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New Member; First build. Tips appreciated.

Colejc
Level 7
Hey Everybody 🙂

My names Cole,
Looking to build a computer for gaming/Photoshop drawing/video editing.
Here is a list of the parts ive scoped out and am intrested in.. i would appreciate tips and ideas of better builds/components
The sites im currently using as im in canada and using Canadian $ are newegg and amazon.ca
I borrowed this template from another user.
thanks 🙂 trying to keep a budget of under 3000$- monitor is seperate to that.
CPU, BOARD and MEMORY:

Motherboard:ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code LGA1151 DDR4 DP HDMI M.2 Z270 ATX Motherboard with onboard AC Wifi and USB 3.1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01NGTRXOO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494540407&sr=8-1π=AC_SX236_SY34...

CPU Processor:Intel BX80677I77700K 7th Gen Core Desktop Processor i7-7700K
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01MXSI216/ref=ox_sc_act_image_8?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

Memory:
G.SKILL F4-3000C16D-16GTZR Trident Z RGB Series 16GB, 288-Pin SDRAM DDR4-3000Mhz (PC4 24000) Desktop Memory
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B06WP4L3D7/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

GRAPHICS PROCESSOR:

GPU Processor ]EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 HYBRID GAMING, 8GB GDDR5, LED, All-In-One Water-cooling with 10CM FAN, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC) Graphics Card 08G-P4-6178-KR https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01MA0YHNJ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_11?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1


DRIVES & STORAGE:
Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E500B/AM)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00OBRE5UE/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1K2SUXU652HJB&psc=1
Seagate BarraCuda 2TB 3.5-Inch SATA III 6 Gb/s Internal Hard Drive (ST2000DM006)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01IEKG402/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

adapter bracket;for HD
2.5" SSD HDD To 3.5" Mounting Adapter Bracket Dock Hard Drive Holder For PC
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00OCBB56Q/ref=ox_sc_act_image_12?smid=A80VRDZAW5XX7&psc=1




PERIPHERAL DEVICES:

Monitor 1: None/suggestions reccomended
Monitor 2.
Mic: none/suggestions welcome
Web Camera: none/ suggestions welcome

POWER SUPPLY & CASE:

Power Supply:EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G2, 80+ GOLD 1000W, Fully Modular, 10 Year Warranty, Includes FREE Power On Self Tester Power Supply 120-G2-1000-XR
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00CGYCNG2/ref=ox_sc_act_image_5?smid=AV2NFXD9LK2MO&psc=1

CPU Case: none/reccomendations welcome

COOLING & HARDWARE:

CPU Cooler: none/ recommendations welcome(

(Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler CW-9060025-WW, Black)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B019EXSSBG/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2ECJ2YW5HZ3XYARHWV...



Fans: none/recommendations welcome
Thermal Paste: none/reccomendations welcome

cables;
hdmi;AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet (Latest Standard)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B014I8SSD0/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1#immersive-v...

sata;
Monoprice 108784 18-Inch SATA 6Gbps Cable with Locking Latch, Red
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B009GUXWDM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_5?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

usb;
StarTech.com USB 3.0-Inch to 2.5-Inch SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable with UASP-SATA Converter for SSD/HDD (USB3S2SAT3CB
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00HJZJI84/ref=ox_sc_act_image_8?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

Mousepad; SteelSeries QcK Gaming Mouse Pad (Black
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B000UEZ36W/ref=ox_sc_act_image_9?smid=AUKMUJ0OAA6F2&psc=1

anti static; Rosewill ESD Anti-Static Wrist Strap Components RTK-002, Black/Yellow
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B004N8ZQKY/ref=ox_sc_act_image_13?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1












Edited with suggestions**
6,371 Views
15 REPLIES 15

topyoyoguybest wrote:
Code mem QVL:*http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1151/MAXIMUS_IX_FORMULA/MAXIMUS-IX-CODE_MAXIMUS-IX-FORMULA_Me...

If i understand right anything over 2100 wont work?

Colejc wrote:
If i understand right anything over 2100 wont work?

The internal memory controllers (iMCs) in your i7-7700K are Intel-rated to support up to (JEDEC standard) DDR4-2133 and DDR4-2400. Up to two channels of up to two DIMMs each (up to 4 DIMMs total). Up to 64GB maximum.

Running memory faster than DDR4-2400 is technically overclocking, even if the DDR4 is sold as a faster-rated bin with a sort of "plug and play" XMP profile. There are never any guarantees, ever, with overspec/overclock operation. Your CPU part might happen to have lemon iMCs which just barely passed Intel's minimum memory spec (though if it failed to do so then it would've been a reject before it left Intel's plant). Or it might happen to have epic iMCs which could run any sort of extreme memory you could afford to throw at them ("the skylake's the limit"). It's a statistical bell-curve sort of thing, the vast majority of CPU parts will be "average" or close to average one way or another, only a tiny few will perform at the extremes.

Like all high-end ASUS tech, Maximus IX mobos are robustly overengineered and overkill. They circumvent/augment boring Intel reference specs, usually by embedding far more and far better hardware than required (or even recommended) by Intel. The Z270 M9C advertises (overclocked) support for DDR4-2400 up to DDR4-4133. You may not be able to run at the highest end (DDR4-4133), or you may be able to run even higher (DDR4-4266 and beyond), it all depends on the unique quirks and qualities built into your individual CPU part. ASUS has probably balanced their advertised specs between "high confidence" in their (exhaustive, reproducible, observed) test results and "impossible targets" set by their marketing teams (and competing Z270 manufacturers).

I haven't followed Z270 too closely, but (from what I've read) it looks like - in the vast majority of cases - you can reasonably expect a DDR4-3300 kit to "just work" at the DDR4-3300 performance you paid for. Anything faster looks somewhat more hit-or-miss.

DDR4 theoretically supports densities up to 512GB per DIMM, allowing 4 DIMMs to address 2048GB (2TB) of physical RAM.
Consumer DDR4 is currently available with up to 16GB per DIMM. But 32GB and 64GB DIMMs are probably going to appear in coming years. If it follows the pattern set by every other ROG mobo, the M9C will receive firmware (BIOS) updates which will allow these memory capacities to be addressed, even though they technically exceed Intel's CPU spec.

You'd gain maximum performance and minimum latency from a pair of single-sided (SS) DIMMs, one per channel.
Populating all four DIMM slots, using double-sided (DS) DIMMs, or using high capacity DIMMs will each place more load (and each introduce more latencies, lower overclocking limits, and greater stability issues) onto the iMCs in your CPU.

The best-performing and best-overclocking (and most popular, most in demand, most expensive) consumer DDR4 at this time uses Samsung K4A8G085WB chips (8Gb B-die DDR4 SDRAM). They provide 8GB per SS DIMM or 16GB per DS DIMM, they're JEDEC-rated for DDR4-2133-15-15-15 and DDR4-2400-17-17-17, they're nominally rated as 1.20V Industrial grade (-40℃~95℃) parts. DDR4 manufacturers (like G.Skill, Corsair, etc) use these chips, carefully binned and matched and overclocked at higher frequencies and tighter timings, on their extreme-performance DDR4 kits - because these chips can tolerate extreme voltages/temps with less de-rating and fewer errors, thus they can consistently outperform other "Samsung B-Die" offerings at maximal overclock.

(Note that Samsung also offers Enterprise DDR4 chips which are JEDEC-rated for DDR4-2666-19-19-19, in capacities up to 128GB per RDIMM. And they offer Milspec DDR4 chips which are hardened to withstand utterly crazy operating parameters. These are not for consumers. Samsung also has a number of DDR4 chips in the "Under Development" or "Customer Sample" phases which will enter "Mass Production" soon enough. And Hynix DDR4 always looks like it could leapfrog ahead again. Though Micron/Crucial is so far behind that they've basically abandoned the DDR4 race while they focus on other things.)
"All opinions are not equal. Some are a very great deal more robust, sophisticated and well supported in logic and argument than others." - Douglas Adams

[/Korth]

Colejc wrote:
Cheers ive made the switch! I shouldnt have to change anything else because of that if im correct? The ram still works?


Yes, the memory will work fine. 🙂

Nate152
Moderator
One of the top rated ram for your motherboard is G.Skill Trident Z.

It's best to go by the ram manufacturers QVL list.

Chino
Level 15

Korth
Level 14
Oh hey ... since you've itemized your build/purchase order in fine detail.

Don't forget a thermal interface material (TIM).

Your CPU cooler will likely come with some TIM. One application. Of some "house brand" stuff which does work but ain't all that great. Let's face it: companies like Corsair, Zalman, Noctua, etc make (or just sell) a wide variety of PC gear, including mechanical items like CPU coolers, but they're not in the business of researching and engineering premium TIMs.

A few coolers don't provide any TIM. Most do, but it's best to be certain you've got all the critical parts before you start building. The TIM is critical, if you install your CPU and cooler without it then within minutes of booting up you'll end up with shutdowns/crashes/throttling (at best) or cooked/damaged/dead CPU (at worst).

Korth wrote:
Gelid GC Extreme is low-viscosity (it's thin and runny), best used when mating surfaces are interlocking or have very tight contact tolerances. It cooks/dries out faster and sometimes need reapplication (on very hot parts) every few months. It has excellent performance and seems to have the best (or "least worst") performance in subzero overclocking.


Prolimatech PK-2 is mid-viscosity (sort of average), best overall TIM for most parts in my opinion. It adheres really well and can last many months or a few years before dryout. It also has excellent performance. PK-3 is supposedly even better (never tried it because my big jar of PK-2 is still half-full, lol).


Arctic Silver 5 is mid-/high-viscosity (kinda thick and pasty), it's a better choice on large-gap, planar, or slightly convex/concave surfaces (like LGA2011-3 processors) because it stays where you put it and maintains great performance pretty much forever (the stuff takes years to cook off). It's also really cheap. I sometimes even use it as a thermally-conductive glue, lol.


IC Diamond contains abrasive microparticles which promote metal corrosion and - after repeated applications - can actually scratch off part markings. Many people swear by it, I've never used it.


Phobya He-Grease and Tuniq TX-4 are about as good (some say better) than PK-3 or AS5, but again I've never tried them.


The reality is that any premium TIM will outperform any cheap TIM and the actual measurable differences are nearly insignificant among top performers - each brand has passionate diehards and vehement haters, I suspect conflicting benchmark results usually have more to do with variances in application method or quirky heat sources than with substantially differing TIM characteristics - my personal experience is that the main difference between TIMs is their viscosity/adhesion parameters, no single TIM can be absolutely perfect for every possible application because each is better suited for a different kind of interface geometry.


You can be assured that any properly-applied premium TIM product will outperform that cheap pink goop Asus put into your machine.


https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?61389-5960x-Idle-OC-temps
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?90411-one-of-the-fan-blades-broke-one-the-fan-on-a-asus-gt...

I would use Arctic Silver 5 on an LGA1151 part. A little tube (about half dozen applications) usually costs about $10-15.

Warm it up (immerse sealed tube in warm water). Wear disposable gloves (fingerprint oils are bad!) and use ArtiClean or non-perfumed acetone or anhydrous isopropyl alcohol to ensure both surfaces are clean (unless you just peeled off a protector and there's zero residue on the part). Apply TIM with "X" or "pea" or "rice grain" pattern. (I actually smear a glob onto a razor blade then scrape thinly across the surface, both times.)

The most common problem is overapplication, too much TIM. Remember that the TIM is thousands of times more efficient as a thermal conductor when compared to air filling the gap, but it's thousands of times less efficient when compared to the metals used in your CPU and block. Get full coverage across both parts, no gaps no voids, press (and screw) them securely into place to squeeze out bubbles, less is more.

And you'll have to wait out some "cure time" while the TIM flows and hardens and vitrifies and affixes itself into place. For Arctic Silver 5 this takes about 200 hours (whether computer is powered on or not) until the TIM reaches full thermal conductivity.
"All opinions are not equal. Some are a very great deal more robust, sophisticated and well supported in logic and argument than others." - Douglas Adams

[/Korth]