new normal. As it stands right now I'm using a HP Z400 workstation that I literally saved from being trashed. Fixed it (bad hard drives and raid card) and bought a used GTX1060 6GB and a 850 EVO 500B from Amazon and boom! Gaming PC for cheap. The CPU is a Westmere Xeon W3680 and has 12GB of Triple Channel RAM. Very old stuff!. And this "new" system would give me a top level i7 CPU, USB 3.0, SATA III and PCI-e 3.0. Add in my gtx1060 and the 850 EVO and I would have a very nice modern and relevant PC.

I also am not completely sure my current Z87 Maximus VI hero is completely dead. And fixing it would be better than having to buy a new board.

Any advise on how to troubleshoot this? Before the board stopped working, it would boot and show Q-Code 00 and then stop everything. Perhaps what was causing the 00 error is now preventing the whole thing to boot? If I can fix my Max VI Hero, then that would be better than having to buy a new board.


I already have a new EVGA 650 G3 PSU on the way and some Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste to try a different cooler I already have.

1) Even without a cooler, would a motherboard boot into bios?

2) Can I boot into Bios without any ram sticks?

Menthol
Level 14
Qcode 00 usually means either a dead board or CPU, when you say at first it booted did it boot to Windows or to bios? clear cmos by pushing the bios button on the I/O panel , hold it in for a few seconds

1. always have a cooler installed when turning on your system, the temperature will be to hot instantly and more than likely damage something but will definitely not boot
2. No, will not boot without at least 1 memory module installed

I would troubleshoot the board you have by laying it on a flat surface such as a motherboard box if you have one, if not any flat non conductive surface, use a small clean paint brush to clean off dust and dirt, or blow dust off
remove CPU and check for damaged, bent pins in CPU socket using a magnifying glass, (if pins are damaged, either try to carefully straighten then with a tooth pick or small blade)
65326
Carefully install CPU and heatsink (an over tightened heatsink or uneven tightened heatsink can be the cause of this issue), one stick of memory in a RED memory slot DIMM_A1, connect power supply cables, 24 pin and 8 pin, monitor cable to motherboard if you have an HDMI cable and see if it will boot to bios, if you do not have an HDMI capable monitor and cable then install the 780 first, if you still get Qcode 00 you could try flashing the bios using the Flashback method which is explained in the manual which can be downloaded from the ASUS support page for this board, if you still get code 00 which could be bad board or CPU you need to decide whether it is worthwhile to purchase another used board and or CPU, unless you know someone with a similar system that you could try your CPU in to verify it is OK

Menthol wrote:
Qcode 00 usually means either a dead board or CPU, when you say at first it booted did it boot to Windows or to bios? clear cmos by pushing the bios button on the I/O panel , hold it in for a few seconds

1. always have a cooler installed when turning on your system, the temperature will be to hot instantly and more than likely damage something but will definitely not boot
2. No, will not boot without at least 1 memory module installed

I would troubleshoot the board you have by laying it on a flat surface such as a motherboard box if you have one, if not any flat non conductive surface, use a small clean paint brush to clean off dust and dirt, or blow dust off
remove CPU and check for damaged, bent pins in CPU socket using a magnifying glass, (if pins are damaged, either try to carefully straighten then with a tooth pick or small blade)
65326
Carefully install CPU and heatsink (an over tightened heatsink or uneven tightened heatsink can be the cause of this issue), one stick of memory in a RED memory slot DIMM_A1, connect power supply cables, 24 pin and 8 pin, monitor cable to motherboard if you have an HDMI cable and see if it will boot to bios, if you do not have an HDMI capable monitor and cable then install the 780 first, if you still get Qcode 00 you could try flashing the bios using the Flashback method which is explained in the manual which can be downloaded from the ASUS support page for this board, if you still get code 00 which could be bad board or CPU you need to decide whether it is worthwhile to purchase another used board and or CPU, unless you know someone with a similar system that you could try your CPU in to verify it is OK


Thank you very much! I will definitely try that!

if CPU is bad.. probably that would mean buy CPU and MOBO, at which point, I don't think it is worth it and rather stick with what I have and later buy something Ryzen or whatever Intel has out.

I followed a recommendation from a friend and bought a new Z97-A/USB3.1 from Amazon wih a $30 MiR.. cost of board would be about $120 after rebate. If board is bad, I am willing to keep new board. If CPU is bad I can return Mobo to Amazon and no harm done. Its the best I could do..since I don't know no one with an 1150 cpu I could try on the Z87 Hero I have to troubleshoot the CPU.

If you or anybody else has more suggestions on what I could try.. I am all ears.

UPDATE

OK so finally all ordered parts arrived.

Took the CPU out, checked the pins on the socket and all looked OK.

Put CPU back and only one RAM stick. Tried to boot the system but it was a no go. The LEDs for START and RESET were lit, but the system would not respond at all.

Tried with the new PSU and it would do the same.

Tried the same thing on the new Z97-A motherboard and it booted to UEFI fine.

So there you go. The nice Z87 ROG Hero is dead.

1) If the BIOS on the mobo is corrupt, would the system at least try to boot or having the board not responding is normal in that kind of situation?


2) I noticed that when the system booted, the CPU temps, would be as high as 65C while being on the BIOS at idle. Is this normal? The cooler is a Corsair H60 AIO, and the room has A/C set to 22C which would let me to believe that it should be lower. My old system with a 130w TDP Xeon @3680 idles at ~39C with an air cooler, so this worries me. Could someone with AIO experience confirm?

Thanks to all in advance.

selarom wrote:
1) If the BIOS on the mobo is corrupt, would the system at least try to boot or having the board not responding is normal in that kind of situation?


2) I noticed that when the system booted, the CPU temps, would be as high as 65C while being on the BIOS at idle. Is this normal? The cooler is a Corsair H60 AIO, and the room has A/C set to 22C which would let me to believe that it should be lower. My old system with a 130w TDP Xeon @3680 idles at ~39C with an air cooler, so this worries me. Could someone with AIO experience confirm?

Thanks to all in advance.


1) depends on the problem but that's normal. There's a reason we sometimes liken a bad BIOS flash to becoming a brick. However I don't think that's the problem here. It sounds more like something got damaged when you took everything apart. Or perhaps something developed a hairline crack when the system was moved.

2) seems high. I'd run a few tests and see what the temps do. It could be a bad heatsink interface or there could be something wrong with the aio. Make sure it's fully powered and not on a variable fan connection.
A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. On my desk, I have a work station…

xeromist wrote:
1) depends on the problem but that's normal. There's a reason we sometimes liken a bad BIOS flash to becoming a brick. However I don't think that's the problem here. It sounds more like something got damaged when you took everything apart. Or perhaps something developed a hairline crack when the system was moved.

2) seems high. I'd run a few tests and see what the temps do. It could be a bad heatsink interface or there could be something wrong with the aio. Make sure it's fully powered and not on a variable fan connection.


Will do! Thanks for the suggestion,

The thermal paste is a Noctua NT-H1. Got it because it was highly rated. I believe that H60 already had some years of use on it, it;s not brand new. How much on average do AIOs last?

xeromist
Moderator
It might not be the paste. Sometimes a mount could be loose or something else causing uneven pressure. The easiest way to tell is to lift the HS and see if the paste spread out evenly on the CPU. It doesn't have to reach the corners but it should cover most of the CPU.

Pumps are rated in hours of use rather than time of ownership. So on average a pump used infrequently will last longer than one powered on all the time. I've had a couple of corsair AIO's operating pretty much continuously for years but you might have one that falls on the low end.
A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. On my desk, I have a work station…

xeromist wrote:
It might not be the paste. Sometimes a mount could be loose or something else causing uneven pressure. The easiest way to tell is to lift the HS and see if the paste spread out evenly on the CPU. It doesn't have to reach the corners but it should cover most of the CPU.

Pumps are rated in hours of use rather than time of ownership. So on average a pump used infrequently will last longer than one powered on all the time. I've had a couple of corsair AIO's operating pretty much continuously for years but you might have one that falls on the low end.


Hello,

Sorry for delay in updating the thread, but it has taken a lof of time to get here. Ok, so there was good contact between coldplate of AIO and CPU... so I decided to ditch it and bought a Noctua NH-U14s and what a difference. It was big but not terribly so. With the new motherboard and cpu cooler I tested the system and it was running ok.. Not to mention that the Z97-A in its default config always had the CPU running at 4.4 ghz all the time.

So I went nuts (best way I can put it I guess) and bought the rockit88 delid tool and Conductunaut liquid metal and replaced the TIM on the CPU. I wanted to overclock and where I live is hot all year long and I can't turn the AC all the time, so I wanted to have as good cooling efficiency as possible. Also having a good air cooling, calms me from that (perhaps unnecessary) fear of sudden pump failure or a leak or something, given that I don't know how much the previous H60 was abused.

This is what I can share so far. Any comments? Are these good numbers for this overclock?

66975


66976


66977