I only could say your temperatures are great. Below 55C for full cover block are good temperatures.
I don't believe GPU could work 31C. That's mistake. Maybe if you play game with 200 fps and VSync on and GPU work with 20% power.
But full load no way below 45C. That's impossible, simply 25C water can't prevent Graphic processors to stay on 35C., 45c reach even before heat transfer start and from loop depend how much will rise, 5c or 15c. 31C full load, that's not possible.. Maybe on 0C , benchmark in Canadian wood.
Guys my recommendation for everyone is to stop to buy watercooling craps.
Leading company, and same as ROG in Motherboard section is Watercool.de Heatkiller.
They are best quality and finaly this year they made waterblocks for ASUS RTX2080Ti Strix.
I'm so sad because they have no block for GTX1080Ti Strix I would bought instantly, now.
But Poseidon and Strix Pascal have enough advantage over FE and I don't want to replace Poseidon for much lower clock only because Heatkiller IV block.
Up to Early Spring 2019 all my watercooling parts will be replace to Heatkiller-Black Ice Nemesis and Koolance fittings.
One by one. First radiators Black Ice Nemesis, than Heatkiller 150 Tube for D5, than fittings and at the end Heatkiller IV PRO Black Copper CPU Block.
Watercooling parts change last 3-4 years so much in negative direction and become show room parts to install once and later to be replaced with new for new platform. Only important things become RGB and damn hard tubings and quality of parts is lower and lower. No I don't want that, i like more old school parts, Swiftech, Koolance, Watercool de on first place and when you open CPU block for 12 months and clean with brush he is line new. Watercooling RIG don't need to have hard tubes to look amazing, don't need colorfull colant, don't need RGB. But that become priority for some brands.
And for end I will find Swiftech D5 MCP655 non PWM with speed controler from before 2009, they start to sell them 2006 and 2009 Lowara bought them, version before that are original made by Laing and because of them Switech MCP655 become so popular.
I don't believe GPU could work 31C. That's mistake. Maybe if you play game with 200 fps and VSync on and GPU work with 20% power.
But full load no way below 45C. That's impossible, simply 25C water can't prevent Graphic processors to stay on 35C., 45c reach even before heat transfer start and from loop depend how much will rise, 5c or 15c. 31C full load, that's not possible.. Maybe on 0C , benchmark in Canadian wood.
Guys my recommendation for everyone is to stop to buy watercooling craps.
Leading company, and same as ROG in Motherboard section is Watercool.de Heatkiller.
They are best quality and finaly this year they made waterblocks for ASUS RTX2080Ti Strix.
I'm so sad because they have no block for GTX1080Ti Strix I would bought instantly, now.
But Poseidon and Strix Pascal have enough advantage over FE and I don't want to replace Poseidon for much lower clock only because Heatkiller IV block.
Up to Early Spring 2019 all my watercooling parts will be replace to Heatkiller-Black Ice Nemesis and Koolance fittings.
One by one. First radiators Black Ice Nemesis, than Heatkiller 150 Tube for D5, than fittings and at the end Heatkiller IV PRO Black Copper CPU Block.
Watercooling parts change last 3-4 years so much in negative direction and become show room parts to install once and later to be replaced with new for new platform. Only important things become RGB and damn hard tubings and quality of parts is lower and lower. No I don't want that, i like more old school parts, Swiftech, Koolance, Watercool de on first place and when you open CPU block for 12 months and clean with brush he is line new. Watercooling RIG don't need to have hard tubes to look amazing, don't need colorfull colant, don't need RGB. But that become priority for some brands.
And for end I will find Swiftech D5 MCP655 non PWM with speed controler from before 2009, they start to sell them 2006 and 2009 Lowara bought them, version before that are original made by Laing and because of them Switech MCP655 become so popular.
CSN7 wrote:
You're always talking like you know it all across many forums. But did you even try it yourself? Sometimes you talk a lot that is just misleading or wrong or lack any proof.
I used an old little GPU-only block from EK (I think ek supremacy VGA is it's name) on the 2080Ti Strix and it got to 36°C on load. Eventhough it's micro channel section is a little too small for the new huge die size of the 2080Ti. I compensate that with the use of liquid metal as TIM. Liquid Metal on a GPU saves like 6-7°C. Tested on about 8 1080Ti's and 3 2080Ti's so far. But 55°C is just bad for watercooling and not worth the money you spend on the cooling components. And Below 45°C is very possible with normal ambient temperature.
Are you retard?
Guy show excellent temperatures on 2080Ti Strix and complain and you talk to me something.
Maybe I don't have Bitspower waterblock because I would bought Watercool Heatkiller IV but I know what is excellent watercooling temps and many people can't reach his temperatures with similar type of watercooling. Go to Hell!
What is possible below 45C. Watercooling temperatures depend of ambient temps as well if in house is 25-26C no way to load temperatures stay below 45C. Maybe if you live on Alaska, play games N3B Parka and sit in 5C ambient and you will have 40C under full load.
Nothing wrong with your temps when you consider that on air the fans dont even come on until 55C at default. Loop flow makes no difference, this point has been proven time and again. If you have a decent flow the loop isnt the problem. Do you have a flowmeter? Im not a fan of the swiftech. Tried them several times and all my samples either failed completely or didnt offer good flow. The ones that failed swiftech did a dance around honoring the warranty and said I ran them dry which was a blatant lie. Then they wouldnt return the two DOA pumps to me. Had to go through my CC company to get my money back.
As for a titan not passing 31C, I didnt see mention of a chiller in there. I have twin 1080Ti cards that idle at 32C with both bitspower and EK blocks and peak about 40C with heavy prolonged load. I have t 480 rads and 1 360 with dual D5 pumps in serial with 24C ambient, liquid temp never passes 31C as my fan controller regulates off of the liquid temp. My flowrate is 300L/hr Whats your liquid temp? Whats ambient temp? Whats your flowrate?
Cant help to get things lower without all the variables. While I think these temps can be reduced a little just too many variables unknown. Could be a flow problem. A little trash gets in there and it will plug up the blocks, it doesnt take very much.
Just FYI the only difference with a strix block is they have Strix logo on them.
As for a titan not passing 31C, I didnt see mention of a chiller in there. I have twin 1080Ti cards that idle at 32C with both bitspower and EK blocks and peak about 40C with heavy prolonged load. I have t 480 rads and 1 360 with dual D5 pumps in serial with 24C ambient, liquid temp never passes 31C as my fan controller regulates off of the liquid temp. My flowrate is 300L/hr Whats your liquid temp? Whats ambient temp? Whats your flowrate?
Cant help to get things lower without all the variables. While I think these temps can be reduced a little just too many variables unknown. Could be a flow problem. A little trash gets in there and it will plug up the blocks, it doesnt take very much.
Just FYI the only difference with a strix block is they have Strix logo on them.
First the cards are hard to come by and now no blocks. I grabbed one of these bitspower blocks and I’m not a big fan of the appearance and got it dirt cheap at micro center. Thing is the so called top dogs are late to the party. Bitspower, Thermaltake, Barrow and one I’ve never heard of Bykski all have them on the market. EK first said they will be out this month now a rep from Techpowerup confirmed he talked to them and they are “working on one”. The killer is for some unknown reason there are two chokes closer to the output end that are turned sideways. Other than that the layout of and components that would contact the block are identical. Heatkiller has no updates to anyone, their website has said available in January pretty much since it launched. These cards produce a tremendous amount of heat and will fill up a case quick, fast and in a hurry. I had my office window open with 20F weather and only one card benching. Had to open the glass on my case. Wife who was in bed 15 feet away ( I have a master suite that my office is supposed to be a sitting room that’s 12x14 feet off of the bedroom that’s 12x16) was complaining about it’s hot when she’s habitually always complaining about being cold. *For air cooling they really should go back to old school on these like the turbo edition that blows the heat OUT OF THE CASE!!*
I’ve got a loop to handle it but only one block that may be going back just because I can’t locate another. Hate to do it but if EK or HK doesn’t have something on the shelf soon I’ll probably go with a pair of Barrow blocks that look like EK knock offs. My biggest prerequisite is nickel plated. Not because of aesthetics but because nickel won’t dissolve into the fluid like copper and aluminum will which is the single biggest contributor to funk in the lines. I get flashbacks to the old days of homemade blocks and heater cores from cars bought at junkyards for rads. Fittings were bought at plumbing supply places. Every 3-4 months drain, fill with Coca Cola and let it circulate overnight. The funk that got flushed is just unreal. Green goop. Then refill run an hour, drain the refill again overnight run and drain again. Then refill and good for another 3-4 months. We tried all sorts of stuff from windex, antifreeze, water wetter etc. in the end nothing better than distilled water and making sure you didn’t mix dissimilar metals on fittings and rads. I still use Coca Cola to clean and flush rads out of the system. Comes out clean and shiny.*
I’ve got a loop to handle it but only one block that may be going back just because I can’t locate another. Hate to do it but if EK or HK doesn’t have something on the shelf soon I’ll probably go with a pair of Barrow blocks that look like EK knock offs. My biggest prerequisite is nickel plated. Not because of aesthetics but because nickel won’t dissolve into the fluid like copper and aluminum will which is the single biggest contributor to funk in the lines. I get flashbacks to the old days of homemade blocks and heater cores from cars bought at junkyards for rads. Fittings were bought at plumbing supply places. Every 3-4 months drain, fill with Coca Cola and let it circulate overnight. The funk that got flushed is just unreal. Green goop. Then refill run an hour, drain the refill again overnight run and drain again. Then refill and good for another 3-4 months. We tried all sorts of stuff from windex, antifreeze, water wetter etc. in the end nothing better than distilled water and making sure you didn’t mix dissimilar metals on fittings and rads. I still use Coca Cola to clean and flush rads out of the system. Comes out clean and shiny.*
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