Asus Strix X470-F Gaming owners thread

[AniChatt]

Hello guys, I am starting this thread for all Stix X470-F owners to discuss their overclock settings, issues etc. So that everyone get help quickly in a organised way. Installed my old 1600x in this mobo with 4011 bios and flareX 3200 with default docp and it works just fine without any issues so far. One thing to mention The board pushes 1.15v soc default docp profile. Is it normal seems a bit high for me as I have upgraded from B350-F gaming.
However a small issue I believe, the asus lighting control is not behaving normal. I mean just after login to windows it is taking a bit time to start (5min) before that if I try to on Lighting Control by clicking it, program crash window appears after few seconds. But when it starts on it's own then I can open asus lighting control. Anyone experiencing similar issue???
Also tried to use older version.

[Alex0915]

Thanks so I can still reformat to the old 150x version and then use updates to get the latest build? Or the system wont function at all with the original build?

[Alcolawl]

Alex0915 wrote:
Thanks so I can still reformat to the old 150x version and then use updates to get the latest build? Or the system wont function at all with the original build?

I'm not sure why you want to use an older build of Windows 10... Unless you're trying to circumvent some anti-piracy measures or something, which I'm not willing to help you with. Download the latest build from their website, throw it on a flash drive, and install on new build.

lorcav123 wrote:
Asus X470 strix
AMD R5 1600
2x8 gb 3200mhz corsair LPX vengeance (Hynix)

I need advice about CPU overclocking, it has been years since last time I overlcock. What option to change in BIOS? Just frequency and voltage set on manual settings? DOCP? What about option Procodt to 60?

After that setting memory to 3200 (3000mhz is also good, this is hynix I don`t know will it run on max frequency). Ryzen DRAM calculator? XMP? DOCP? is there any goal should my latency be lower than 75ns (AIDA64 test)? Current on 2133mhz is 105ns:

https://i.imgur.com/QzD5g0b.png

Don't do both the memory and CPU at the same time right out of the gate. Choose what you want to focus on first. CPU overclock on the first gen Ryzen CPUs was pretty straight forward. Raise clock multiplier, enter voltage, boot, stability test, repeat until you're happy. I got a pretty bad R5 1600 chip when I owned one, so I was only able to get to 3.75 GHz at like 1.284v. Anything beyond that, no matter the voltage, was unstable.

Then overclock the memory. DOCP will load the proper XMP profile automatically. Reboot, boot into a flash drive that has MemTest86 on it, test the memory for errors. Any errors at all (more than zero) means it's unstable. Go back into the BIOS, and lower the clock or loosen up the timings. Ryzen DRAM Calculator will be your friend here. You may find that 2933 MHz or 3000 MHz with CL13 or CL14 timings is better than 3200 MHz with CL15 or CL16 timings. I have a 3000 MHz CL15 kit that I was only recently able to get running at XMP rated speeds. Before hand I was running the kit at 2933 MHz and very tight 14-13-13-34 timings. The memory latency was actually lower when running at 2933 than at 3000.

Lastly, you may also find that a CPU overclock that you had stable with the memory at 2133 won't be stable at higher clocks. I personally haven't run into this issue, but it does happen. It's a balancing act.

[Alex0915]

No, I want to reformat with an older version of Windows 10 Home because that's the version I bought, I want to reformat with that and then go and download the latest updates and update to the latest build that way. The serial I have with the version I bought is valid because I bought that in a Best Buy store back in 2015 and never used it. Comes with the CoA and Booklet and all the other stuff. On the box it says Puerto Rico and I am in New York but it's in English and I bought it for 99.99 it has both the 32 bit and 64 bit versions on it on a USB 3 flash drive. Based on your instructions I bought a second USB flash drive in case I need to download a new build and I called Microsoft and was told I can download the latest version onto that drive and use the same serial. I think this is the same thing you were trying to tell me? But the specific thing I was trying to ask and this might make it more clear, can I download the latest build of Win 10 Home on the same rig (this motherboard and the Ryzen 2700X processor) after first installing my older build of Windows 10 Home first or do I need to download the latest build of Windows 10 Home from a different computer first and only install that on the new rig? I'm hoping the older build is stable enough for me to be able to have it installed initially and then go to the windows website and download the latest build onto the new USB 3 flash drive and then to install that latest build on top over the original build.

Basically I dont want to have to buy Windows 10 Home twice, I already bought it in 2015 and never used it as I was saving up the 2000 I needed for a new rig and now I want to install that build first before I update to the newest one.
When I called Microsoft they told me this shouldn't be an issue but I do need to decide between either first installing the old build I bought and then updating to the new one or downloading the new build from a different computer and putting that on another USB 3 flash drive and then using the key from the old build that I had bought back in 2015 and never used and installing that on the new rig without ever installing the old build first.

[TheCrusher6]

For those of you with unnecessarily high temps/voltages, check your Performance Enhancer setting in BIOS. Auto =/= Off.

I was racking my brain trying to figure out why my temps were so high when I threw an AIDA64 stress test at my CPU. As soon as I hit start, I'd immediately hit 80's on my Dark Rock Pro 3. I even tore my machine down and re-did the thermal paste to make sure I wasn't crazy. No change.

I started plugging through the BIOS options one by one until I found it.

It was ultimately the Performance Enhancer option. For some reason, this setting has an "Auto" selection which (on my system, anyway) seems to default to Level 3 or Level 4. As such, voltage and temps were ridiculous since this setting modifies those limits.

As soon as I flipped it to Default, everything was completely normal.

IMO, this setting shouldn't have an Auto option and Default should be renamed to 'Off' since it doesn't modify the stock AMD behavior. The rest of the BIOS seems to operate this way, I don't know why this one setting doesn't.

Hope this helps someone.

[Exposyn]

New bios just got posted:

ROG STRIX X470-F GAMING BIOS 4024
1. Improve system compatibility

[Alcolawl]

Exposyn wrote:

ROG STRIX X470-F GAMING BIOS 4024
1. Improve system compatibility

lol. In all seriousness, what does that even mean? Might skip this one and just continue waiting for the eventual AGESA 1006 version to drop a month from now.

[Alex0915]

Is flashing bios relatively risk free on this motherboard?

[dfg555]

Alex0915 wrote:
Is flashing bios relatively risk free on this motherboard?

Flashing your BIOS on any motherboard is generally risk free as long as you know what you're doing and don't get a power outage during the flash process.

[d3viant]

Exposyn wrote:
New bios just got posted:

ROG STRIX X470-F GAMING BIOS 4024
1. Improve system compatibility

Any details? Cripe this is about as vague as you can GET...

[Alex0915]

TheCrusher6 wrote:
For those of you with unnecessarily high temps/voltages, check your Performance Enhancer setting in BIOS. Auto =/= Off.

I was racking my brain trying to figure out why my temps were so high when I threw an AIDA64 stress test at my CPU. As soon as I hit start, I'd immediately hit 80's on my Dark Rock Pro 3. I even tore my machine down and re-did the thermal paste to make sure I wasn't crazy. No change.

I started plugging through the BIOS options one by one until I found it.

It was ultimately the Performance Enhancer option. For some reason, this setting has an "Auto" selection which (on my system, anyway) seems to default to Level 3 or Level 4. As such, voltage and temps were ridiculous since this setting modifies those limits.

As soon as I flipped it to Default, everything was completely normal.

IMO, this setting shouldn't have an Auto option and Default should be renamed to 'Off' since it doesn't modify the stock AMD behavior. The rest of the BIOS seems to operate this way, I don't know why this one setting doesn't.

Hope this helps someone.

Thanks this really helped me to lower my cpu fan speeds which were roaring around 6000 RPM and cut them in half. Should everything else also be taken off of AUTO? I'm using DDR4-2666 memory but instead of having it set to that in bios, I have it set to AUTO. Is an AUTO memory setting better?