cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

Asus Strix X470-F Gaming owners thread

AniChatt
Level 9
Hello guys, I am starting this thread for all Stix X470-F owners to discuss their overclock settings, issues etc. So that everyone get help quickly in a organised way. Installed my old 1600x in this mobo with 4011 bios and flareX 3200 with default docp and it works just fine without any issues so far. One thing to mention The board pushes 1.15v soc default docp profile. Is it normal seems a bit high for me as I have upgraded from B350-F gaming.
However a small issue I believe, the asus lighting control is not behaving normal. I mean just after login to windows it is taking a bit time to start (5min) before that if I try to on Lighting Control by clicking it, program crash window appears after few seconds. But when it starts on it's own then I can open asus lighting control. Anyone experiencing similar issue???
Also tried to use older version.
801 Views
2,438 REPLIES 2,438

Hey guys. I'm not a daily Strix user, and I need to pick your brains. My stepson and I built his first gaming PC and he's been using it for a couple of months.

It's a Strix X470-F with Ryzen 2600 and Toughpower Grand 750 RGB PSU. He says he was playing and the PC just shut off. He's fairly responsible but from my background in support and testing, I always suspect there's more the user didn't tell me, but that's all I know at the moment. The motherboard RGB lights come on, and orange power light on motherboard. But I'm not getting any QLED's and fans don't spin etc when I try to power it on. I tried reseating GPU and removing RAM sticks to test independently and nothing yet.

Any suggestions on next troubleshooting steps? Anyone seen this before?

CharliesTheMan wrote:
Hey guys. I'm not a daily Strix user, and I need to pick your brains. My stepson and I built his first gaming PC and he's been using it for a couple of months.

It's a Strix X470-F with Ryzen 2600 and Toughpower Grand 750 RGB PSU. He says he was playing and the PC just shut off. He's fairly responsible but from my background in support and testing, I always suspect there's more the user didn't tell me, but that's all I know at the moment. The motherboard RGB lights come on, and orange power light on motherboard. But I'm not getting any QLED's and fans don't spin etc when I try to power it on. I tried reseating GPU and removing RAM sticks to test independently and nothing yet.

Any suggestions on next troubleshooting steps? Anyone seen this before?


If Q-LED is not light up at all, it seems that you should start troubleshooting with removing everything from the motherboard, leaving only the CPU installed, trying to get any BIOS error w/ beep-code (like 'no GPU installed' or 'no memory found'). Try with resetting the BIOS, too.
If nothing is changed, then you know that the error have to come from a faulty PSU, a burnt motherboard or a burnt CPU, in specific order from the most possible to the less possible.
The same test can be done by removing also the CPU, making the motherboard to 'beep' about the missing CPU.

This kind of troubleshooting would get much easier if another working PSU or CPU is in hand, to make a series of the same tests by using these one instead of the 'possible' faulty ones.

timiman wrote:
If Q-LED is not light up at all, it seems that you should start troubleshooting with removing everything from the motherboard, leaving only the CPU installed, trying to get any BIOS error w/ beep-code (like 'no GPU installed' or 'no memory found'). Try with resetting the BIOS, too.
If nothing is changed, then you know that the error have to come from a faulty PSU, a burnt motherboard or a burnt CPU, in specific order from the most possible to the less possible.
The same test can be done by removing also the CPU, making the motherboard to 'beep' about the missing CPU.

This kind of troubleshooting would get much easier if another working PSU or CPU is in hand, to make a series of the same tests by using these one instead of the 'possible' faulty ones.


I really appreciate your input. It was really helpful in confirming some things I had assumed but feel better hearing from someone else, and gave me some new ideas. I do have parts in my rig to test with, I built his computer with that in mind. Everything we have is interchangeable. I went ahead and ordered a PSU tester from Amazon after seeing how easy that is now, I'm from the old school and had already dug out my jumper wires and multimeter, but the PSU tester will let me test the power supply with a lot less disassembly and headache. From that point if the PSU tests fine, I'll start stripping parts down on both rigs and swapping them. If it's the CPU, I think I'm just going to have to get myself a better CPU and hand mine down lol.

Last question, does this board have an onboard motherboard speaker? I've also got one of those on the way just in case it doesn't. There wasn't one packaged seperate in his box but I received it open box.

CharliesTheMan wrote:
I really appreciate your input. It was really helpful in confirming some things I had assumed but feel better hearing from someone else, and gave me some new ideas. I do have parts in my rig to test with, I built his computer with that in mind. Everything we have is interchangeable. I went ahead and ordered a PSU tester from Amazon after seeing how easy that is now, I'm from the old school and had already dug out my jumper wires and multimeter, but the PSU tester will let me test the power supply with a lot less disassembly and headache. From that point if the PSU tests fine, I'll start stripping parts down on both rigs and swapping them. If it's the CPU, I think I'm just going to have to get myself a better CPU and hand mine down lol.

Last question, does this board have an onboard motherboard speaker? I've also got one of those on the way just in case it doesn't. There wasn't one packaged seperate in his box but I received it open box.


Just a thought, usually the PSU works better (gives out real life readings on its separate voltage rails 5V/12V) under load and not with a PSU tester only. So, it would be better to test it with a multimeter (usually from a free 4-pin molex connector) when the issue occurs, in your case when the M/B is powered but not booting as it should.

This M/B does not have a onboard speaker. It uses the speaker of the case it is installed in. In the lower right of the M/B there is a bunch of pins labeled as 'PANEL'.
There should be a 4-pin connector starting from the upper most right corner, going with a 4-pin wire to the case.
I think you can find simple 4-pin mini-speaker in e-shops, too.

timiman wrote:
Just a thought, usually the PSU works better (gives out real life readings on its separate voltage rails 5V/12V) under load and not with a PSU tester only. So, it would be better to test it with a multimeter (usually from a free 4-pin molex connector) when the issue occurs, in your case when the M/B is powered but not booting as it should.

This M/B does not have a onboard speaker. It uses the speaker of the case it is installed in. In the lower right of the M/B there is a bunch of pins labeled as 'PANEL'.
There should be a 4-pin connector starting from the upper most right corner, going with a 4-pin wire to the case.
I think you can find simple 4-pin mini-speaker in e-shops, too.


I need some help.... I just upgraded my OS from W10 v1809 to v1909 and my desktop went black (no icons). I also dont have a taskbar or even a start menu or any of the other stuff that's supposed to be at the bottom. I was able to get my browsers and programs to run using Ctrl-Alt-Del. I tried some fixes none worked, and trying to use System Restore to get back to the earlier build of W10 didn't work either. Now when I open programs and then minimize them instead of going to the taskbar (which now doesn't exist) they minimize to a grey strip at the bottom of my screen. What happened here? I restarted multiple times and even though System Restore didn't work (it said it couldn't complete the action when trying to restore the registry) now I get my normal desktop and taskbar stuff 2/3 times, I still get the black desktop and no taskbar sometimes though and it's really annoying. Is there a permanent fix for this? There are no more windows updates available at the current time.

Sometimes when I restart PC all fans connected to this motherboard go 100% until Windows start and load fan software? Is it normal? If not, any way to fix it? It's not happening every time I restart the PC but sometimes. Hard to tell when and why as it's behaving like that more randomly.

i found a way for me to get back 100MHZ bclk.
i used the EZ Tuning Wizard in the bios. after following the steps of the wizard, i had to restart the computer.
Now i have back 100MHZ bus clock. Bevor that i had 99.8MHZ.

The only obvious change of the wizard made, i noticed, was the cpu multiplier. I changed the multiplier back and i still have that 100MHZ bclk.

Hope that helps anybody else, too.

I'm still on a bios way from early last year after many problems with my 2700x, temps, volts, fan speed etc. Had to keep reverting back and back again after bios updates, as the old one seemed to work.

But I have not checked in a good while, how are things looking bios wise concerning the 2700x, are the voltages sorted, 100% fan speed issue, and other things I can't remember, hows it looking?

Having such a hard time with this chip, i've had it since not long after it's release paired with an Asus x470-f gaming board. After early problems, 100% constant fan speed and many other issues I slowly trickled them down, but 1 problem always bugs me and that's my temps and cpu package power vs other peoples 2700x.

On PE level 2, even with an undervolt of -0.1 running a cinebench r15 results in temps of 75c+ and even more worringly cpu package power exceeds 185w, which would explain the high temperature, I'm also running an AIO cooler in the kraken x62, which just makes all this even more frustrating. If I add more undervolt, I don't post, if I default the vcore then the temps are even higher of course. If I set PE level 1 I get some good looking temps of 60c under a cinebench run, but my score goes down to 1700 just under, cpu package power is much lower too at 120-140w. Whenever I see others results, their temps are usually below 70c scoring close to 1900 and cpu package power of around 150w seems to be everyone elses norm. I've been through many bios's and it's always the same.

This video is old now, but still applies today. I'm begging anyone for some help on this, as it's really got to me now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIA3WiwvKPs

hankey wrote:
i found a way for me to get back 100MHZ bclk.
i used the EZ Tuning Wizard in the bios. after following the steps of the wizard, i had to restart the computer.
Now i have back 100MHZ bus clock. Bevor that i had 99.8MHZ.

The only obvious change of the wizard made, i noticed, was the cpu multiplier. I changed the multiplier back and i still have that 100MHZ bclk.

Hope that helps anybody else, too.


Who knew ha! Thanks!