I'll try to make this as short as possible, I'm pretty sure I'm having an issue with my board, something in its bios, boot voltages or the board itself that is just not working with my setup.
I've found 2 posts that are familiar with my issue, which is:
- The Motherboard refused to turn on after the PC goes to sleep.
- Doesn't turn on when a bios change that requires a hard reset happens "Disabling Hyper-threading for example or enabling XMP and many other options",
- Makes a click sound when I press the turn on power button but doesn't boot unless I disconnect some of the peripherals and then press the power button for longer than needed "i.e. a Tap doesn't turn it on, a long press "1.5-2 seconds is needed".
- The most success I had with turning it on is when I disconnected the Audio Interface "GoXLR Mini", then it boots with a long press. However, even with the Audio interface disconnected, it still doesn't boot back from sleep or a bios change, I would have to manually Boot it with a long press again.
My full setup :
PC: Rog Strix Z790-I, 13700K, EK Nucleus 240 AIO, 7200CL34 G.Skill, Rog Strix 4090 OC Edition, Thermaltake SFX 1000W ATX 3.0, Asus Prime AP201 Case.
Peripherals: Pulsar Xlite mini, Steelseries Pro TKL, LG 27' 2k IPS Monitor, GoXLR Mini Audio Interface. Windows 11 pro Latest Build.
Things I've tried:
- Bios & all other software available on the support website are used to update the system.
- I've tried multiple combinations of USB ports to see if one of them was the issue.
- Double checked my installation, cables are well seated, nothing is bent too hard or squeezed in a place that it shouldn't be at.
- After being able to turn XMP, I did a 2 hour cinebench R23 test, and a memtest68 and they both passed without an issue.
I Took the PC back to the retailer for testing and it booted normally there "that's when I realized they use generic Microsoft non RGB mouse and keyboard only, I even enabled XMP for the first time there, just to see if it will boot back and it did with no problem. The technician there was able to boot it normally every time he pressed the on button, I wasn't, even there. As it turns out, he was still kinda long pressing the Power On button which I don't mind doing but its just weird since I've had several builds before that, all of them with Asus boards and non of them needed that long of an ON press to boot.
Anyways when I went back home, I plugged my stuff back in and it refused to boot again, that's when I started with disconnecting the Audio Interface and I was able to boot it. Do any of the boot voltages responsible for these kinds of stuff? I'm assuming the board is not giving enough juice for one of the components or something similar?
Mind you, I can still have a perfect boot with everything connected including the Audio Interface only if I turn off the power supply and clear CMOS. Turning the power supply off and back on alone doesn't work. The PC in general works fine other than that! Games run smoothly without any problems, everything else is good. The only problem is that every time I shut the PC down now I have to disconnect my Audio Interface to make sure that it can boot again the next day. Having sleep enabled is a no-no since a couple more times and it will corrupt the OS.
Please let me know if you have any thoughts, I'm genuinely out of ideas!
Solved! Go to Solution.
Unfortunately by the time I was done deciding on all of the components, the thermaltake PSU was the only viable option for my build “so i thought”. The Loki is not available in my country, not a single sfx is actually. A couple of random shops were offering that model on Amazon US at an extremely ridiculous price.
however, since the tough atx 3.0 1000w actually did end up fitting in the ap201 without the cables being pressured by the absurd behemoth of a GPU I ended going with it. It’s available, has a 1 year warranty from the retailer aside from Asus’s warranty and it ended up actually around $250 too.
i might go for the loki once it becomes available where I live. Other than that i’m not risking another month or two of troubleshooting.
Here is the solution that worked for me.
Connect your PC directly to a mains supply.
Avoid multi power sockets and /or other devices share the same socket. It is likely the very same reason that your pc worked flawlessly in the repair shop and stopped working back to your home.
Let me know when you try it.
Have a nice day!
Hope this will iron out your issue too!
This is not a solution given by Nate.
I have exactly the same problem with a brand new motherboard with different PSU and no bleeping at all.
It's a design fault so go back to the lab and design it to work as it should.
I have lots of work to do with deadlines approaching in my music studio and I have to deal with motherboard's issues.
I thought it was a faulty motherboard but here a pattern is emerging and I don't know if a replacement will iron out the issue.
Mine doesn't boot at all with no usb device attached and a long press of the on button.
Thanks a lot Asus!
Thanks for replying so soon.
My motherboard is a brand new ROG Strix Z790 F Gaming WiFi.
My problem was the same as this and other posts but I FOUND THE SOLUTION.
Pass it to your R&D Dept and to your users mentioning the same no booting problem.
After reading CAREFULLY the related posts I configured it was a voltage problem.
Maybe by design needs you were forced to use smaller allowances to the voltage fluctuations coming to the motherboard.
So I tried the obvious.
I CONNECTED THE CABLE OF MY PC DIRECTLY TO A FREE MAINS SUPPLY. AVOID THE CONNECTION THROUGH MULTI POWER SOCKETS SHARING WITH OTHER DEVICE!!!!!
That cured the problem IMMEDIATELY.
Technically you are not to blame but in real life situations you have a faulty design. I had two older music PCs with Asus motherboards for years connected in the very same multi powered socket with no problem whatsoever. It was only this time with the aforementioned motherboard that things gone wrong.
You can thank me later!
P.S. My PhD in Semiconductor Physics didn't help me on this one but critical thinking on this issue when I had the data from the related posts did. YOU should have done it by now after reading all these posts and not publishing irrelevant "solutions" blaming the cables and the PSUs...