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ROG Centurion 7.1 wire repair and tuning (no sound left ear)

Level 8
Hello! So, I decided to write a mini-guide.

I have two headphones:
- Sennheiser - only for Hi-Fi music (FLAC), they work through the Asus Xonar Essence STX II;
- Asus Centurion 7.1 - for games only, because the quality of the DAC for stereo mode is slightly inferior to the Xonar, but 7.1. works well, there is a microphone and the docking station is quite convenient.

There are only three complaints about the build quality of the Centurion 7.1:
- the sleeve on which the cup rotates breaks;
- overheating of the sound chip;
- sound failure in the left cup.

Accordingly, the bushing can be repaired by making a new one using 3D printing or by screwing the cup tightly with screws.

Overheating of the sound chip is solved by disassembling the station and gluing a suitable radiator on it. Because there is not enough space, then to exclude a possible short circuit, you need to bite off the protruding contacts on the top board a little.


The failure of the sound in the left cup is the reason for the breakage of one of the wires at the place of the wire termination in the safety sleeve, presumably by too strong a robot force on the machine. In this guide, we will talk about replacing the wire, tk. ironing for the second time about $ 200 for new headphones seems unreasonable to me, if you have a soldering iron and your hands grow from where you need to, ahah)) In general, the store bought the thinnest and most flexible HDMI cable, three types of heat shrink tubes for different diameters, and aliexpress a new sheath has been ordered. First, all the wires were sealed off one by one and the tester rang out all the wires to restore the connection diagram, then the safety sleeve was cut along and its inner diameter was modified with a file for a new cord (it turned out to be 1.5 times larger in diameter).
Soldering new wires, I recommend starting with the manufacture of a splitter from wire #20, because comes from the connector one, and is soldered to 4 points.
Then wire 12, soldering everything on this line, then wire 18, soldering all the points of this line, and finally from wire 20 in the microphone connection line.
Enjoy! ))

Level 7
Hi, thank you for taking the time to write this and adding the pictures.
I just saved my Centurions with the same issue thanks to you.
I re-used the original wire and re-soldered all strands by colour to make it easier for myself, just lost 10cm of length, but not an issue with my setup.
A dab of superglue and a few heatshrinks on the cup sleeve to hold it in place and it worked a treat.
I already did a similar job once, when extending the joystick-throttle wire for my T-Flight Hotas, so I knew how difficult an HDMI can be.
However, I am especially grateful for the heatsink solution for the base unit!
I fiddled around with the software and drivers for weeks, scratching my head why it kept resetting, seemingly at random.
I just slapped one on, and will test it out shortly.

first and foremost thanks for the detailed pictures and advice Nomad1977.does anyone have a high res image of the original points where the colour cable goes.stupidly desoldered wires to fix but forgot to take photo :o,mainly the wires that come from the other earpiece


Level 9
Congratulations and thank you for taking the time.

Idem to what you experienced: my plastic piece whose function is to hold & rotate the right cup broke.
I guess when fixing it I wasn't careful because my mic isn't working any longer.
I bumped into your material when googling a wire diagram before opening & testing.

Thanks for the effort, very useful material!

hola como estas ....tengo un problema con el cable... me podrÃ*as ayudar y recomendar que cable hdmi comprar ya que me quedo corto !! saludos desde Argentina y gracias .!

Level 7

hello. good article, it helped a lot))) there is one nuance - you do not have some wires on the circuit (13,15,19), tell me - where to solder them???