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Advice needed on my first custom water cooling loop for my current Rampage IV Extreme

MHzTweaaker
Level 8
After my weekend overheating frightmare with my Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme I am in the planning stages of a custom CPU and/or motherboard water loop.

I have taken some measurements and seen pictures of others work. I believe that with dremel in hand a Black Ice GT Stealth 360 X-Flow Radiator will fit up top of my Corsair 600T case. My plan is to cut both the metal mesh and into the top plastic toward the front of the case. I plan use my existing corsair high static pressure fans and but another one to make 3. I selected this RAD because I am concerned about the thickness around the memory modules and dual CPU power plugs. I have the Thermaltake RAD pushed off toward the primary access panel and the fans mounted underneath pushing upward so the RAD is not currently centered. It has been a concern of mine about the two layers of metal mesh between the RAD and the outside of the case, this would eliminate one of those by installing a triple fan RAD and cutting out the inner mesh and plastic to fit the RAD.

I have separate DVD and BluRay burners in the 5-1/4 bays and will likely need to move them down to install a FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Dual Bay Blood Red Helix Reservoir in the top 2 bays. I could come out one side of the cross flow RAD and dump into the reservoir and then down to the pump and back up to the CPU Block and then over to the back of the case and into the opposite side of the RAD and the process starts again.

Here is a rough list of parts. I would like to use 5/8 ID and ¾ OD tubing for maximum flow and either chrome, black or red compression fittings throughout the loop.
Please critique this and offer advice on things I could tweak or substitute.

thanks
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Pump: I love me some bling but it has got to perform
Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Pump Mod Kit + Mod Top V2 w/ Swiftech PWM Pump Installed
Modded with red cable sleeve and heat shrink tubing.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14767/ex-pmp-172/Bitspower_D5_MCP655_Pump_Mod_Kit_Mod_Top_V2_w_Swi...

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Reservoir: would also like a fill port leading into the bay under the top mesh panel of the 600T
FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Dual Bay Reservoir - Blood Red Helix
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17787/ex-res-468/FrozenQ_Liquid_Fusion_Dual_Bay_Reservoir_-_Blood_...
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Radiator: If there is a better slim RAD, please let me know
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5069/ex-rad-93/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_360_X-Flow_Radiator_-_Black.ht...
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CPU Block: Performance is king right?
Koolance CPU-380I Intel Liquid Cooling CPU Block
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17580/ex-blc-1376/Koolance_CPU-380I_Intel_Liquid_Cooling_CPU_Block...
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Fluid: Deionized Water (UV RED)
PrimoChill Base Intensified™ - High Purity Deionized Water (32 oz.) - UV Red (PC-BASE32-URD)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16580/ex-liq-329/PrimoChill_Base_Intensified_-_High_Purity_Deioniz...

Tubing:
Tygon 2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing - 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) - Clear (ACG00038)

Also a Silver killcoils
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_S...

Fittings:
I plan to use 45-Degree fittings in places like the CPU Block, RAD input at the back of the case and any place where they might help keep the tubing in a straight line. I really do not want tubing twisting all over the place inside the case. I want nice straight clean lines following the lines of the case.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12090/ex-tub-742/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Dual_Rotary_45-Degree_C...
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It looks like the 655 pump would mount at the bottom of the 600T. I do not know which port is the return but it looks like I would need a 90degree fitting to keep my hose lines parallel to the drive cages.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10755/ex-tub-679/Bitspower_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_12_ID_x_34_...
ASUS Rampage V Extreme (1401 BIOS) | Core i7-5930K @ 4.375GHz | Corsair 600T | G.Skill Ripjaws 32GB (4x8GB) 2666MHz | Phanteks PH-TC14PE_RD | GELID GC-Extreme TIM | 4x Samsung 850 EVOs RAID 0 | eVGA SuperNova P2 1200 | Sony Blu-ray Burner | 2 Hitachi 4TB HDD's| eVGA 980FTW + 2 ASUS 27" LED + Acer 32"4K | ASUS Xonar Essence STX | Crown XTi 4000 1200w/p/ch Amp JBL JRX125 speakers | Klipsch RW-12d Sub | Win 8.1 Pro MCE | Logitech G910 Back-lit Mechanical | Logitech G700s
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4 REPLIES 4

Zka17
Level 16
The problem with those Black Ice radiators is that they have very high fin density... which means that you need high static pressure fans to be able to push air through the radiator - which means that you will have very high noise levels...

I would try this one, see if it fits in your case: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15665/ex-rad-374/Alphacool_NexXxoS_ST30_Full_Copper_Slim_Profile_T...

For the coolant, I would not pay so much... just get simply distilled water from any grocery store... - with the silver coil will be just fine! I also don't like the colorants, just get colored tubes...

Tygon tubing is good, but it will became cloudy after a time... try the Primochill Advanced LRT ones... - as for the size of tubing, I like the 3/8" ID ones, larger ID won't give you higher flow (the flow restriction happens in the waterblocks anyway)

Zka17 wrote:
The problem with those Black Ice radiators is that they have very high fin density... which means that you need high static pressure fans to be able to push air through the radiator - which means that you will have very high noise levels...

I would try this one, see if it fits in your case: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15665/ex-rad-374/Alphacool_NexXxoS_ST30_Full_Copper_Slim_Profile_T...

For the coolant, I would not pay so much... just get simply distilled water from any grocery store... - with the silver coil will be just fine! I also don't like the colorants, just get colored tubes...

Tygon tubing is good, but it will became cloudy after a time... try the Primochill Advanced LRT ones... - as for the size of tubing, I like the 3/8" ID ones, larger ID won't give you higher flow (the flow restriction happens in the waterblocks anyway)


Ok... I will adjust the build for Alphacool RAD

I know there are many opinions on coolant types. I was reading someones opinion on the colored tubes and that they actually preferred the look of colored fluid flowing through clear tubes. I suppose it is subjective.

I guess I have also heard some complain that the colored fluid clogs water blocks and RADs over time.

I also suppose it is really easy for the person selling their "New and Improved" colored coolant to tell me how much more awesome it is and how buying it will make me a better person and save the rainforests and dolphins.

OK, other than cost are the disadvantages to going with larger (5/8") tubing vs. the 3/8" you like?

I don't mind the colored tubing or the distilled water. It sounds simple. Simple is fine with me. If I need to drain this thing every year or so anyway then I would rather dump $1 a gallon water down the crapper than colored coolant. thanks sounds like a no brainer.

I was also thinking I need to plan a drain plug and valve near the bottom of the case where the pump is located right?

Any other tweaks or reading material would be awesome.

thanks to all who respond.
ASUS Rampage V Extreme (1401 BIOS) | Core i7-5930K @ 4.375GHz | Corsair 600T | G.Skill Ripjaws 32GB (4x8GB) 2666MHz | Phanteks PH-TC14PE_RD | GELID GC-Extreme TIM | 4x Samsung 850 EVOs RAID 0 | eVGA SuperNova P2 1200 | Sony Blu-ray Burner | 2 Hitachi 4TB HDD's| eVGA 980FTW + 2 ASUS 27" LED + Acer 32"4K | ASUS Xonar Essence STX | Crown XTi 4000 1200w/p/ch Amp JBL JRX125 speakers | Klipsch RW-12d Sub | Win 8.1 Pro MCE | Logitech G910 Back-lit Mechanical | Logitech G700s

Zka17
Level 16
Functionally there is no benefit of using higher diameter tubing... that's what I tried to say... - if you like better the bigger diameter, that's fine too... 🙂

A drainport is very useful in WC'd systems! usually you place those at the lowest point of your loop...

Arne_Saknussemm
Level 40
This is a good report from EK that basically says that adding anything to deionised water is going to add ions to the water and create the potential that corrosion needs to start.

If you are worried about algal growth and don't want to maintain much then a silver kill coil would be the way to go in deionized water.

I run deionized water only and change it every 2 or 3 months. And don't have algae or appreciable corrosion anywhere.

If you set up your loop with a well placed drain port (maybe two, one at lowest point one at highest) changing the water will be childs play and a 15 minute job.