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No picture (is it even booting correctly?) - Q-LED yellow on Hive - Z790-I

Level 8


I just finished putting all the parts together on my new build, but I get no picture on the monitor 😞 Here's the relevant parts:

  • NR200P
  • Z790-I
  • 13600K
  • Noctua NH-C14S
  • Corsair Vengeance 32GB (2x16GB) / 5600MHz / DDR5 / CL36 / CMK32GX5M2B5600C36
  • Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB

I will be using the onboard graphics, so the monitor in plugged in to the motherboard's HDMI. When powering on, all fans start spinning, but there is no picture, no beeping or anything. I connected the Hive thing to check the Q-LED indicators and the second light, the yellow LED, is on which indicates DRAM error.

What I have done:

  • Taken everything apart (all the power cables, CPU, memory, SSD) and put it all back together
  • Used the BIOS flashback functionality on the Hive, the blue button kept blinking for a couple of minutes and then stopped, which apparently indicates success. So the BIOS should now be 1402.
  • Tried all combinations of the RAM sticks in the RAM slots (both, both flipped, just one and then the other in each of the slots)

But still the same black screen.

One stupid thing that hopefully does not affect this but you never know: I got the SSD with heatsink, which I discovered is not physically compatible with the the M.2_1 socket since that one already has a heatsink. So I plugged the SSD into the lower M.2_2 slot.

Any ideas on what to do? I will probably send back the RAM to the retailer and get a replacement kit which hopefully will solve my problem, but I have a feeling that it's not the solution...


Customer Service Agent

Hello, @adamohman 

Based on the situation you've described, we recommend that you refer to [Motherboard] Troubleshooting - No Power/No Boot/No Display especially the "Test with minimal components, isolating the possible cause" section by removing all external devices and confirming once more. 
This includes removing the SSD, installing a single RAM module in the DIMM_A slot, and clearing CMOS if needed.
Please start by attempting to successfully access the BIOS, and then proceed to install other hardware.
If there is an inoperable part of the process, please inform me of the specific issue or provide a comprehensive video of the entire operation to help us better understand your building and the problem scenario.

Thank you.

Hi @Jiaszzz_ROG!

I did the "Test with minimal components..." and still no luck, but after the third disassembly and reassembly, the display started working when having only one stick of RAM in the first RAM slot, so I could get into BIOS. Both sticks of RAM passed Memtest when in the first slot. So I have contacted the place where I bought the components and will RMA the motherboard.

Same here

Level 11

Let's take it step by step. Your CPU does have onboard graphics - that's good. Please check if monitor has been swithced to HDMI input (I have same board and same case - that was my reason for no image out when I tested HDMI - I normally use Display Port from a separate graphics card). Also try HDMI to a TV (if you do have one with HDMI input - also make sure TV is set to HDMI input by buttons or by a remote).

If you manage to get video output -read on as more relevant info is below.

There will be no beeps (buzzers removed from motherboards for some time now, and no way to connect one to this MB for diagnostics).


Next - the difficult one. Memory _is_ the likely culprit. You've already re-flashed the BIOS (hopefully successfully) so BIOS is fully reset. The 5600-36 you have is likely to be based on Samsung chips (the cheaper version), among the most difficult ones to run for DDR5. The board by default sets it to 4800 MT/s but if the memory reports itself as 5600 the Z790I could be setting it by default to 5600 which could cause instability. The solution here is to buy or borrow from a friend one (or two ) memory modules known to be based on Hynix chips. Common examples include DDR5 rated as 6000-30, 7200-34.  PC _should_ start with this memory and boot to BIOS. After that check memory stability using either the Memtest built into BIOS (thank you Asus for adding this - give a bonus to whoever made effort and got all corporate approvals to do this), or any windows software such as TestMem5. 

Further - also on memory. Your board and your CPU can handle memory speeds to ~7200 easy, and to 7600-8000 with minor tweaking (you'd need to spend several evenings tuning it if you are into PC builds). That gives you noticeably better performance, in gaming FPS. If you only use this new PC to browse web - don't bother with tuning. Thus buying a faster memory as 7200 or 7600 or 8000 (which used to cost >$400 and now <150) would be a useful thing - when you are ready.


Other odd possibilities to check - if the CPU 8-pin power cable from power supply is not plugegd in to the corner next to the CPU, the board will not start.

Level 8

Hi @1TM1TM !

Thanks for your reply. After the third reassembly I got video out when using one stick of RAM, so the monitor settings and HDMI cable and so on is ok.

About the RAM compatibility, I checked before purchase that CMK32GX5M2B5600C36 is on the list of supported memory (ROG STRIX Z790-I GAMING WIFI | Gaming motherboards|ROG - Republic of Gamers|ROG Global (, but I did not know that it could be problematic anyway. I saw in the BIOS that the RAM speed was set to 4800 MT/s and I thought that changing that to 5600 would not make things better, but do you mean that it might have? I mean, if I would have one RAM stick, changed to 5600 in BIOS, would it keep the setting when installing the second stick of RAM and would that have improved stability? Hm, unfortunate that I did not try that then 🙂 

This PC will not be used for anything heavy, and while reading up on RAM speed 5600 seemed to be a sweet spot perf/money.

Also thanks for the tip about the 8-pin power cable, I did check that.

Anyway, I have RMA'd the motherboard. Hopefully they will find that something was faulty and I will get a new one. Otherwise I'll be back in this thread for more support!

Hi, it indeed will keep the 4800 setting - you are correct. 

It seems the second stick cannot be seen by the board - this can be caused either by a defect in MB itself (does happen) or by a defect in the CPU socket clamp so not all contacts are making the connection.

You did the right thing RMAing the board - as it would address both of the above possibilities. Yes, 5600 should be sufficient for most tasks. Both your CPU and this board will easily support it; this board goes to 7600 if the memory allows and if the CPU from this particular batch has good sand/silicon for the memory controller (you may have heard a term "silicon lottery").

Once you get the replacement MB, as usual, be careful inserting the CPU and closing the clamp (current flat design is more touchy than when CPUs had pins - now the boards have tiny metal leafs which are fairly easily damaged).

Customer Service Agent

Hello, @adamohman 

Thank you for your response.
Since you have already submitted it for repair, we recommend that you wait for the repair center's subsequent diagnosis or further assistance.
If you encounter any difficulties or concerns, please feel free to send me a private message with detailed context at any time.

Thank you.

Level 8

Update: I got a replacement motherboard, and everything works great now!

Had to update BIOS to get it to boot, using HIVE made that easy. For the Windows 11 Home Retail from USB installation, I got stuck since network connectivity apparently is required and neither LAN nor wifi worked out of the box. I found a LAN-to-USB-C dongle that saved me, saw later that you can load LAN drivers in the disk partitioning step, but still a bit of a hassle that it doesn't work out of the box.

I'm really thankful that the RMA went smoothly, and for the support of this forum. Not that any of the troubleshooting suggestions helped my specific situation, but it was an emotional support at least 😉

For me the error is that you had flashed the Bios with the PC off and this is a big mistake, I noticed that it does not flash bios well. In fact, re-updating the Bios in Bios is the most correct way to do it.
However, if you update the Bios before turning on after having built it you may have these video problems with turning on the screen. And, also compatibility with hard drives with SATA connection.
You have to unplug everything and only put in an M2, then do not connect the screen via the internal graphics card but via PCIe. Then you have to update the bios in the bios, because you will be able to come to the bios.
And, then you have to remove the cables from the external PCIe graphics card and then you will have the video from the internal graphics card, then after setting to activate to allocate your internal graphics card in memory.

Indeed there is no connection possible when the motherboard of this generation is new, once installed Windows bypasses the connection, by installing the drivers afterward everything is better for the Bios.

Do not activate the PCM for the heirs in the bios, this disables the video in the integrated graphics card.